Front drum backing plate
#1
Front drum backing plate
Cleaning my backing plate to place some new brakes on and noticed that the high points had some serious wear points. I'm not having any luck finding a new backing plate. So...I've seen fixes from grind them all flush, to filling the grooves with JB weld and then grinding the high point flush. I would prefer to replace the backing plate but I'm not finding any for a 65, so is there a year range that I can look at?
1965 Ford F100
1965 Ford F100
#2
#3
JB-Weld is good stuff. It won't work on high temp stuff like exhaust manifolds or immersed in gasoline but that's about it. The hot setup of course, is welding a bead and grinding it down.
"Like metal, J-B WELD can be formed, drilled, ground, tapped, machined, filled, sanded, and painted. It stays pliable for about 30 minutes after mixing, sets in 4-6 hours, and cures fully in 15-24 hours. It's water-proof; petroleum-, chemical-, and acid-resistent; resists shock, vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations, and withstands temperatures up to 500° F. J-B WELD is super strong, non-toxic, and safe to use. Before it sets, you can clean up with soap and water."
All it takes is a skim coat to fill in the grooves and just let it cure. Lubricate the pads with Syl-Glide or equivalent. Tried it on my 64's rear backing plates as an experiment, it seems to hold up just fine. Inspected the drums and new hardware just the other day, in fact. We'll see how it goes.
"Like metal, J-B WELD can be formed, drilled, ground, tapped, machined, filled, sanded, and painted. It stays pliable for about 30 minutes after mixing, sets in 4-6 hours, and cures fully in 15-24 hours. It's water-proof; petroleum-, chemical-, and acid-resistent; resists shock, vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations, and withstands temperatures up to 500° F. J-B WELD is super strong, non-toxic, and safe to use. Before it sets, you can clean up with soap and water."
All it takes is a skim coat to fill in the grooves and just let it cure. Lubricate the pads with Syl-Glide or equivalent. Tried it on my 64's rear backing plates as an experiment, it seems to hold up just fine. Inspected the drums and new hardware just the other day, in fact. We'll see how it goes.
#4
I agree with Tedster's assesment that the better solution is to weld and re-dress, or use a better backing plate. Some people are fans of JB weld and other epoxies and I think they have their place...but, after all, it was steel that wore away the first time around. I also get it, that it took years to wear out but why not build it to last for the same effort...?
#5
Cleaning my backing plate (Right or Left?) to place some new brakes on and noticed that the high points had some serious wear points. I'm not having any luck finding a new backing plate. So...I've seen fixes from grind them all flush, to filling the grooves with JB weld and then grinding the high point flush. I would prefer to replace the backing plate but I'm not finding any for a 65, so is there a year range that I can look at?
1965 Ford F100
1965 Ford F100
1965/66 F100 2WD
#7
Ya kinda hafta reverse engineer what Bill says (sometimes), if there WERE a number of years where the backing plates were the same, he would have said so. It looks like that's it. 1965 WAS a major change for the trucks, the solid axle went away in favor of twin I-beam suspension. By '67 they had made some other changes to body styles and brake options so...
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#9
#10
I am not a welder, but I think you just need someone to 'run a bead' along the wear pad to fill in the worn area, then grind it down so it's level with the unworn portion of the pad, and smooth so movement of the pad is not inhibited. I put some high temperature grease on the backing plate, or anti-seize.
#11
Shane:
I do have a set of 65 f100 backing plates. I think a flat rate box will fit it. If you don't want to chase...I'll be happy to help you out, for little more than shipping. In fact, if there's any isssue with the gliding surface I can weld it up and refinish it for you...no extra. Just let me know which side you need.
I do have a set of 65 f100 backing plates. I think a flat rate box will fit it. If you don't want to chase...I'll be happy to help you out, for little more than shipping. In fact, if there's any isssue with the gliding surface I can weld it up and refinish it for you...no extra. Just let me know which side you need.
#12
Important thing is you are performing good maintenance, doing a GOOD brake job. People typically ignore the backing plate pads, re-use the old, worn out retracting spring hardware, maybe mix up the self-adjusters, use mismatched worn out cracked drums, two long shoes installed together on a side, two short shoes on the other etc.
The old school mechanic guys say probably half the cars that came in for brake service back in the day were screwed up in some way. We have it pretty easy with the intertubes these days.
The old school mechanic guys say probably half the cars that came in for brake service back in the day were screwed up in some way. We have it pretty easy with the intertubes these days.
#14
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