Which up pipes?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
I did the Dorman uppipes recently.
Here are some pics and tips and stuff you might find helpful
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ng-stupid.html
Here are some pics and tips and stuff you might find helpful
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ng-stupid.html
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: Metro/Brainerd, MN
How long did it take you guys to do this? I've got some mild soot, but didn't think it was as big of an issue as it might be.
I'll get a little coal at WOT - more of a black haze. Truck pulls good and gets 15mpg city.
I'll get a little coal at WOT - more of a black haze. Truck pulls good and gets 15mpg city.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 286
Likes: 0
From: Northern Virginia
The install wasn't too bad for since I already had the turbo out for a rebuild, among several other things I was working on at the same time. The worst part for me was removing the passengers side connection to the exhaust manifold. I did that side first and just broke the bolts off for removal. I assumed that would be easiest since they are through bolted and the kit came with new bolts. Boy was that mistake, the bolt shank that was seized in the manifold was a bear to remove partly due the limited working space, not to mention the 15 years of rust. Was hard to imagine the smooth shank of the bolt could get that stuck with no threads. What worked on the other side was to spray them down with plenty of Kroil and put a wrench on both the nut and bolt to work them back and forth in the same direction to break the rust bond before breaking them off. Worked like a charm.
I used the Dorman kit as well and had no issues with it.
I used the Dorman kit as well and had no issues with it.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,348
Likes: 5,941
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
If your truck lived in the south all of its life like mine did and you remove the turbo, the job is very straight forward and easy to do. If it lived in the north and you try to leave the turbo, pack a lunch and a six pack at least because you will be there a while.
The worst part of the entire job is lining the collector up to the turbo properly, then securing the clamp down. I used a bungee cord to hold the collector in place and then wrestled the clamp into place.
The worst part of the entire job is lining the collector up to the turbo properly, then securing the clamp down. I used a bungee cord to hold the collector in place and then wrestled the clamp into place.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,321
Likes: 584
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
There's conflicting information. In the description on Dorman's web site it says this:
But under Specifications, it says this:
More like a complete kit than a single part, many of our Turbocharger Up Pipes include gaskets and hardware for a complete installation. Tthis part is a direct replacement - exact fit adds efficiency and convenience.
- Stainless tubular construction protects against warping or cracking
- Precise construction for long-lasting performance
- Vehicle try-on testing has been conducted to ensure trouble-free performance
- A rigorous quality inspection has been undertaken to ensure high quality
<table><tbody><tr><td class="spec-title">Color/Finish: </td><td>Natural</td></tr><tr><td class="spec-title">Gasket or Seal Included: </td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><td class="spec-title">Inlet Inside Diameter (in): </td><td>1.875 In.</td></tr><tr><td class="spec-title">Inlet Outside Diameter (in): </td><td>2 In.</td></tr><tr><td class="spec-title">Inlet Quantity: </td><td>2</td></tr><tr><td class="spec-title">Item Grade: </td><td>Standard Replacement</td></tr><tr><td class="spec-title">Material: </td><td>Steel Tubing With Cast Iron Y-connector</td></tr><tr><td class="spec-title">Outlet Inside Diameter (in): </td><td>3.565 In.</td></tr><tr><td class="spec-title">Outlet Outside Diameter (in): </td><td>3.125 In.</td></tr><tr><td class="spec-title">Outlet Quantity: </td><td>1</td></tr><tr><td class="spec-title">Package Contents: </td><td>2 Turbo Up Pipes, 1 Y-connector, 4 Flanges, 2 Gaskets, 8 Bolts, 4 Nuts</td></tr><tr><td class="spec-title">Strap Hanger Included: </td><td>No</td></tr><tr><td class="spec-title">Welding Required: </td><td>No</td></tr></tbody></table>
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,802
Likes: 1,333
From: Elk Grove, CA
That conflicting info regarding the materials had me scratching my head too. So back in November I sent Dorman an email, Jim S from tech services said the tubes are 409 stainless. Took their word for it but once the pipes arrived I tried a test I know; I swabbed a pipe with lemon juice and did not get the stain/color change typical of mild steel. Not a super conclusive test, of course. Another test would be hit it with a grinding wheel; stainless will spark much less than mild steel. Not really inclined to hit mine with a grinding wheel. Even less conclusive is sticking a magnet on there. Only the higher grades of stainless with more nickel and chrome content are truly non-magnetic. A magnet sticks to the stock stainless exhaust on our trucks to about the same degree as the Dorman pipes.
Given all that I'm confident the pipe is stainless. If the Dormans were mild steel I'd pick the IH in a heartbeat, but given same materials and adequate construction... price wins.
Given all that I'm confident the pipe is stainless. If the Dormans were mild steel I'd pick the IH in a heartbeat, but given same materials and adequate construction... price wins.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
If you check out my thread linked earlier, scroll through the pics. Installs are around post #63.
I picked up almost 2 PSI of boost across the board. That's over 10%!
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: Metro/Brainerd, MN
That conflicting info regarding the materials had me scratching my head too. So back in November I sent Dorman an email, Jim S from tech services said the tubes are 409 stainless. Took their word for it but once the pipes arrived I tried a test I know; I swabbed a pipe with lemon juice and did not get the stain/color change typical of mild steel. Not a super conclusive test, of course. Another test would be hit it with a grinding wheel; stainless will spark much less than mild steel. Not really inclined to hit mine with a grinding wheel. Even less conclusive is sticking a magnet on there. Only the higher grades of stainless with more nickel and chrome content are truly non-magnetic. A magnet sticks to the stock stainless exhaust on our trucks to about the same degree as the Dorman pipes.
Given all that I'm confident the pipe is stainless. If the Dormans were mild steel I'd pick the IH in a heartbeat, but given same materials and adequate construction... price wins.
Given all that I'm confident the pipe is stainless. If the Dormans were mild steel I'd pick the IH in a heartbeat, but given same materials and adequate construction... price wins.
I'll take a pic of my sooty up pipe and see what you guys think.
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