Where in the X is the door sensors. I've got one that randomly sticks open causing my interior lights to stay on, key bell, etc.. We run around and open/shut each door, it may or may not clear.. anyone know what kind of sensors and where located in the door ...or ideas?

Thanks, Steve in NH 2000 V10 limited 4x4

 

Just spray some WD-40 into all of the door latches on each one of the doors and rear hatch. This should solve your problem.

 

I know that light is a bother...
but the beltminder chime can be turned off...
I did on mine from instructions in the manual....
I WEAR my seat belt...
I don't need to be reminded of it EVERY time I get in the truck....

 

I replaced all four door lock actuators, and I believe the door ajar switches, are part of the door latch assembly to which the lock actutor is attached. I'm not sure WD-40 will help, but you'll need to get to the switch(es) by removing the door panel as described in other threads.

 

I went the WD40-route ... it works for awhile ... but when the water gets inside the switch itself, you have to pull the fuse (#14) & replace the door-ajar switch. It is attached to the latching mechanism inside the door. Not the easiest of jobs, but not the worst. My right-rear was changed a couple months ago, and just yesterday, the left-rear started acting up. Bought 3 new switches today (less than $6 each), one for the left-rear, and two spares for the front doors .... they will probably go in short order.

The most important part of this job is knowing exactly where to pry on the latch mechanism to release the switch itself. Look it up in the factory service manual (a very wise investment, less than $300 for both volumes & the wiring diagrams ... about 2,500 pages all told), or send me an e-mail and I can reply with an image of that particular operation.

 

Off to get wd40.. however prepared to look into unit change outs if required... thanks again great site.. we're not alone anymore..

 

the wd-40 works great, i listed a thread on here in june for my x, instant cure, according to the local ford garage this happens all 'em eventually and wd has fixed em all, let us know

 

I have had the same issue with both rear doors as well as the rear tailgate... the first switch I took it to ford as I could not find the switches either. they are part of the door lock mech and the door panel has to be removed - the 1st door cost me 196.00 to fix - i have done the rest myself- The tail gate is a breeze there are swithches for both tail gate doors as well as the upper hatch. These are a breeze to repair. the challange becomes what switch is it - you need a scanner to tell you what one. At this point i agree with others - forget the WD40 - that is not going to even get there effectively without door panel removal- then if you have done this spend the 6 bucks or so and replace the switch. Also spend the bucks for the shop manual about 3000 pages - I found them for 150.00 plus shipping through the internet. If your are mechanically inclined it will be well worth the investment. I have removed a door switch ( the other rear door) and cleaned it up to work but then deceided just to replace it since the door panel was off. While you are in there replace the door power lock solinoid as well - it too will soon be defective- Ford has a problem with these as well especiall in hot weather.

 

I sprayed the wd40 well on all locks and it didn't help so... into surgery we go.. your right which one becomes a hunt.. lottery or a simple guess.. rear first, it sounds easier. Steve

 

There are 6 sensors in the truck. One in each of the front 4 door latches, and one in each of the 2 tailgate latches. The sensors are separate from the latch, and replaceable. Each of the front door sensors act as separate inputs to the GEM module, the rear door sensors are in parallel as a single input, and the tailgate sensors are in parallel as a single input.

In my truck the tailgate sensors give a signal from time to time, especially if the truck sits in the sun. I have yet to fix the problem. I already removed the tailgate sensors and cleaned them, but I still have the problem.

To isolate the defective switch you can unhook the sensors and this will remove the input to the GEM. The input is a contact closure which sends a ground signal to the GEM.

Good luck.

 

on a somewhat related note, is there anyway to overide the dinging sound that the truck give me when i have the door open and the key turned back? Sometimes its nice to listen to music and catch the full breeze.

 

Well, if you really wanted to, you could determine which wires to splice into and install a series of connect or disconnect switches ... a bank of them ... one switch for each door. Or determine which wire activates the chime and install a disconnect feature.

Just talking off the top of my head ... er, make that typing off the tips of my fingers.

 

the best way to determine how to cut off the switches etc is buy a shop manual - you then will understand what circuits and switches are involved. You will need this $150.00 manual to fix the various common things that go wrong with the X. You will earn the manual back on the 1st repair- Do not buy the Haynes manual - it is not specific enough to work on much. i have one of these manuals also and it is basically worthless.

 

pyro pig goto superduty section and then to faq topic at top of section ... tells how to turn of seatbelt buzzer and door buzzer, both are 1 minute fixes ... have done both to mine and am doing them to all my freinds also

 

I believe he's refering to the key minder chime, not the seat belt minder.

There are posts somewhere to correct this.... partially. It involves removing the ignition switch assembly and insulating off a contact. This is a partial fix in that it will stop the chime when the switch is in the ON position, but will still chime when in the ACC position.

I did the fix myself and it works well as long as you don't mind having your ignition in the ON position.

Hope this helps.

Joe