I am replacing the turbo on my 2005 f350 6.0. I have the passenger side mounting bolt and the rear mounting bolt out, but cannot get the driver side bolt to budge. I have sprayed it with WD40 and PB Blaster and tried a breaker bar. No luck breaking it loose. I am afraid I might round off the head even though I am using a 6 point socket. Any suggestions?

Randy

 

Have you tried heating the bolt up? Be careful not to start any fluids on fire while trying.

 

Try tightening before loosening?

Heat the bolt and pedestal somewhat, then flip over a can of compressed air and spray the liquid on just the bolt? Try freeze off?


Do you have a handheld impact, the sharper impulse of the impact hit might break it loose?
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-...rdless/2450-22

I'm sure I have more old hackneyed farm methods, but not any I'd want to do in the engine bay of a 6.0.

 

My pick is Kroil or the trans fluid and acetone mix.

Heat will help a lot. Use the penetrating oil to cool
but be ready for flair-ups when spraying a hot part.

6 point socket is the only way to go. Also if you use an
impact use the shortest extension or none if you can.
They should also be 1/2 and impact rated. The larger size
will transmit the torque better to the bolt. You want as little
slop in between the gun and the bolt. Slop eats up applied torque.

When you put it back together use the turbo installation kit
with new bolts and some anti-size on the threads. You will
thank yourself the next time you have to pull it.

Good luck.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Don't forget to put anti-sieze on it when re- assembling

 

First off than you to all of you for your responses and suggestions. I considered each suggestion and decided to start with the least dangerous. I was going to use Kroil, but in searching for a retailer, I came across a discussion on a car forum where they were discussing breaking loose frozen cage nuts. The suggestion by the commenters was to use Kriol, but one of the commenters said that while he had used Kroil and found it to be very good, he had also used BG In-Forcer penetrating oil and found it to be better. I search for a BG retailer only to find out they do not sell to the general public. They only sell to shops like car dealerships. I contacted to local BG distributor and he sent me to my local Ford dealer. I was leery about buying from the dealership thinking it would be really expensive, but a large aerosol can was $8.00. I sprayed in on the bolt and tapped the bolt with a hammer a couple of time and let it sit for a couple of minutes. I then put my socket on the bolt and used a breaker bar. The bolt came loose. The new turbo is nearly installed and I will hopefully be back on the road tomorrow. Here is a link for the BG In-Forcer. https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/specialty/bg-in-force/

Thanks again for your help.

Randy

 

Very good to hear.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

PB Blaster is awesome for future seized bolts

 

Have a look at this report on penetrating oils,
Penetrating oil comparisons - The Garage Journal Board



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Sean, you are right on with the ATF & Acetone, I have used it myself and it works great. FYI to everyone, the mixture does not mix well together so be aware you must keep shaking the mixture to keep it from separating.
Ed

 

The not staying mixed is interesting. You would think a solvent would
mix well with what is basically a hydraulic oil.

What way do you use to apply it?


Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Sean, sorry I have been out working on my 7.3 today. I use an O'reily Oil can with a flex spout.


As for the ATF & Acetone mixing, as seen here I mixed 2ozs Actone & ATF and stirred very well, after on minute I took this pic.




I am working on a better delivery system that will not let the Acetone evaporate, one of those I will get to it soon projects.
I hope this helps everyone.
Ed

 

The original, recipe, I believe, for home brew penetrant made with acetone was called "Ed's Red" and was derived from "Hatcher's original Frankford Arsenal No. 18 formula" used 1 part ATF, 1 part kerosene, 1 part turpentine (later replaced with mineral spirits) and 1 part acetone. It was originally used as a gun cleaner and the acetone was added to be a fast acting very aggressive caked powder solvent. I have used this for 30 years and have not found a better penetrant. I generally use the "newer" recipe of 1:1 ATF and acetone and can't tell any difference as a penetrant. It does however make a better bore cleaner with the original recipe. Also some times after using the 1:1 formula and breaking the fastener loose, the full formula adds some lube making further removal easier, yes I keep both on hand.