Thoughts on Oil Pan replacement
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Freshman User
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From: Westford MA
Thoughts on Oil Pan replacement
Hi Guys. I have been looking around trying to find any information on changing the 6.4 oil pan. I have a 08 Job 2 Lariat. Engine has about 90K. Noticed that my oil pan is rusty. There is so much oil on it scraping, cleaning, and painting it will not work. I need to replace it. Who has done it, and what do you think? I did an EGR delete, and DPF delete by myself. Thought it was pretty difficult without a lift. But I did it, and she runs like a dream.If its a pain in the buns, i will consider paying the money to get it done. Thoughts?
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From: Isanti, MN
Hi Dave,
This isn't an easy thing to replace on this truck. You'll either need to remove the engine, or lift it enough to clear the crossmembers.
Is it leaking? If not I'd scrape, clean, and paint. I believe this is more than 10 hours of labor to pay a shop for.
This isn't an easy thing to replace on this truck. You'll either need to remove the engine, or lift it enough to clear the crossmembers.
Is it leaking? If not I'd scrape, clean, and paint. I believe this is more than 10 hours of labor to pay a shop for.
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
I'll go as far as agreeing that it's definitely not an easy job on this engine. But it doesn't require engine removal to replace either. I would say it's fairly similar to doing it on a 6.0L engine, but with a little bit more involvement as far as items to remove and disconnect.
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From: Isanti, MN
You can get the pan out without lifting the engine?
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Freshman User
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From: Westford MA
Figures. I was looking at it. I noticed it does cross over the crossmember. But I did not look at it from a removal stand point. Its rusted pretty good. But oil level is not moving, I dont see any oil in the driveway. I suppose I could try and paint it. Yikes. Sounds like it would be expensive to have someone replace it.
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Lead Driver
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Originally Posted by Brad Clayton on forddoctorsdts.com
My take on 6.4 lower oil pan replacement.
I disconnect both battery ground cables. Remove all 4 bolts from the top fan shroud. Loosen the cold cac hose at the upper tube connection only. Loosen the intake hose from the air filter assy. It will look like this when the engine is raised:
Posted Image
I lift the truck and drain the oil. I remove the left motor mount thru bolt and lubricate the mount wedge. This mount is designed like an old alternator bracket and the wedge slides back and forth in the groove and must be slid back some to allow easy removal.
Posted Image
I take a prybar and place it in-between the space shown by the green arrows and pry the wedge (red arrow) back away from the mount. It doesn’t take much prying just need to move it over so it’s not binding on the mount.
Posted Image
I remove the right mount nuts.
Posted Image
I remove the steering stabilizer and the right tie rod end so I can access the crank pulley. I jack up the engine enough just to access the oil pan bolts a little easier.
Posted Image
I remove the engine ground and the trans cooler line bracket to allow a little easier access to the right side pan bolts. This oil pan bolt is about the hardest to get to, but a 10 mm swivel socket makes short work of it.
Posted Image
I remove the 2 lower bell housing bolts to give just a little more room for the pan to fall down.
Posted Image
Now I reach in and remove the pickup tube and set it on the bench.
Posted Image
I lower the truck and use a floor jack to jack the engine back up again.
Posted Image
I do this so the wheels are on the ground and I can monitor what is going on under the hood. It gets pretty hairy jacking the motor up high enough for pan removal with the whole truck in the air. Once the high pressure turbo oil inlet starts to make contact with the cowl insulation, the engine is plenty high enough to get the pan out.
Posted Image
I slide under the truck and remove the pan and check the gasket, then slide the new pan in place. I lower the engine and raise the truck again and reassemble everything. I bring it back down and button the three items up under the hood and fill it with oil and check for leaks.
And that be that.
I disconnect both battery ground cables. Remove all 4 bolts from the top fan shroud. Loosen the cold cac hose at the upper tube connection only. Loosen the intake hose from the air filter assy. It will look like this when the engine is raised:
Posted Image
I lift the truck and drain the oil. I remove the left motor mount thru bolt and lubricate the mount wedge. This mount is designed like an old alternator bracket and the wedge slides back and forth in the groove and must be slid back some to allow easy removal.
Posted Image
I take a prybar and place it in-between the space shown by the green arrows and pry the wedge (red arrow) back away from the mount. It doesn’t take much prying just need to move it over so it’s not binding on the mount.
Posted Image
I remove the right mount nuts.
Posted Image
I remove the steering stabilizer and the right tie rod end so I can access the crank pulley. I jack up the engine enough just to access the oil pan bolts a little easier.
Posted Image
I remove the engine ground and the trans cooler line bracket to allow a little easier access to the right side pan bolts. This oil pan bolt is about the hardest to get to, but a 10 mm swivel socket makes short work of it.
Posted Image
I remove the 2 lower bell housing bolts to give just a little more room for the pan to fall down.
Posted Image
Now I reach in and remove the pickup tube and set it on the bench.
Posted Image
I lower the truck and use a floor jack to jack the engine back up again.
Posted Image
I do this so the wheels are on the ground and I can monitor what is going on under the hood. It gets pretty hairy jacking the motor up high enough for pan removal with the whole truck in the air. Once the high pressure turbo oil inlet starts to make contact with the cowl insulation, the engine is plenty high enough to get the pan out.
Posted Image
I slide under the truck and remove the pan and check the gasket, then slide the new pan in place. I lower the engine and raise the truck again and reassemble everything. I bring it back down and button the three items up under the hood and fill it with oil and check for leaks.
And that be that.
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2010 6.4L Diesel oil pan replacement
Hi All
Thanks for all of your comments. I have a 2010 6.4L with a leaking oil pan, lower. I have the Ford shop manuals, it states to remove turbos and a lot of other items to get the pan out which I do not have a problem doing but if I can do the gasket without removing a lot of extra parts that would be great. If I am reading correctly I may not need to do that, can you confirm or has performed Brads procedure for my truck as well. Thanks in advance for any help
Thanks for all of your comments. I have a 2010 6.4L with a leaking oil pan, lower. I have the Ford shop manuals, it states to remove turbos and a lot of other items to get the pan out which I do not have a problem doing but if I can do the gasket without removing a lot of extra parts that would be great. If I am reading correctly I may not need to do that, can you confirm or has performed Brads procedure for my truck as well. Thanks in advance for any help
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,804
Likes: 113
Hi All
Thanks for all of your comments. I have a 2010 6.4L with a leaking oil pan, lower. I have the Ford shop manuals, it states to remove turbos and a lot of other items to get the pan out which I do not have a problem doing but if I can do the gasket without removing a lot of extra parts that would be great. If I am reading correctly I may not need to do that, can you confirm or has performed Brads procedure for my truck as well. Thanks in advance for any help
Thanks for all of your comments. I have a 2010 6.4L with a leaking oil pan, lower. I have the Ford shop manuals, it states to remove turbos and a lot of other items to get the pan out which I do not have a problem doing but if I can do the gasket without removing a lot of extra parts that would be great. If I am reading correctly I may not need to do that, can you confirm or has performed Brads procedure for my truck as well. Thanks in advance for any help
For those that have rusty oil pans that do not leak, a good car wash pressure wash and a coat of POR 15 or Rustoleum would be your best bet. It's not rusting from the inside so you should be able to stop it on the outside.
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