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Hi, just wondering if anyone has put any kind of insulation/sound deadener into the doors of their truck to make it sound more solid/reduce road noise. What type of material works best?
I put Dynamat (or some generic) in my doors and it did help some. It's a self stick foil faced product. I did the floors and back of the cab at the same time. Since I am half deaf I'm not sure how much it helped but when closing a door the truck sounds more solid.
Keep clear of the weep holes in the bottom of the door so moisture can escape. I used a heat gun to soften the material so it would bond better
A few years ago I used an asphalt-based self-stick sound deadener which was available from J.C. Whitney...don't know if its still available. Not as good as Dynamat, but a lot less expensive if you're trying to minimize cost. Either option makes a huge difference inside and reduces the drum sound of the doors.
....just checked, I don't see the house brand on the JC Whitney website, but it looked like the hushmat ultra black....only was about half the price.
Used 12"x12" self stickin sheets of asphalt based sound deadener in door panels and within relatively short period of time they began to peel and collect at the bottom of the door. Not sure if it was because of the drastic difference cold winter vs hot summers that presented a problem with the material adhering??
I used a similar product to dynamat from Eastwood products - quite a bit less in cost (especially when on sale). These products are not petroleum base and don't give off fumes, and designed for high temps. but cost more than aluminum coated tar roofing found at Home depot that does about the same for sound -but can make your truck smell when it gets real hot (as it does here in Florida)and get real pliable in the sun. It worked -- huge difference. Not necessary to cover all the surface, you want strips or pieces to remove the drum effect I used it on the interior side. Then placed an insulated (foam) foil faced product on the door for heat, but I don't think it helps that much since the inside of the truck is about the same as the outside.
btw, a few strips at the floor pans are the most effective for sound, and any flat "tin" drum area.
I didn't have the same problems that Dave did with his material. It adhered well in the doors, floors and under the dash...and it gets darn hot here in Bakersfield. No odor either...so probably difference in materials...shop around.
What material did you use resonatuer? I'm getting ready to do my whole cab and would like to know if there are any cheaper items out there that perform.
At the time it was the "house brand" from JC Whitney, but I went to their website and didn't find it. I'm sure it was made by someone else and maybe its in their paper catalog...or no longer under their name. It looked the same as the Hushmat Ultra Black. Costwise, I'm sure it was cheaper than what they show now. Regarding Dave's commentary on peeling...make sure the surface is dust free and clean. I used wax/grease remover, acetone or lacquer thinner and press the sheets on with a small roller, like used for wallpaper joints. You'll get a lot more sound deadening than with the widely available metallic-coated bubble sheets.
Jumping on an older thread here...I had several sheets of sound insulation left over (I lined the doors and floors of my other classic, a 1971 Triumph TR6, where it made a huge difference) with Noico brand from Amazon.com noise insulation, so I inserted a sheet in each door, and a half-sheet on the inside of the door inspection panels (Or whatever they are called). Made a substantial difference, dampening the "clang" of the door, into more of a dull thud.
I have a couple of sheets remaining, and am going to do the roof above the headlining. I'm hopeful this will damp out road noise and other vibrations, and allow me to listen to the original AM radio in all its glory.
Just thought I'd share, in case anyone was considering this stuff.
By the way - I've had this stuff in my TR6 for 3 years, and even through summers in the South, it does not peel, drip, ooze, or smell, before anyone brings that up...;-)
All: Has anyone had success with door insulation? Are placing it on the inside face of the outer door skin? If so, what size piece, cover the whole door skin or ?
I know to avoid blocking the weep holes in the bottom, but are there any other areas to avoid covering, so as not block any of the window raising/lowering mechanism?
Thanks for the suggestions.
Jeff
I didn’t have any issues with the window mechanism. I covered as much of the interior of the door as I could reach, including the inside surface of the door skin and the outward facing surfaces of the inside panel. As well, I covered the inspection plate cover. The doors sound extremely solid when they close and, with the exception of some wind noise around the side windows and vent windows, the cab is very quiet. I have gotten compliments on how the doors sound when closing....weird, but some people notice that. I used dynamat, and glad that I did. A little more expense but I didn’t want it to separate once everything was assembled....especially on the cab roof. It sticks extremely well.
Hey Jeff - I have not used an insulation product in mine yet but my one white 4x4 must have some dealer applied undercoating inside of the doors. Just a small area - not the entire inside of the door by any stretch - it sounds very solid when I close those doors and this truck is overall very quiet road noise-wise considering it is a 4x4.
I can probably take a picture of what they did if you'd like.
Another member here, 1965GTFB, Ted, swears by FatMat, says it is the equal of Dynamat and far more economical. He has used both, and if you p.m. him, he’ll tell you why.
I used one of the expensive brands and used contact cement on both surfaces even though the material was adhesive backed. I cut a piece as large as I could handle, pressed it on and used a brayer later. It is so thin it will not interfere with anything. I used the same technique on the roof panel.
Eric
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