I have a 65 Ford F100 with a 300. I want to replace motor mounts but don't have a a cherry picker. Through my research have found that I can support the engine and replace all three mounts, but my issue/concern is the cross member under the oil pan. With that being there I am concerned about supporting the front half to get to the replace the two sides.

 

Find out if theres a fellow fte member in your are, check homepage, they list all the chapters, theres gotta b somebody than can loan you one. That motor prolly weghs 500lbs, b careful, keep them kids away, good luck.

 

I've read some threads talking about using a floor jack under the oil pan, and putting a 2x8 or triple layer of plywood between the jack and oil pan. This way the weight is spread across a bigger area and is less likely to dent the pan. That's how I was planning on replacing my mounts.

 

I think it is a good idea as well but what is your plan for the cross member? Are you gonna place wood between the oil pan and cross member?

 

In installing headers on the 65 I only loosened the motor mounts, left the cross-member and clutch assembly intact, used a 2x4 between the jack and crankshaft pulley, then lifted just enough to insert the headers, there was no tension on the motor mounts, I could have removed if so desired. It worked for me, if U's do not have an engine hoist then may consider this approach??

 

Perhaps u r correct by distributing the weight with wood. But you still need to be careful, 400-450lbs is alot off weight on wood.

 

I've jacked a few engines back before I owned a cherry picker but you always risk damage. Why not get one from a rental yard for a day? The cost may be far less then risking damage and the time and cost for repairs.

 

hiball has a point, suggest check classified, either local paper or Craig's List, probly find them ranging from $50-$150 used? Used the engine hoist for a number of other uses, most recent lifting bed off the chassis.

 

For sure, it would be better to have one than not.

 

So, I just did this job and here is my experience. I used a trolley Jack with a stack of 2 short 2x6s between the jack and the front of the oil pan. Removed the nuts holding the mounts to the frame, then jacked up the engine just until I could see the mounts come away from the frame (only takes about an inch). Then removed the 3 bolts holding the each mount to the engine, and pulled out the mounts. Then bolted the new mounts to the engine, torqued the 3 bolts in each to 60 lbs. Then lowered the engine back down onto the mounts. This took a little jiggle of the jack to get it to settle in evenly. There's a little nub next to the bolt on the passenger side mount that has to drop into the same hole as the bolt. Then torqued the 1 nut on each to 70 lbs. Done.

Jacking up the engine wasn't as big of a deal as I expected, because it really doesn't take much room to get the mounts in and out. Also, the engine may weigh 500 pound lbs, but it's not lifting the full weight-- just tilting it. Imagine you're lifting one end of a 200 pound table with the other end on the ground. You're not really lifting 200 lbs. If you're careful where you put your fingers, there's really no time that you need to have them where the engine could fall on them.

Now, that sounds easy, and it was... the 2nd time. The first time I used Westar brand mounts (part numbers EM2331 and EM2332). The holes to bolt the passenger side mount to the engine didn't line up right. I struggled for awhile, then tried bending the mount a little to get it to line up, which it did. But this caused that mount to be narrower than its supposed to be, and the engine was cocked to the passenger side when I lowered it down. Then my stubbornness led me to snap the mounting bolt on the driver's side while attempting to get it to pull straight (dumb idea). I then replaced that snapped bolt, tightened things down, and still ended up off center. The shifter would only go into first gear. That all took about 3 hours. So I gave up for the night and ordered new mounts (Anchor 2331/2332). Today I put the old mounts back on because it'll be awhile before the new ones arrive. That took about 30 min. It actually cut down some of the vibration just getting the old ones lined up and torqued correctly, they weren't really that far gone.

The lesson learned here was don't try to force it if something doesn't fit, and don't buy any more Westar parts. Btw, here's the problem mount I mentioned. It's pretty obvious from the picture I should have never tried to use it.