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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Ballast Resistor??

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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 06:49 PM
  #16  
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Bill - To paraphrase one of your favorite Okies, I'll I know is what I read in the ... EVTM.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 03:43 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Bill - To paraphrase one of your favorite Okies, I'll I know is what I read in the ... EVTM.
"My relatives didn't come over on the Mayflower, but they met the boat." -Will Rogers
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 03:56 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
"My relatives didn't come over on the Mayflower, but they met the boat." -Will Rogers
Bingo!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 04:41 PM
  #19  
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Here's a couple pics of what I have as far as ignition...and the ballast...








 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 06:18 PM
  #20  
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The good news is it looks like you have most, if not all, of a DS-II conversion. That includes the blue-grommeted ignition module and what looks to be the right coil, although I can't be sure of that. However, given the terribly shoddy wiring job with wire nuts and electrical tape connecting unknown wires into the ignition, there is no way for us to tell how it is wired. You need to follow the wires that connect to the coil and tell us where they go.

And, you still need to determine whether or not the supply wiring to the module is using the ballast wire. There are two ways to do that. The best is to do the testing discussed earlier. But, if you don't have a volt meter you can:
  • Ignition module: Follow the red wire from the module to the first connector and ensure it connects to the white/light blue wire. Then follow that wire back and make sure it connects to the red/light green wire - the resistance wire.
  • Coil: The battery terminal of the coil should have a red/light green wire on it. You can see that it does, but someone has spliced it to a much smaller wire. Follow that to see if it ultimately connects to the original red/light green wire.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 07:40 PM
  #21  
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I thought they were pink and say in all caps: RESISTOR WIRE DO NOT CUT OR SPLICE:

 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 08:19 PM
  #22  
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Some may, but I posted this from Bill's 1986 EVTM on the previous page:



And Bill posted this:
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
It came with this puppy originally...

D7AZ-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-213) / Obsolete ~ Available NOS & from auto parts stores.

49" long / Color coded red with green stripes / 1.30/1.40 ohms resistance / #16 gauge wire.

1977/89: F100/350, Bronco, Econoline & misc. Passenger Cars.

Pic: The Doubting Thomas' can scroll down to 12250
Two out of three say red with green stripes, although the exact value is in question.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 08:49 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Two out of three say red with green stripes, although the exact value is in question.
But the picture disputes that.

What does your 1981 EVTM say? Maybe this aspect changed with the implementation of EFI....
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 08:55 PM
  #24  
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The 1981 agrees with the 1986: (Sure is nice to have all this documentation available immediately. )

 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 09:02 PM
  #25  
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I forget about that online location of documentation.

Ya know, I took my own picture of that resistor wire at one time but I'm guessing it's no longer on my ex-picture hosting service, and I'm too lazy to go upstairs to my main computer and search for the original.

So, I will just leave it at this; it may be pink, it may not be (not that the documentation has ever been known to be wrong ).
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 09:28 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
I forget about that online location of documentation.

Ya know, I took my own picture of that resistor wire at one time but I'm guessing it's no longer on my ex-picture hosting service, and I'm too lazy to go upstairs to my main computer and search for the original.

So, I will just leave it at this; it may be pink, it may not be (not that the documentation has ever been known to be wrong ).
Three points: First, I'm lazy and wouldn't go to the shop to get something, but since it is online, it is easy.

Second, I have thousands of pics of truck stuff on my computer, and hundreds on FTE, but the ones I need are going on the web site and I can find them.

Last, you think the documentation might be wrong???? See what I put on my web site about 5:00 today here: Ground Wires - Gary's Garagemahal - with the red added for your ease of viewing:


 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 01:24 AM
  #27  
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I don't remember the exact details and am way too lazy to go upstairs and look them up, but I came across something similar in the factory wiring diagrams (not EVTM) pertaining to the stereo/radio wiring - I don't remember exactly what it said but it showed either the left channel being shorted to the right, or, most likely, they were trying to show the front & rear speaker circuitry gets wired together because trucks have only two speakers. I had to study it to see what it was saying and even had Ralph look at it, I couldn't believe such a major mistake like that could make it to print but it did.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 07:33 AM
  #28  
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Yes, it is amazing what has made it to print. I've gone to correcting things in my copy of the parts catalog. Perhaps I should do that on the two versions of the EVTM. Think I will on this one this afternoon.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 10:30 AM
  #29  
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So, to clean this thing up, is it feasible to weed out the required wires (ignition, fuel pump, lights, etc) from the old factory harness at the firewall and make a new harness with the necessary wiring for the DSII conversion? I still need to verify the resistance and determine if that extra ballast is needed. I have access to connectors, wire and shrink tubing,etc through what I do for a living so I feel confident with that part, but would a pre EFI harness prove any benefit?

The poorly routed wiring and red wire nuts are about to drive me nuts!
 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 10:30 PM
  #30  
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Yes. If it was me I'd pull the tape and tubing off the existing wiring to find out what I have. It may be that you aren't far from fixing it, so I wouldn't go to the trouble of making a whole new harness in that case. On the other hand, you may find so many hacks that it is easier to start over. So, pull the covers off to see what you have and then make your decision.
 
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