Replacing the power steering pump
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Well that was a pain in the a$$.
Still saved quite a bit of money doing it myself. The estimates I had were around $700 if the pump and all the lines had to be replaced. Hopefully I won't need to do this again anytime soon.
Still saved quite a bit of money doing it myself. The estimates I had were around $700 if the pump and all the lines had to be replaced. Hopefully I won't need to do this again anytime soon.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
I went with a Motorcraft pump & OEMreturn line but used a Napa pressure line. Just got it all flushed and did the steering "full lock left to full lock right" turn 60 times to get the air out. As soon as I am finished helping my daughter with her science homework I'm gonna go for a drive......you know I'll be listening for the whine!😎😜
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
Did you have the tires off the ground when turning back and forth during the bleeding procedure? Which fluid does your system take?
I did this with two floor jacks when bleeding my system. Three bolts on the V10, new return hose as well. What size was the hose fittings on the pump? Mine was an 18mm and I need to locate a flare wrench for that size. Unfortunately the Husky kit did not come with.
I did this with two floor jacks when bleeding my system. Three bolts on the V10, new return hose as well. What size was the hose fittings on the pump? Mine was an 18mm and I need to locate a flare wrench for that size. Unfortunately the Husky kit did not come with.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 3
From: SW Ohio
Just a tip..I might be called a hack.........but who gives a crap!
When installing the replacement pump. Only use 3 of the 4 bolts. Do not put the one that is behind the high pressure line back in. The pump is located on 2 dowels and will not rotate/shift if those are back in.
Now if you have to remove the pump again for any reason, disconnect the high pressure line at the hydro boost. Remove the 3 bolts and slide the pump and hose out from under neath.
This saved me about 30 minutes when I had to replace an A-1 Cardone pump I had installed. The bearings went out after 8 months.
When installing the replacement pump. Only use 3 of the 4 bolts. Do not put the one that is behind the high pressure line back in. The pump is located on 2 dowels and will not rotate/shift if those are back in.
Now if you have to remove the pump again for any reason, disconnect the high pressure line at the hydro boost. Remove the 3 bolts and slide the pump and hose out from under neath.
This saved me about 30 minutes when I had to replace an A-1 Cardone pump I had installed. The bearings went out after 8 months.
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Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Just a tip..I might be called a hack.........but who gives a crap!
When installing the replacement pump. Only use 3 of the 4 bolts. Do not put the one that is behind the high pressure line back in. The pump is located on 2 dowels and will not rotate/shift if those are back in.
Now if you have to remove the pump again for any reason, disconnect the high pressure line at the hydro boost. Remove the 3 bolts and slide the pump and hose out from under neath.
This saved me about 30 minutes when I had to replace an A-1 Cardone pump I had installed. The bearings went out after 8 months.
When installing the replacement pump. Only use 3 of the 4 bolts. Do not put the one that is behind the high pressure line back in. The pump is located on 2 dowels and will not rotate/shift if those are back in.
Now if you have to remove the pump again for any reason, disconnect the high pressure line at the hydro boost. Remove the 3 bolts and slide the pump and hose out from under neath.
This saved me about 30 minutes when I had to replace an A-1 Cardone pump I had installed. The bearings went out after 8 months.
that is what I did when I installed the new pump. Installed the HP line to the pump first, then the pump to the mounting bracket. Made it so much easier!
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Did you have the tires off the ground when turning back and forth during the bleeding procedure? Which fluid does your system take?
I did this with two floor jacks when bleeding my system. Three bolts on the V10, new return hose as well. What size was the hose fittings on the pump? Mine was an 18mm and I need to locate a flare wrench for that size. Unfortunately the Husky kit did not come with.
I did this with two floor jacks when bleeding my system. Three bolts on the V10, new return hose as well. What size was the hose fittings on the pump? Mine was an 18mm and I need to locate a flare wrench for that size. Unfortunately the Husky kit did not come with.
To get the high press line off I bought a $20 set of crows foot wrenches. The 18 mm did the trick with a 12" extension. I Got lucky on that one.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 370
Likes: 0
From: Spartanburg, SC
Kinda budding in the middle of this here sorry, but did you flush and fill the entire system with that 7.3 synthetic trans fluid or just add some to another fluid. I need to flush my system in the near future and was wondering what fluid to use.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
The fluid I used is Schaeffer's 204SAT synthetic trans fluid. I drained the old fluid out of the reservior, cooler and lines. Basically disconnected everything and let her drain over a couple of days while waiting for the pump. Then flushed the system with a quart of the new fluid and added 2 quarts to fill her up.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 370
Likes: 0
From: Spartanburg, SC
Gottcha thanks. I replaced the pump on my old 5.4 F250 about a year ago even though that truck doesn't use a hydro boost system for the brakes like the diesels, it was still a pain lol. I used some type of ATF(not sure what brand/type) that's why I wanted to see what I should use on my new truck.
At the time the motorctaft unit was the best option. Got the dealer to match the price I saw on RA too. Thanks!
At the time the motorctaft unit was the best option. Got the dealer to match the price I saw on RA too. Thanks!
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 6
From: Sioux Falls, SD
I figured since the fluid was 10 years old and most of it drained out already, I better just get the rest out and start fresh. This guy did a great write up with pics.
http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/sh...2035&showall=1
Here's a link for flushing the system…it's on a 7.3L but the same applies for the 6.0L
http://www.superdutypsd.com/power_steering_flush.php
There are also some good you tube videos on flushing the system with a couple of 3/8" inside diameter hoses that make it very quick and no mess.
http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/sh...2035&showall=1
Here's a link for flushing the system…it's on a 7.3L but the same applies for the 6.0L
http://www.superdutypsd.com/power_steering_flush.php
There are also some good you tube videos on flushing the system with a couple of 3/8" inside diameter hoses that make it very quick and no mess.
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