Early 2000 F250

Originally the truck would not go into any forward gear, but had reverse all day long.
So I had a rebuild kit ordered (new bushings, seals, frictions, steels, a washer and flat bearing kit, a sprag kit, check *****, and the od piston)

After rebuilding it, taking my sweet time double checking everything, it will now go into forward gear but not reverse. So I dropped the pan. The small 3 bolt plate was torqued to spec. When I got to the third bolt in the smaller section of the valve body (upper valve body) I heard a click like maybe a valve returned to its place but I'm not sure. I removed the valve body and accumulator and all the valves were free and had tension. When I had it apart the first time one valve stuck for a split second but I never could get it to stick again.

Finding nothing there I uninstalled the tranny and took the barrel apart all the way down to the L/R piston and could not find anything wrong.

After the build and me running the truck for about 10-20 min there was metal on the magnet (part of the reason I took it all back apart) however I could not find anything worn or chewed up. Could have been the tc I prefilled with 2 quarts in stead of filling all the way.

Whats going on? Any help will greatly be appreciated.

When I initially rebuilt the 4r100 I took apart the pump to replace the bushing and seal but did not take apart the valves. I've heard the pump is directly related to reverse but I'm not sure. Could something gone wrong in the pump when I took it apart? How would I know? If I new all parts of the reverse system I could then test them.

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At the factory the torque converters are not prefilled at all. They are installed dry. Contrary to popular belief there is no reason to prefill the converter. It doesn't help or hurt anything.

If the converter were the problem here you'd have the same problem in drive and reverse. The torque converter doesn't know the trans is in reverse, it does the exact same thing in reverse as it does in drive.

Something is wrong with the reverse clutch.

Did you air check the system before putting it all back together? If you have a leak in the reverse clutch or the system feeding pressure to the reverse clutch it isn't going to work.

The pump also does the exact same thing in reverse as it does in drive. It has no way to know if the trans is in drive or reverse.

You'd know if the pump was working if you put a 0-350 PSI gauge in the test port on the side of the trans. You'd also know that the pump is working if it engages any gear at all.


You need the direct clutch and the reverse clutch applied to get reverse. Does the trans upshift at least to third gear when you drive it? If it does, then the direct clutch is working. If it won't go above second gear your problem is in the direct clutch.

 

I did air check the clutch packs individually as I built them. I also checked them through the holes in the body. As far as third gear I do not know. I will see if I can locate a gauge today and take the truck for a test drive today.

 

I reassembled it again yesterday and put it back in the truck. I thought a had found the problem. I used my torque wrench to unscrew the center support feed bolts and found they were 2lbs over tight. I figured it was cross leaking. Since the night before last the tiny bit of reverse got less noticeable once the fluid was warmer.

Now today I have the same problem. No reverse, this time not noticeable at all.
When I put the 4r100 in m1 the motor lugged down. So the converter was trying to lock up right? Something in the pump I'm guessing is causing this. I checked the valve body once again and no valves were sticking.

This is really frustrating

 

As you found out 2 lb-ft over torqued is not going to cause this.

Here's what I think you should look at next:

 

Okay I will check for 3 gear today.

What about the torque converter locking in m1?

I really appreciate your help.

 

Low pressure could cause that.

 

And the fluid smells burnt.. No gears at all now.. Took it down the road 1.5 miles went up to 65mph it stayed in third and never shifted to od.. But there was 3rd. I stopped at a stop sign and gave it pedal and then it clicked in gear and lugged/slipped bad (slight up hill)When I got back I put it in park to open the gate put it back in drive and nothing at all.. Like nutral so I towed it back to my shop

And to make things worse fluid is coming out of the bell housing...
I don't see how I could have messed this up this bad.

Original problem was no forward gears.. Took it apart and found burnt forward clutches.. Rebuild and problem solved right.. Now more problems

 

And the transmission is boiling hot to the touch.. Hotter than the motor especially the bell housing

 

You've got a lot of symptoms. Something went wrong in the build. I'm afraid it's going to have to come out and get torn down to see what's wrong.

 

I ****ed up man ****ed up

 

Any ideas on how to get a welded tc off?
Even the output shaft is sloppy.. If I could get this tc off I could see how much **** is now fine dust

 

drill big holes all the way through it or cut the turbine housing apart with a large saws-all so you can get to the pump bolts and take it out with the pump?


better yet, leave it alone and use it as a core for your new reman.

 

Sorry man I know that sux, I have been there.

Two big pry bars on the converter nuts.

I have used a chain bolted to the converter studs and used a slide hammer with mixed results.

Get some buddies and stand the tranny on its bellhousing, then pick it up a bit and drop it down on some wood blocks. Hopefully the weight of the converter will pull it out of the pump.

Shoot it!

 

Out of anger I kicked the **** out of it with my steel toes and it finally came loose.. Disassembled the entire barrel once again and all is good except the forward clutches are completely toast.. So I'll order them a pump and a tc.. And another 3 gallons of atf. Must have been the pump all along.. I think I'll replace the pump on any 4r100's I do in the future

Thanks for yalls help