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Oil blowback

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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 11:29 PM
  #1  
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Oil blowback

Getting oil coming back through the breather tube. lots of it. Just replaced the PCV valve, oil pressure and temperature are fine.

Reading my Chiltons manual it says I should use 10w30 oil not the 5w30 im using..



Anyone got any ideas or tips for me here? Im really worried ill have to rebuild the engine here... and I really don't want to have to do that.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 12:07 AM
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Do a compression and/or leakdown test. Chances are the engine is just plain worn out and needs to be rebuilt though. Changing from a 5w30 to a 10w30 isn't going to change anything once it's up to temp, they're both 30 weight at operating temp.

You could try 5w50, or 20w50 if it's not too cold in your neck of the woods, but it'd just be a bandaid if it helps. (edit, I see you're either in WI or MN.. I wouldn't try 20w50 in the winter there )
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 10:02 AM
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Yep, tell tale sign of excessive blowby.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 12:13 PM
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...F*** I really don't want to have to pull the motor... if I do end up rebuilding it, any advice for doing just a little performance build for not a lot of money?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 12:27 PM
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Cheapest is to rebuild reusing crank and rods, but stroker kits are affordable.

Cam and junkyard gt40s are best bang for the buck for "misewells" while you're in there.

Another option is to source a good running 5.8 and start from there.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 09:44 PM
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can you define affordable? most likely I will reuse if possible, I need to keep cost down, just found out were having another baby!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 10:03 PM
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Full cast rotating assemblies are around 1k. Some can be found for less, some more.

The cost of machining can negate much of the savings of reusing parts....so be careful, you might wind up with a 302 when you could have had a 347 for a couple hundred more.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2016 | 05:39 AM
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Do you have plenty of airflow to the new PVC valve? If you unhook the vacuum line to it you should have a huge vacuum leak. Sometimes the passages get clogged up.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2016 | 09:22 PM
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I want to keep this cheap if I can, no major mods, with finding out I have a baby on the way I must do this cheap. Bashby I didnt know this until recently since the truck is at my parents I will have to try that this weekend.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 12:30 AM
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Start doing tests before you plan a rebuild. Change the oil to 10w30, do a compression test and/or a leak down test on the cylinders.

If the engine is worn, and the crank and rod bearing surfaces check out okay, you can get a basic rebuild kit that comes with every gasket you need, 8 new .030" over pistons, new bearings, new oil pump, etc..for $350. Figure in 200-300 bucks to have the block bored over and the pistons pressed onto the rods.

If you wanna get really budget, you can get a set of 0.030" over cast pistons with rings for like $120, and a headgasket set for around $50.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 07:55 PM
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I can do a compression test, ive never heard of a leak down test whats that?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 09:33 PM
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Verify that you have good vacuum to the PCV valve and the line is clear from obstruction. Just went through the same problem. P.O. had a cheap PCV valve, not Motorcraft brand, in place, and the rear main leaked liked crazy. Fixed the hose as it had a crack and new Motorcraft PCV valve and I get maybe a drip or 2 a day now.

Edit: I had Rear Main seal on the brain. But.. If the PCV valve is obstructed, you will get a lot of blowback into the air breather.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 09:36 PM
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https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-...-leakdown-test
 
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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 03:54 PM
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PCV valve is fine. Cylinder #8 has no compression, the rest are fine.
 
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