When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Have you measured for AC current Off the alternator post? The batteries will absorb most of this depending on how much, but, this could b doing some damage. The trick will be measuring properly and having the correct meter and settings so you don't ruin your meter equipment.
Have you measured for AC current Off the alternator post? The batteries will absorb most of this depending on how much, but, this could b doing some damage. The trick will be measuring properly and having the correct meter and settings so you don't ruin your meter equipment.
Just measured again. .75 to .215 MV. Going to go get another alternator right now. I'll post my results when I get back.
Just measured again. .75 to .215 MV. Going to go get another alternator right now. I'll post my results when I get back.
All better now. Put a large case 6G back in. A/C voltage is now .15 on PS battery and .33 on DS battery, solid. I'm not sure why all of the sudden my truck didn't like the 3G anymore? O'Reilly let me try another 3G. Same results. A/C voltage was up and down, not steady at all. Also the output DC voltage was at 15.3 on both 3G alternators.
Put the 140 Lg case 6G in. No fluctuations at all. Steady A/C MV with DC voltage at 14.29 at both batteries.
I had been running the 3G for over a year with no problems till 2 months ago??? Maybe the conversion pigtail is bad?? In any case, I'll see how this does and give an update later on. Maybe I'll upgrade to the Neville and keep this one as a spare.
Those running the Neville how has it been doing? Did you run an additional fuse? If so, what size.
Mhoefer; I see you're running the Neville, feedback on that unit.
Running my LN for 3 years, added piggy back 2/0 positive to alt, same for negative from alt bolt, and cleaned all grounds and terminals. I added no in line fuse to my positive.
Running my LN for 3 years, added piggy back 2/0 positive to alt, same for negative from alt bolt, and cleaned all grounds and terminals. I added no in line fuse to my positive.
Running my LN for 3 years, added piggy back 2/0 positive to alt, same for negative from alt bolt, and cleaned all grounds and terminals. I added no in line fuse to my positive.
That ".15 on PS battery and .33 on DS battery" needs addressed. Add a 2.0 wire from positive to positive and that will minimize that loss.
I'm running the NL 230... great alternator at a good price! Running no fuse, additional cabling was 2.0 welder cable and I went from alternator mounting bolt to body for the negative... that should give a deeper ground. Also added a 2.0 from drivers frame to block and the additional positive from alternator + to drivers positive and a 6' 2.0 from battery positive to battery positive. I'm a solid 14.2v from truck start-up until I turn the key off.
This is a big deal.... "cleaned all grounds and terminals."
That ".15 on PS battery and .33 on DS battery" needs addressed. Add a 2.0 wire from positive to positive and that will minimize that loss.
I'm running the NL 230... great alternator at a good price! Running no fuse, additional cabling was 2.0 welder cable and I went from alternator mounting bolt to body for the negative... that should give a deeper ground. Also added a 2.0 from drivers frame to block and the additional positive from alternator + to drivers positive and a 6' 2.0 from battery positive to battery positive. I'm a solid 14.2v from truck start-up until I turn the key off.
This is a big deal.... "cleaned all grounds and terminals."
I did install the additional ground from DS frame to block. Cleaned all grounds and added an additional ground from DS battery neg to body stud above DS headlight. 12g if I remember. I can take a pic of that ground if you like, but it's plainly visible.
I haven't run the additional positive to positive cable to both batteries thinking it was not all that necessary? I do have a 4g positive cable made up to install from alternator to positive post on PS but was going to install a 30 amp fuse between it. I do know that some are using a fuse and some are not with no issues. I have an extra ground 1/0 made up. I'll install it from at mounting bolt to frame. Additional cable from battery + to battery + will have to be made up.
Alt post to + battery post is not installed yet due to location of alt stud. I bought the 3g extension adapter but ran out time to install it. I was told I might have to take alt apart to put on. Not really crazy about that. Going to check other options on that.
I'll report back once the other cabling is completed.
this picture shows just the alternator, but. The negative on the mounting bolt goes to the body. The additional positive alternator goes to the PS battery +.
I used an eBay seller to buy a 1.0 AWG red colored marine grade tinned cable, came pre-made with tinned connectors. He can make any length you want and shipped fast.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290774638618?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=590080451246&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I used him to make 4 cables; 2 black at 2' each and 2 red, one 2' and one 6'. I mounted the two you see there and two additional cables were, DS frame to block w/2' black and battery DS+ to PS+ for the 6' red cable. Cleaned all grounds to bare metal and coated with a layer of battery/corrosion preventative, even Vasoline will work.
I've been up since 12:45 a.m. waiting for the sun to come up so I can work on my truck again--LOL. I'll add grounds to my list AGAIN. Sometimes I just can't get motivated to do the small stuff anymore.
I've been up since 12:45 a.m. waiting for the sun to come up so I can work on my truck again--LOL. I'll add grounds to my list AGAIN. Sometimes I just can't get motivated to do the small stuff anymore.
I hear ya there!!
I can remember not being able to sleep or working on my truck til 1 in the morning Then couldn't wait to get home from work and doing it again.