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Since I blue print my race engines, there is a lot of fitting, and checking, assembly and disassembly before the final build.
For you who have Edelbrock aluminum heads and Edelbrock RPM intake manifolds, and using Comp Cams pushrods, here is what I found.
1. Pushrods need to be 9.200 length and some Comp Cams push rods are 9.300
which could be to long for your application.
2. Where the pushrod goes through the intake on cylinder #4 and #8 exhaust valve, the pushrod hole is not centered. On cylinder #4 the pushrod is close to the 4:30 position of the hole. On cylinder #8 it is at the 7:30 position. On an stock Edelbrock intake, you could ream out a few thousands for more clearance. Depending on your build, you might or might not have a clearance problem. With our build, we just have enough clearance, and that is a good thing, because after the port job on the intake, there is not enough material for any major reaming on the pushrod holes.
When I installed my Tunnelwedge on my 428 the first time, I found that with CJ heads, the valve spacing made the pushrods hit all kinds of places. Lucky I could take it to work and put it on the horizontal mill and open the holes. Since it was all stock, there was room to move around.
When you mix/match parts that didn't fit together originally you always have to "make it fit" somehow.
When I installed my Tunnelwedge on my 428 the first time, I found that with CJ heads, the valve spacing made the pushrods hit all kinds of places. Lucky I could take it to work and put it on the horizontal mill and open the holes. Since it was all stock, there was room to move around.
When you mix/match parts that didn't fit together originally you always have to "make it fit" somehow.
Yep,,, almost all race builds have there idiosyncrasies. Even the new roller rockers on our setup had to be shimmed for proper alignment with the valves in the Edelbrock heads. Actually I find that part fun when building engines. Making everything work together.
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