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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

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Old Mar 10, 2016 | 01:29 PM
  #16  
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Got it man Thanks for the info and advice
 
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Old Mar 11, 2016 | 05:25 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by billbot
Ive pulled it a couple times for other repairs, but never cleaned it. Looking at it on my work bench, it seemed ok. It was on my list to clean when i did the oil cooler in December but i had other things going on and just wanted to get it back together.
IMO, there should never be a time that you pull the turbo for another repair and not pull it apart/separate to inspect the unison ring, vanes, and bearing play.

Too much work, getting it out, knowing it only takes another 15 minutes to separate.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2016 | 07:25 PM
  #18  
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For me, it's been a "if it ain't broke don't fix it" kinda thing. I can see why you'd say that though, i absolutely dread getting everything lined up, but it is what it is.

Working all the weekends this month anyway and not missing any time on the water i wouldn't already be missing so no big deal.

I am wondering though if the low eots I've been running contributed to the turbo getting dirty. Never had any problems for the 80k I've owned my truck. Turbo has 110k on it, replaced at 30k on oasis. Less than 5k after installing my oil cooler that gets me oIl temps of 160-170 around town the turbo is dirty. Maybe just a coincidence.

But, when i cleaned ebp and map tubes, it was wet in there.

Anyways, thanks for the advice, hopefully after finally tackling this i won't think twice about cleanin it next time.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 09:14 AM
  #19  
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Can't see any reason the two are connected. Without a load, I see 200-210, however, being a bit lower can't be all that bad.
My ebp tube was dry as a bone.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 01:11 AM
  #20  
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I don't know, could be wrong, the wet stuff reminded me of the telltale egr cooler leaks. just picturing carbon sticking to that stuff inside the turbo, i had the egr marbles long ago. And that was without any signs of a wet egr valve.

Had some time this afternoon to check a few things. The clip on the vgt plug broke long ago (forgot about that) and has just been wire tied to the solenoid. I was messing with that with the truck running and then noticed vgt go to 85, then the vanes swept and it dropped to 15 and back up.

So there you go, looks like it's the vgt plug. I zip tied it in for now, test drove it and got full boost no problem. Had intermittent surging a couple times which im guessing is the wires and connection being damaged. New pigtail ordered.

Funny thing, did this after stopping on my way home to get enough 3m pads to clean 2 or 3 turbos.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 11:04 AM
  #21  
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Glad to hear you found the issue. The bolt that holds that clip broke when trying to remove. Hindsight, should have just unclipped instead, but now it's zip tied too.
Will have to keep an eye on it.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 09:39 PM
  #22  
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While replacing the vgt plug, i found out just how beat up those wires were once the tape and wire loom were removed. oil soaking into the wire harness at the point where the harness is secured to the turbo softened the insulation and there was some bare wire coming through. Guessing this was from the weakened insulation vibrating against that clamp. Got that all removed and soldered in the new pigtail and truck is driving better.

But there is still a surge at around 55-60 under hard acceleration. So i did a little looking online and found mention of disconnecting the icp plug to see if that cleared things up. Well i tried it and the surge went away.

Thing is my icp #s are good and there's no evidence of the sensor leaking, which apparently is what causes the issue in the first place.

Anyone heard of this or experienced this? I'd hate to put a new icp sensor in and have no change.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 06:41 AM
  #23  
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My ICP was surging at idle. Run the truck for a bit without it, won't hurt anything. Then if it continues to run good, replace it and clear the light.

Fixed my issue. Your seeing smoothed data on the gauge, it is spiking and the gauge isn't set to a higher speed to see it.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 07:16 AM
  #24  
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Less than 5k after installing my oil cooler that gets me oIl temps of 160-170
If your EOT is running that cool then what are you seeing for ECT's?

6.0 is happier and more efficient at 190 ECT or above. If your ECT's are as low as your EOT's then you need to address that.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 11:25 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by navistarnut
If your EOT is running that cool then what are you seeing for ECT's?

6.0 is happier and more efficient at 190 ECT or above. If your ECT's are as low as your EOT's then you need to address that.
Here's my data after the unison ring replacement.

About 57 mph in 5th on flat ground.



At 60 mph in 4th on flat ground.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 04:25 PM
  #26  
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ECT is right at 190, new tstat with all that work in dec. With an air cooled oil cooler, ECT and EOT are independent of each other. It takes some getting used to.

Thanks for the screenshots
 
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