I bought my first Ford about a month ago (2005 ccsb xlt 135,000mi). I researched and read until I felt comfortable with the purchase.

A week or so ago I ordered an edge cts to monitor temps.
It was obvious from a day of driving my coolant temps were too low. I'd average huge deltas (20-40). My eot never >210 on a hot socal day. It would take forever for my ect to reach 170-180 and would sit at that number.

Today I picked up a new oem thermostat (RT1169 MC) and began to install. When I removed my old stat, it was gone. I pulled the housing out and nothing was there. I obviously couldn't see or reach anything so I know i've got stat parts floating around somewhere unfortunately.

I finished installing new stat, topped off coolant, and started it up no problems. I let it idle for awhile and shut her down. About 20-30 min later I jumped in to test it out and run some errands. My temps were ect 195 eot 199 and was glad that the numbers evened out and all was good. On my way home the delta spread again anywhere from 13-18 max and I noticed white smoke from the pipe.

I limped home (2 mi away) and checked the reservoir, it was lower but not empty so I filled it up a bit again and let it run. More smoke more smoke. Doesn't smell sweet, definitely white so it has to be coolant..?

The upper radiator hose was leaking a bit so I pulled it and readjusted the hose clamp which stopped the leak. It's not leaking (that I can tell) where it connects to the housing. The smoke would go anywhere from light whisps to thicker white. Sounds fine, runs fine, no loss of power, no cels no idiot lights nothing. All my numbers on my cts are norm.

I can't get it to a shop until monday and as of right now it's my only means of transportation. So I ask for advice.

It's in the driveway, with no intentions of moving it until monday to the shop closest to me.

First thought was obviously HG's, but I figured that would be a consistent thickness of smoke, not a major variation from almost nothing to thicker white smoke.. right/wrong?
So now I'm thinking somehow the new thermostat led to a ruptured EGR valve/cooler? I'm not a mechanic (obviously) but I'm doing my best to go into the shop as educated as possible so I don't get taken for a ride.

I think the constant research and what not has got me into a nervous frenzy. All I can think about is not hydrolocking or causing some major damage that's going to turn a possible 3-4k job into a 15k motor replacement. None of that is in the budget but obviously less would be better..

I've always been a huge chevy guy but have had a soft spot for the 6.0. I know they're great motors but a little temperamental. I'm hoping that this doesn't ruin my Ford experience as I love this truck and don't want to give up on her.

I planned on doing the full flush and all this weekend, just got antsy and wanted the new stat in. I think my lack of patience may have just taught me a huge lesson. I guess that's part of being 22 and inexperienced.

Sorry for the rant, I'm sure a lot of people on this forum have been in similar predicaments and hopefully understand where my head it at with it.

Thank you, any response or advice is greatly appreciated. God bless

 

Park the truck nose down, pull the EGR valve and look for moisture inside the intake. If it's wet, coolers ruptured, if not, could be an injector and lastly head gaskets. But HG would be showing as coolant overflowing the degas tank, puking coolant can be seen as small whitish colored drops all over the top of the tank, residue dried into the cracks and crannies near and around the tank.

Your saying there was no t-stat or the center section was gone? Removed the housing and just nothing?

Welcome to the site... don't get over anxious yet, we'll get you headed in the right direction.

 

I will do that in the morning, thank you. Definitely hoping its not HG. No spots or any coolant coming from degas so good sign.
(edit: any specific amount of time I should let it sit nose down before removal?)

also wanted to add that I checked my oil and don't see any milky/chocolate color.

I'll attach a picture of the tstat (housing) that I removed. Pulled it straight up and out. I was shocked. I've never seen or even heard of this happening.

(Sorry for size of photo, I now know to make it smaller next time.)

 

That's not good. That didn't fall apart. You won't find any pieces in your system. Someone deliberately removed that thermostat to keep the system from getting up to temp and pressurizing.

 

Since it's pouring out the smoke, probably won't have to sit long. Oil mixed with water would indicate a ruptured oil cooler, moisture in the intake, obviously a blown EGR cooler.

The oil cooler will rupture if its clogged full of junk and the temperature differential at that point is pretty large. You said yours wasn't that high after the new thermostat?

I'd say the same thing about the parts floating around in the system, it would have stopped the pump if that went thru it. And from looking at the right side of the housing, it's not discolored like the rest of the housing is... its new. Does coolant look new or the degas tank look new or the cap? Sometimes people selling the truck will replace parts to give the appearance of no issue and won't be the first time we've seen or heard this.

When you test drove the truck before buying.... did you take any device to read the temps/pressures/voltages? Any warranty with the purchase?

1) Get the truck up to operating temp, remove the degas cap carefully to relieve pressure. Once that pressure is relieved, it shouldn't build anymore in the cooling system. This test will tell if pressure is continuing to build in the cooling system by a leaking head gasket. After venting, drive the truck some more and then check the cap again for pressure. If it doesn't build more pressure, your probably good. If there is a significant amount of pressure after venting the first time and no big coolant temp change, you may have a leaking head gasket. Why you got it up to temp before the first venting and then drove more to keep it at temp, heat builds pressure. Ho heat change, no pressure change, no pressure should be present the second venting or a very little. If it's a big pressure the second time around, then I'd suspect heads.
Hope this isn't written to be confusing?

