My truck was running fine. Went in to PO and there was nothing at the key. No noticeable click, the lights were not working, the wipers would not come on. went to call for help, and about 10 minutes later, I tried again and it started like nothing was wrong. the lights work etc. Battery is new.


A while ago, when it got hot, the starter was old, and it would not start. but it sounded like the battery was bad. (it wasn't but it was a bad starter.) Similar to this, however this time the lights were out and the starter is new.


Is something heating up and won't operate until it cools down. I'm in FL and its 75 here
Solenoid, Coil< ??? I'm not a mechanic like you guys. Just need ideas and education.
Thanks,


scott

 

When you say "the lights weren't working" do you mean headlights?

Don't worry about "not being a mechanic", a lot of times it's just being smart about things and eliminating what the problem ain't, by process of elimination. These trucks are so simple that it's usually pretty easy to narrow it down quickly. No need to download the latest software updates for it to shift out of park or whatever.

In this case for example, the fix will be easy. When EVERYTHING goes out, then the fault has to be a main connection - a loose or corroded terminal at the battery itself, say. That's where to start.

 

thanks Tedster. I went thru checking the wiring for loose connections, battery connections, ground without tools since I was at the PO. could not see any obvious points . I checked to see if the headlights came on - they didn't and looked at the above as you suggested.
It works now like nothing was wrong. I'll do a through remove and clean as I go, however it is mostly new and seems fine.
One thing I was asking, is there something in this main connection, that would intermittently fail due to engine heat.
My key switch was replaced last year, however my wiring is old and disturbingly poor due to PO modifications during installation of a 302. Starter is new and a new ground added at the time. However I do not remember hearing the solenoid click, indicating something ahead of that, on the battery side.

 

Not sure about heat causing that per se.

These trucks have a lot of years on them. Take some weekend afternoon to remove the battery and put it on a charger at a low rate overnight. While it's getting juiced up replace the battery and starter cables, ground straps, etc. Grind down to bright, shiny metal and then tighten securely.

These are of course the main electrical connections for the entire electrical system at the block, frame, and firewall and very often totally neglected. There are also some multipin block connectors at the firewall that will be full of corrosion by now. Brass bristle brush and some kerosene or whatever will work fine to clean up the pins and receptacles. It pays to do this. In my experience electrical faults never fix themselves, intermittents etc. They'll be back otherwise.

 

I agree with Tedster. Also check the cables. Often they will corrode inside the shielding and get "fat". I went through our 64 and replace all the cables with new 2 gauge cables and it turns over like new.

 

thanks all. I am cleaning as I go thru the systems, the problem may or not be fixed. This doesn't make me feel confident in the reliability. Larry, the battery is new and I had changed the cables and ground when done about 3 months ago. I also added a new ground to the engine to the body when the starter was replaced. The wiring is old from ignition to starter relay.


However----- as I was driving yesterday, the engine cut out completely, and as I rolled from the 3rd lane to the breakdown lane thru traffic (Automatic still in gear), the engine started up again and ran like nothing was wrong.


Since this may be a whole new problem, or my last diagnosis was in error. It now is on to coil, coil wire, and whatever. PS no backfire, or indication of rough running. Cut out like the key was off then on. Ignition is new.

 

"My key switch was replaced last year, however my wiring is old and disturbingly poor due to PO modifications during installation of a 302."

Are you using Pts an Cond or DSII ignition? Does the wiring at the ignition switch still use the stock plug in connector with the long stud? What year is the truck?

 

truck still has points/condenser the ignition switch is standard, but the PO cut off the harness plug end. I had to wire it from loose wires, not the original socket. The truck is 1966. Engine changed by the PO to 1980 ish 302.


I'm leaning toward ignition wiring since 1. it would not turn over at all then would and ran like nothing is wrong and 2. it cut out (like the switch was off) -then started again (on its own) like nothing is wrong.
The problem I can't understand is --that the two problems are different circuits --
I THINK. one on start and one during running. On start The headlights would not come on - not sure during the running failure. since the "cut-out" was about 30 seconds

 

At the starter solenoid, on the Pos battery cable stud is the black with yellow tracer wire that feeds everything on the truck except maybe the horn. Other wire on the stud goes to a harness that "y's" to the Alt and then to the Volt reg and maybe the horn relay(cannot see if any splices, taped up harness). The black yellow is lower left in the connector nearest Master Cyl. Under dash I believe black yellow goes to Bat term of ignition switch and I'll guess with a splice, it has to power all else under the dash and the rest of the truck. I think you have some resistance along that wire.

Two things,
1, The black yellow at ignition switch, the batt spade was wider, heavier than the other spades on the switch. Make sure your connector(female spade) and if a short piece of wire was used to reach the switch, is the same gauge as the black yellow wire, not lighter. And good and tight plugged on.
2, The black yellow is the wire that needs to be cut and added to, if a person wants to add an Amp Meter to their truck. I don't know if your truck has an Amp Meter from the factory or an add on. My truck is a factory stock Plain Jane with idiot lights, so I can't tell you how it is wired. Some Ford Amp Meters in the past had a loop at the back of the gauge, that the wire, that was equal to the black yellow ran thru. Add on gauges had studs and nuts that the current actually goes thru a bar in the gauge. I have had total electrical failure due to a burned Amp Meter. Nothing on the truck would work.

I think you have resistance due to a loose connection somewhere that I have described, and it cools when load is gone. That connection will be like turning off the key.

Hope you find it, I'm curious

 

No 1980s engine came with points and condenser?

 

Thanks IICAP that gives me something to search or prove out. It seems that it may be temperature oriented and I do not have the expertise to understand. If it just stopped and stayed that way probably would be better since when it was fixed, I would know.


Now its an adventure to take it for a ride!


Tedster, the engine was changed by two owners back, and the PO said it was an early 80's mustang as he was told. The block EOAE D3C00 4B20 (and no its NOT 6300) numbers dummy has told me that it is probably a 302 or 351 from as early as 1980/81 I confirmed that it was a 302 at the water jacket and when the starter was changed I got the 4B20 indicating the 1984 Feb 20 date. I'm giving you this info being a retired contractor. If you can improve my data please feel free.
Also, it never occurred to me that the distributor should be electronic -great info.
ie: When I bought the truck, the PO gave me the mechanical bills he had done in the year he owned it. One bill was for $400 plus to "change the points" He said this garage had it towed to them and they said the dizzy was wrong so they replaced it. They probably thought that it was a 351 of the 1966 era. I don't know what it had

 

It would be quicker to look than type all that out?

 

most of that answer was to explain to you who was telling me what I didn't have. I do thank you for your help
Scott