Crank, No Start No Codes
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 354
Likes: 16
Crank, No Start No Codes
Truck ran good, but for the past month every once in awhile it would just stall quick, no rumbling, no smoke, like someone just turned off the ignition, if you turn the key it would immediately fire right back up. Well today it would not start back up. Pulled the IPR plug, no good. FICM replaced abt. a month ago. Checked with Scan Gauge, oil pressure abt. 925 while cranking dropped to abt. 780 after extended crank. And no codes. I do notice when turning key on I hear less clicking/noises going on. All dash lights come on and turn off as usual. Tach doesn't move. Hope this helps, any ideas ?
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
You supposed to pull ICP
Maybe that's what you did worded it wrong I assume
Don't sound like PCM is losing power since you don't mention a gauge sweep
But that's not you problem sounds like a shorted wire or bad ign switch
Maybe that's what you did worded it wrong I assume
Don't sound like PCM is losing power since you don't mention a gauge sweep
But that's not you problem sounds like a shorted wire or bad ign switch
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 354
Likes: 16
Blade I was hoping you'd be around. Yes ICP plug in passenger valve cover. Also a sensor below the fuel filter, I pulled that too because I wasn't sure which one it was, been a few years since I played with a 6.0, went 6.7 but just picked this 6.0 truck up for snow plowing. No gauge sweep, dash acts normal. So where next ?
New User
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
48 volts at the FICM is the very minimal. Anything less is considered LOW!! I'm thinking it is a bad IPR, or HPOP. Also try unplugging your fan clutch. It is rare, but if it goes bad, it CAN keep the engine from starting. Luckily, it is very easy to un-plug.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
48v is designed output, less than 45v is time for repair. It's common to see a perfectly functional FICM flip back and fourth from 47.5 to 48. Output should be checked under all driving conditions but common times for the voltage to sag are KOEO, during cranking, at cold idle, and under load.
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 354
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Its funny you guys are saying this, because after a cold soak this morning I said maybe I should check the FICM, KO 20, key on for abt. 30 seconds ZERO , and the other reading was 8.0, then after 30 seconds .20, ugh its like a month old !! And my batteries are good, 13 volts KO.
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