2) After the pressure test, park nose down. Let it cool a bit and then pop the EGR valve out. Remove the hold down bolts, twist it a little and then pry it out. Look for liquid, built up carbon and/or a hot gooey mess of tar. If its dry and just carbon build up, clean that off and reinstall the EGR valve. That should reveal a blown EGR cooler.

While driving, watch oil and water temps. There would be no way that the internals of a thermostat floating around in the system wouldn't have caused major issues with the pump... does the pump or belt appear new?

 

That was my first assumption upon seeing the old tstat but my dad came out and said it had to have broken off in the system. So I'm glad there's no parts lodged somewhere but that's obviously not a good sign.
Nothing on the truck looked new, degas bottle, water pump etc.

No I didn't bring any equipment to check temps or voltages while test driving. I started it, let it warm up, and drove it. Let it idle and climbed all over it. No leaks or sweating or rust (California) so I figured I just got a steal.

 

Where in Cali?

I'd think something like that wouldn't have just broken off, someone got a steal. Run the tests I've mentioned, let see what you got.

 

North county san diego. I'm from southern missouri but moved out here to go to school.

So, started the truck up. Very sluggish to crank but eventually did. coolant pooled up in my exhaust tip, so it just blew coolant all over the driveway. degas bottle was lower which goes along with the leak and confirms the confirmed.

A little bit of coolant puke on the degas bottle. I guess it finally dried up overnight.

Letting it warm up to check valve and pressure in degas.

Either way, however the truck ends up, I'm working on contacting the dealer.
The thermostat was obviously tampered with. I kept the old, broken one. Is there any way for me to be able to fight this and have it fixed under their expense? it'd be nice if they'd completely fix it, but it being a small dealer, I feel like they'd cut corners.. again.

It'd be nice if they'd even buy it back and I could start shopping all over again, but like I said I'd rather just get her fixed and back on the road.

 

so your getting coolant in the exhaust pipe? Enough to pour out the tailpipe?

Not sure what your warranty was or how long ago, but if its pouring out the tailpipe as you say.... it won't be cheap.

Did you pull the EGR valve yet?

Just so happens that I'm in San Diego this week for business, near the base. Your in school... Dad and you pay a visit to the dealer? EGR cooler replacement, not to bad.... possible head gasket issues... $$$$ and I'd make them get the truck fixed at another location... maybe one you chose.

 

Yes, enough to be falling out of the exhaust. I haven't had a chance to pull the valve yet, but will tonight hopefully.

I called to talk to the owner but he was out. I got a 50/50 "oiled parts" warranty, but they're saying they don't know what he'll do to help because "they wouldn't do that" to the tstat.
My argument is how could you sell a vehicle without checking things like that? Especially a place that "specializes in trucks and diesel" (I know that's a sales tactic, just funny to me).

They told me when they inspected it that there wee no issues. Can't remember any mention of the tstat.

Yes for school. actually will be joining the military in a month or so.

 

Look closely. Thermostat housing IS broken, and recently. There should be two posts sticking up from the housing for the tstat to lock into. The one on the right is missing and where it broke from is still clean. I don't know for sure if the guts of the tstat will fit into the hole in the front engine cover but I think it could be down in there just out of sight.

 

That's a good point, is similar to what we were thinkin initially.
The spot where the bracket was broken off does look new, but I can't imagine it breaking like that while installed. I'm still leaning towards the "tampered" to hide the real issue.

It is a small dealership in Oceanside. It is one of those "military specials" kind of places so not the most trustworthy.

For example, just a week ago had them replace all ball joints, new pads and rotors and alignment for 350. Even let me pick the parts that they used. They gave me that deal because I wrote a bad review of them on Yelp detailing my difficulty in contacting them about anything.

I'm not blaming them, or even implying they're the ones that did it. I know it has to have been that way since I bought it.
It doesn't help that after replacing it with a brand new tstat, the problems immediately arose.

The obvious goal is to get it back up and running. I don't think I should have to pay the costs to fix it (based on what I've stated earlier) but that's not how life works.

 

Sent you a PM about places to get a solid diagnosis if necessary. Either the dealer or previous owner knows what really happened. You need to know what's going on and what repairs (if any) need to be done. Might be best to get an independent shop who specializes in 6.0 to check it out.

Once you know that, you can go from there. Keep us posted, we've got your back.

 

thank you sir. I really appreciate it guys. I was also worried about that and I've only seen one good powerstroke shop.
Would I not see the pm on my phone? It said new message but only showed me the welcome to one from registering..?

 

I used the "send member an email" link when clicking on your name. If you didn't get it let me know. I wasn't sure if it was against the rules of the forum to publish the names of shops in a post. You are close to some good shops that specialize in the 6.0.