Originally Posted by Tom

Hi Dave,

This isn't an easy thing to replace on this truck. You'll either need to remove the engine, or lift it enough to clear the crossmembers.

Is it leaking? If not I'd scrape, clean, and paint. I believe this is more than 10 hours of labor to pay a shop for.

Originally Posted by m-chan68

I'll go as far as agreeing that it's definitely not an easy job on this engine. But it doesn't require engine removal to replace either.

Originally Posted by Brad Clayton on forddoctorsdts.com

My take on 6.4 lower oil pan replacement.

I disconnect both battery ground cables. Remove all 4 bolts from the top fan shroud. Loosen the cold cac hose at the upper tube connection only. Loosen the intake hose from the air filter assy. It will look like this when the engine is raised:

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I lift the truck and drain the oil. I remove the left motor mount thru bolt and lubricate the mount wedge. This mount is designed like an old alternator bracket and the wedge slides back and forth in the groove and must be slid back some to allow easy removal.
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I take a prybar and place it in-between the space shown by the green arrows and pry the wedge (red arrow) back away from the mount. It doesn’t take much prying just need to move it over so it’s not binding on the mount.

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I remove the right mount nuts.

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I remove the steering stabilizer and the right tie rod end so I can access the crank pulley. I jack up the engine enough just to access the oil pan bolts a little easier.

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I remove the engine ground and the trans cooler line bracket to allow a little easier access to the right side pan bolts. This oil pan bolt is about the hardest to get to, but a 10 mm swivel socket makes short work of it.

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I remove the 2 lower bell housing bolts to give just a little more room for the pan to fall down.

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Now I reach in and remove the pickup tube and set it on the bench.

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I lower the truck and use a floor jack to jack the engine back up again.

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I do this so the wheels are on the ground and I can monitor what is going on under the hood. It gets pretty hairy jacking the motor up high enough for pan removal with the whole truck in the air. Once the high pressure turbo oil inlet starts to make contact with the cowl insulation, the engine is plenty high enough to get the pan out.

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I slide under the truck and remove the pan and check the gasket, then slide the new pan in place. I lower the engine and raise the truck again and reassemble everything. I bring it back down and button the three items up under the hood and fill it with oil and check for leaks.

And that be that.

Originally Posted by RobbieRacer

Hi All

Thanks for all of your comments. I have a 2010 6.4L with a leaking oil pan, lower. I have the Ford shop manuals, it states to remove turbos and a lot of other items to get the pan out which I do not have a problem doing but if I can do the gasket without removing a lot of extra parts that would be great. If I am reading correctly I may not need to do that, can you confirm or has performed Brads procedure for my truck as well. Thanks in advance for any help