Door Insulation
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
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From: Atlanta, GA
Door Insulation
I am in the process of sound-insulating my 1978 Ford F-250. I have done the floors and the back of the cab. Now it is time to do the doors and the border between the cab and the engine.
For the doors, I am about to buy a new weatherstripping kit from LMC. Also have bought the felt interior door insulation. Does anyone have any recommendations for additional sound insulation in the area where the edge of the door meets the cab? I am wondering if I can add an extra rubber strip to make it more sound-insulated.
As far as the border between the cab and the engine, I am at a loss. I am not a good enough mechanic to take the engine out and install soundproofing on the engine side. As far as removing the dash goes, I am pretty intimidated by the prospect of removing the dash, due to all the screws and moving parts. Does anybody have a step by step guide for removing the dash just enough to install sound insulation in this area?
Thanks for your advice. This forum has been a great help to me....
Dave
For the doors, I am about to buy a new weatherstripping kit from LMC. Also have bought the felt interior door insulation. Does anyone have any recommendations for additional sound insulation in the area where the edge of the door meets the cab? I am wondering if I can add an extra rubber strip to make it more sound-insulated.
As far as the border between the cab and the engine, I am at a loss. I am not a good enough mechanic to take the engine out and install soundproofing on the engine side. As far as removing the dash goes, I am pretty intimidated by the prospect of removing the dash, due to all the screws and moving parts. Does anybody have a step by step guide for removing the dash just enough to install sound insulation in this area?
Thanks for your advice. This forum has been a great help to me....
Dave
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,247
Likes: 5,815
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Have you dropped the head liner and double that up if, it has any at all still hooked to the underside of the roof? What about pulling the door panels and doing the back side of the doors? And then redo the back side of the door panel with better stuff?
If you have a none a/c truck you can pull you heater/box real easy to get behind it. Remember to replace you heater core while you are at it. Are you planning on covering up your kick panels with something?
If you look at these pics I really think you can get up under the dash and get it sound proofed without removing the dash.
If you have a none a/c truck you can pull you heater/box real easy to get behind it. Remember to replace you heater core while you are at it. Are you planning on covering up your kick panels with something?
If you look at these pics I really think you can get up under the dash and get it sound proofed without removing the dash.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 34
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From: Johnston, Iowa
I just did the door insulation, weather strips, and window surround/dew wipes on mine. Dramatic difference in how much it kills the "tinny" sound of the door closing.
As for additional seals around the door, see how the new seals do first. Mine are extremely tight fitting.
I used black silicon (maybe not the best, but it worked) and did the job myself. I learned after doing the first one that disposable gloves are a must, a second set of hands would have been a huge help, and my temper is a bit better than it used to be.
As soon as wiring is done and I can button the dash back up, I'll hit the floors with the sound insulation and new carpet. PO(S) used the roll in bedliner crap...poorly.
As for additional seals around the door, see how the new seals do first. Mine are extremely tight fitting.
I used black silicon (maybe not the best, but it worked) and did the job myself. I learned after doing the first one that disposable gloves are a must, a second set of hands would have been a huge help, and my temper is a bit better than it used to be.
As soon as wiring is done and I can button the dash back up, I'll hit the floors with the sound insulation and new carpet. PO(S) used the roll in bedliner crap...poorly.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 185
Likes: 3
From: Fargo
I suspect the roof insulation in my truck has evolved into a mouse nest.
And my doors sound like somebody hammering on a 50 gallon drum when they get slammed.
what is the recommended best insulation for these areas?
Peel and stick? (dynamat or home depot roofing material?)
Rubberized undercoating?
DIY truck bedliner?
Lizardskin?
Have any of these proven more or less effective long term?
And my doors sound like somebody hammering on a 50 gallon drum when they get slammed.
what is the recommended best insulation for these areas?
Peel and stick? (dynamat or home depot roofing material?)
Rubberized undercoating?
DIY truck bedliner?
Lizardskin?
Have any of these proven more or less effective long term?
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,247
Likes: 5,815
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
The advanced search will turn up alot of info.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...sound+proofing
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...sound+proofing
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...sound+proofing
Since we all have had to deal with this. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...sound+proofing
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...sound+proofing
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...sound+proofing
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...sound+proofing
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...sound+proofing
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...sound+proofing
Since we all have had to deal with this. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...sound+proofing
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...sound+proofing
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...sound+proofing
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 34
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From: Johnston, Iowa
Bought from Jeff's BG. $27. They drew a pattern for the speaker cutout, which I thought was very helpful.
The headliner was already partially completed. No insulation above it (yet). Thought it looked pretty cool, so I left it.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,247
Likes: 5,815
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2015
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I just put in the '80-'96 door weatherstripping in my '79 and would highly recommend it. No glue! It does take a little work to get your sill plates to lay flat, but still worth it.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Cental Illinois
did your doors start to pop when opened after using this weatherstripping?
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 47
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Honestly, it's not roadworthy yet so I haven't used the doors a lot. Right now it takes a little to get them shut all the way, but they seem to be getting better the more time goes by. Haven't noticed a pop when opening. My hinges and striker are pretty worn though.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 622
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix, AZ
I put a sheet of Dynamat on the inside of the door and under the door panel and now when I close the door it has a nice soild sound to it. I also covered back cab behind the seat and put it behind dash wear the factory pad did not cover. It made a big difference in the noise in the cab.
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