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Having trouble getting more than 20psi boost. Truck had plenty of power up to that point, and not noticing lag just won't build past 20. If it downshifts, boost will go as high as I'd want it to, but only on a downshift. Also noticed yesterday the vanes are not sweeping at idle.
I cleaned the EBP sensor and tube and found a crack in the MAP tube where it connects to the intake manifold. Replaced the tube, which seemed to help build boost really fast, but still won't go over 20psi. I didn't get to the IAT sensor, it's a real PITA with the oil cooler line directly above it, so maybe in the next couple days when i get some time.
I'm going to check the uppipe flex joints and the rest of the connections, but if that doesn't show anything, I'm wondering if i should clean the turbo. All boots and cac tubes appear to be ok but I'll take a closer look.
Anything I'm leaving out here? Any ideas appreciated.
Mine never builds more than 20 psi either. It is also a 2006 F250 and I've considered cleaning the turbo as well although it has been done before according to the oasis report for work done with the previous owner of the truck. I've read that there is an improved oil drain tube that didn't come with 2003 to 2006 models and that the 2007 model turbos have an internal groove which allows soot and oil to pass through preventing buildup as a result, thereby reducing instances of vanes sticking. I wonder if it's possible to make a groove with a grinder and whether it's worth the trouble to do so. I've done nothing to my turbo or the drain and feed tubes on mine.
Having trouble getting more than 20psi boost. Truck had plenty of power up to that point, and not noticing lag just won't build past 20. If it downshifts, boost will go as high as I'd want it to, but only on a downshift. Also noticed yesterday the vanes are not sweeping at idle.
I cleaned the EBP sensor and tube and found a crack in the MAP tube where it connects to the intake manifold. Replaced the tube, which seemed to help build boost really fast, but still won't go over 20psi. I didn't get to the IAT sensor, it's a real PITA with the oil cooler line directly above it, so maybe in the next couple days when i get some time.
I'm going to check the uppipe flex joints and the rest of the connections, but if that doesn't show anything, I'm wondering if i should clean the turbo. All boots and cac tubes appear to be ok but I'll take a closer look.
Anything I'm leaving out here? Any ideas appreciated.
At WOT what is the VGT duty doing? What are the VGT numbers at WOT, idiling, and normal cruising?
I would think that if the up pipe's were bad/cracked that you would have a distinct exhaust smell in the cab.
How did you check the the boots? Usually its the boot that connects to the turbo that gets cracked and deteriorates.
Can't hurt to pull the turbo and clean it, and inspect it, unless you don't have the time to do it.
I just visually looked over the boots. I got busy last night my tax appointment got moved up and i was pressed for time. Might get some time tonight.
I was checking VGT #s the other day. I want to say it was as high as 53 or 63 at hot idle. WOT went to as low as 35 i think.
Something is not normal, i can tell you that. All started a couple weeks ago towing home, going up the grade my truck would not maintain boost sometimes. It hit 10psi at around 65-70 at the bottom of the grade and the engine started lugging, egts shot up. I had to force a downshift and pull at higher rpms to make it.
This is not how my truck normally acts. The tow there, i could easily pull at the same speed/gear no problem.
I just visually looked over the boots. I got busy last night my tax appointment got moved up and i was pressed for time. Might get some time tonight.
I was checking VGT #s the other day. I want to say it was as high as 53 or 63 at hot idle. WOT went to as low as 35 i think.
Something is not normal, i can tell you that. All started a couple weeks ago towing home, going up the grade my truck would not maintain boost sometimes. It hit 10psi at around 65-70 at the bottom of the grade and the engine started lugging, egts shot up. I had to force a downshift and pull at higher rpms to make it.
This is not how my truck normally acts. The tow there, i could easily pull at the same speed/gear no problem.
The VGT sounds like its working properly, so maybe a cleaning is in order.
Randy, he stated he already did, or did you mean he should clean it again?
Billbot,
What are reading with Key On Engine Off with the EBP, BARO, MAP?
Thanks... I missed that. If EBP wasn't working electrically, he'd probably have a code. If you cleaned it with string trimmer line and made sure it was open.... then I'd lean toward the turbo needs cleaned.
VGT tells you what it should be, boost kind of confirms it. If EBP/MAP/BARO are good and the values go up on MAP/EBP with truck running..... the turbo is the next place to logically look.
Cleaned both ebp and map tubes with trimmer string and bailing wire. Im guessing the turbo is dirty but going to check boots again and up pipe connections
Cleaned both ebp and map tubes with trimmer string and bailing wire. Im guessing the turbo is dirty but going to check boots again and up pipe connections
Those numbers are good.
Maybe pull the boots off completely and check them all around for cracking .
But I would imagine your going to pull that turbo regardless. Have you pulled your turbo before and inspected the inside or cleaned it in the past?
Ive pulled it a couple times for other repairs, but never cleaned it. Looking at it on my work bench, it seemed ok. It was on my list to clean when i did the oil cooler in December but i had other things going on and just wanted to get it back together.
Ive pulled it a couple times for other repairs, but never cleaned it. Looking at it on my work bench, it seemed ok. It was on my list to clean when i did the oil cooler in December but i had other things going on and just wanted to get it back together.
Well the reason I asked was because if you have seen the unison ring and know that it has etching, then now maybe the time to replace it and buy one before you pull it.
I didn't know the condition of my turbo, internally, when I pulled mine. Found out I had etching going on with the unison ring, and put the turbo back together because I couldn't deal with more downtime at the moment. So I purchased a new unison ring for when I pull my turbo again, and then I will replace it.
Got it, thanks. I'm going to go ahead and get one then, may as well plan on replacing it. I know there are lots of videos and other info online for how to clean it, but I'll be honest I'm a little worried I'll mess something up.
Got it, thanks. I'm going to go ahead and get one then, may as well plan on replacing it. I know there are lots of videos and other info online for how to clean it, but I'll be honest I'm a little worried I'll mess something up.
I was worried about the same thing, but I watched enough video's and felt comfortable enough. No special tools required. Watch Diesel Tech Ron's video's on the subject on youtube.
When you start this process start a new thread to be able to generate new traction from people. Ask lots of questions, and we will help you through it.
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