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Old May 8, 2014 | 11:13 PM
  #1  
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charging issues

I have a 2000 f250 7.3. New batteries, alternater is about 6months old, cables are clean/tight/in good shape. Started it tonight & noticed the voltage was low, no battery light though. I am away from home so i drove anyway &to watched the voltage slowly drop until i finally parked it before it died in the street.
Anything besides the allternator that could stop it from charging? Can the ecm (?) Cause this?
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 06:14 AM
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Let's define low: When you first start up, the glow plugs are on - this keeps your voltage low until the glow plugs are done. If you live in a warm place, you won't see this, except for a few seconds. I will see that last up to 90 seconds.

I'll assume your drive was longer than 90 seconds, and the temperature was well above zero.

What was your voltage reading? What did it drop to just as you parked it?

Nothing tells the alternator to work - it spins, the regulator holds the voltage at about 13.8, and the battery hogs the juice... if the truck doesn't try to steal it (like with the active glow plugs).
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Tugly
Let's define low: When you first start up, the glow plugs are on - this keeps your voltage low until the glow plugs are done. If you live in a warm place, you won't see this, except for a few seconds. I will see that last up to 90 seconds.

I'll assume your drive was longer than 90 seconds, and the temperature was well above zero.

What was your voltage reading? What did it drop to just as you parked it?

Nothing tells the alternator to work - it spins, the regulator holds the voltage at about 13.8, and the battery hogs the juice... if the truck doesn't try to steal it (like with the active glow plugs).
It was about 50 outside. When the GP relay was running the needle was @ the bottom of the "normal" range. When it shut off it only came up to about the 25% mark inside the normal range. It slowly dropped from there. I parked it when it hit the bottom of the normal range. I assume the voltage i was seeing was from the batteries not the alternator.....
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 08:08 AM
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The alternator is directly on the battery line - through fusible links. Did you by any chance upgrade your alternator to a bigger amperage?
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 09:06 AM
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Check the alternator. I went through two super-duper high amperage alternators (even the old style large case rebuilt Ford alternator) before I went back to the factory Ford alternator. I can't say enough bad things about the highly touted high output rebuilds.

BTW, apparently the IH version of our motor has a different cam shaft which spins a mechanical fuel pump. When my three alternators died on the road I would have liked it if my motor didn't also have to stop because of the lack of electricity to our motor's electric fuel pump...
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 09:14 AM
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Tim...the HUEI need elec to fire as well.
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan V
Tim...the HUEI need elec to fire as well.
Thanks, Dan for correcting my misunderstanding. Well now I know why Ford engineers thought that the mechanical fuel pump was unnecessary. I still get confused with the old school diesel info that a diesel does not need a spark (i.e., electricity) to keep running, with the HUEI system which requires high amps and volts (?) to plunge the injectors. That's why I am still (and likely will always be) "Learning slowly..."

(I am still grumpy about what I spent on alternators though.)
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim Hodgson
...with the HUEI system which requires high amps and volts (?) to plunge the injectors.
Nah. Think automatic sprinkler valves. It take a little bit of electrical power to activate a solenoid to open a small valve (I have one that works on a 9V battery for months). This small open valve allows high-pressure liquid into an area that pushes a bigger part - to really let the liquid flow.

Our HEUI solenoids work on about the same voltage has your living room light, but the wires are tiny. This means the amps are very low.

Caveat: Gassers have spark plugs that use small amperage (albeit with very high voltage), but getting hit with that will still knock the snot out of you... I should know.
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 02:55 PM
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OK so I apologize to the OP for me spinning this thread out of control. But Tugly, didn't I see some thread somewhere or some youtube video that said you could sustain a fatal shock from disconnecting the injector wires while running? I get it that the wires are small, so is there really nothing to fear?
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 03:22 PM
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A heart parth shock of sufficient voltage would do it. You can short a 9 volt battery on your tongue......you might not try that with a 120v battery.
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim Hodgson
But Tugly, didn't I see some thread somewhere or some youtube video that said you could sustain a fatal shock from disconnecting the injector wires while running? I get it that the wires are small, so is there really nothing to fear?
You can get a fatal shock from looking at my Stinky receipts.

I can't remember the exact number, but it takes very little amperage to stop a heart... I saw it on Mythbusters. There are so many variables - proximity of contact to the heart, quality of contact, body chemistry, general health of the heart, etc.... This is one of those "no running with scissors" things.
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 03:44 PM
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Oh... and I'm still here, so that "no playing with sticks while running" thing: I guess I'd better kiss the ground.
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 03:56 PM
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OK, I am not taking a position one way or another because I don't know anything but as a public service announcement I am going to quote the following and then provide the link below.

"The IDM is a high-energy power supply that acts as an energy distributor for the fuel injector solenoids. The injector solenoids require high energy to operate. The IDM boosts the supply voltage up to approximately 115 volts DC. The IDM contains solid-state components, so there are no user serviceable parts or adjustments.

CAUTION: DO NOT PERFORM ANY VOLTAGE CHECKS WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. 115 VOLTS DC AT 12 AMPS PRESENT ON INJECTOR CIRCUITS. DO NO PIERCE BUNDLE. SEVERE ELECTRICAL SHOCK MAY BE RECEIVED. FOLLOW SERVICE MANUAL TEST PROCEDURES. SHIELDED WIRES IN THE RED-STRIPED HARNESS ARE HIGH VOLTAGE AND SHOULD NOT BE PROBED."

TheDieselStop.Com Forums: HEUI Fuel Injection System (Electronic Control Components)
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 09:07 PM
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A 9 volt battery can stop your heart with a blood contact on each hand. We have to check hospital equipment especially in CCU & ICU departments for case ground leaks. Micro-amps can kill patients in those areas. Beer is not an insulator!
 
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Old May 9, 2014 | 11:28 PM
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Well I finally had time and daylight to see what was up. Wiring looked good and the fuses for the charging system were all good. Pulled the alternator (5min), drove to the parts store and had it tested (30min), installed the new alternator (5min) and then sat in the parking lot reading a book for an hour and a half charging the batteries back up to a point it would start. All is good...for now. Thanks everyone for the other ideas of things to check. I would not have known where to go next if the alternator turned out to be good.....
 
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