Blinker Issue
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Walla Walla, WA
Blinker Issue
Hey guys, been a while. I got a blinker problem that's been really bugging me and I can't figure it out. So both my blinkers work normally during the day, other than the fact that the right blinker doesn't return because the plastic piece in the steering column is broken but when I pull the **** for the lights to come on, the right blinker won't work at all. The left works perfectly fine but for some reason the other won't? Any ideas? Thanks in advanced!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
Offhand I would say a bad ground, followed by a related problem, a bad socket. Could conceivably be a bad bulb - if you start by cleaning all the bulb grounds, replace the bulb that decides not to work, and test the actual sockets to make sure the hots are actually hot and the grounds are actually grounding in the socket - if you haven't cured it by then, who knows.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Bad grounds etc. Headlights pull lots of juice. Corroded, loose, or missing connections means the headlights are pulling it through the turn signal path. Automakers treat copper wire as if it's a semi-precious metal and use the bare minimum they can get away with and no more, and use the steel frame and radiator support, firewall etc for the return path. It sort of works OK when new. Common problem with old iron. Restored rigs often have a similar problem, except with thick layers of paint where we want to see clean, bare steel.
It needs to be remedied though because it's guaranteed the rest of the components are getting shortchanged too - ignition, heater blower etc. High resistance in the circuit positively roasts engine starters, solenoids, switches, alternators, voltage regulators etc. $$$
Start with all new starter, battery, and grounding cables. Grind down to bright shiny metal and tighten securely. The older trucks don't have 50 gazillion wires/harness, so they can be cleaned up in an afternoon. The rubber SAE and block connectors running through the firewall can be a big source of trouble too. A wire bristle brush and some kerosene or diesel will clean these up.
It pays to do this.
It needs to be remedied though because it's guaranteed the rest of the components are getting shortchanged too - ignition, heater blower etc. High resistance in the circuit positively roasts engine starters, solenoids, switches, alternators, voltage regulators etc. $$$
Start with all new starter, battery, and grounding cables. Grind down to bright shiny metal and tighten securely. The older trucks don't have 50 gazillion wires/harness, so they can be cleaned up in an afternoon. The rubber SAE and block connectors running through the firewall can be a big source of trouble too. A wire bristle brush and some kerosene or diesel will clean these up.
It pays to do this.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Seattle
I had slow blinkers with headlights on or off and originally had blinkers that wouldn't work with headlights on as well. Even with grounds fixed up, they were problematic. Replaced the relays and no big improvement. Finally, my headlight switch was going bad (dash lights and parking lights would turn on and off randomly) and I replaced it with a new one. Not only did it solve my current problem with the dash/parking lights, but suddenly my blinkers went at normal speed both with the headlights on and with them off. I don't know if the wiring runs through the switch with the lights on or off, but I do know that the switch was apparently the sole cause of my blinker problems.
May be worth the $10 or so that a new headlight switch costs to see if it's the same for you.
May be worth the $10 or so that a new headlight switch costs to see if it's the same for you.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Well it all kinda ties together, doesn't it? Shiny electrical connections = Happy Electrons.
If the switch turned out to be the case armed with the correct part # I'd seek out only a good NOS replacement light switch that's maybe still sitting on a local shelf somewhere or, that auction site. Tons were made and still available.
Skip anything electrical made overseas in the last 25 years. The good stuff won't cost anymore than the counterfeit junk. I've found the Standard brand replacement parts from the 60s and 70s to be good stuff, too.
Switches and breakers (headlights don't use fuses) do wear out and it's good practice to replace before them before they cause trouble.
If the switch turned out to be the case armed with the correct part # I'd seek out only a good NOS replacement light switch that's maybe still sitting on a local shelf somewhere or, that auction site. Tons were made and still available.
Skip anything electrical made overseas in the last 25 years. The good stuff won't cost anymore than the counterfeit junk. I've found the Standard brand replacement parts from the 60s and 70s to be good stuff, too.
Switches and breakers (headlights don't use fuses) do wear out and it's good practice to replace before them before they cause trouble.
New User
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
My truck was doing the exact same thing last week. It ended up being a bad ground. I pulled the tail light and disassembled and cleaned the ground right behind the tail light. It was all fixed in less than 5 minutes!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 765
Likes: 13
From: Edmond, OK
Blinker fluid has likely gotten old and needs replaced. They came out with a synthetic blinker fluid that has been getting raves on all the JDM import forums in use with their LED bulbs. My truck isn't up an running quite yet, so I haven't had the opportunity to test it and to be quite honest, I haven't heard of anyone using it in something as quite as old as our trucks. Anyways, it's supposed to be backwards compatible and I even think it won a best new product award of some type at SEMA a couple years ago.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 794
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From: between lost and found
you HAVE to read the fine print Tedster....
it IS NOT illegal in Oregon to use blinker fluid
if he re-fills and re-places it on the second tuesday of next week and uses a light where the bulbs have been bent with a left handed florescent tube bender
it IS NOT illegal in Oregon to use blinker fluid
if he re-fills and re-places it on the second tuesday of next week and uses a light where the bulbs have been bent with a left handed florescent tube bender
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,769
Likes: 7
From: O-O-O-Oreilly's
Since installing my prefamulated amulator and novortrunions, I haven't needed blinker fluid, even with a partially worn reciprocating dinglearm.
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