I ve been noticing that the alternator isn't charging correctly, or at least it seems like it. We drive short trips sometimes two times a day, a mile or less. One day, night actually, I noticed it started to not turn over with it's usual enthusiastic sound. When the batteries get discharged to a certain point, the voltage at idle will be less than 12 volts. If I rev the engine for a bit, the volts jump up, but at idle it drops back to 12 or below. Seems to me that it should be at least 12v or above if the batteries are discharged, and more towards 12.5ishV if the batteries are fully charged.

After I put it on a 6A charger overnight, the voltage upon starting is above 12, sometimes over 13. But if the batteries start to dwindle down from short trips, the voltage drops to 12 or below at idle.

I did install the smaller pulley a few years back, and that helped massively. I couldn't get 12V at idle before installing the smaller pulley. But now it seems like I'm back to that same situation before installing the smaller pulley.

So, I m guessing that a alternator bench test is in my future? The batteries are fairly new, tho they have been down to nothing at least twice from boneheaded moves by yours truely!

And, I'm speculating that this charging situation contributed to the recent FICM replacement that I went thru.

Any suggestions on alternators? I was looking at this one: New OE Leece Neville A160202 2 Alternator | eBay

 

If you still want to do a bench test, then go ahead, regardless your Alt is BAD.

Whatever you do, stop driving the truck immediately!!!

I purchased a DB electrical alternator (135amp) and from day one the voltage was spiking up to 15-16v. After a while and installing an additional ground, it settle down to 14-14.5v. But then I accidentally killed it, being dumb.

Now I have decided to pony up the money, and purchased the 185 AMP DC Power (receiving it tomorrow). I went through Ed @ FICMrepair.com

 

Draboo,

For that short of a distance, you are going to need the L-N alt plus more.

You can get that alternator for less, some have gotten it for around $250 or so from eBay or Amazon. You will also need to add an addition 2ft cable with a fuse from the alt to battery to handle the added current. Use the small pulley you already have and it will start recharging the batteries before the glow plugs drop out.

That will help a lot, but 1 mile between starts is never going to recover the batteries from the discharging during startup. If that is all your driving you are going to need to supplement the charging overnight. The 6a charger might to that ..... But you might need to go higher then that.

I cannot more highly recommend that alternator for your situation. Just get it.

 

Here are screen shots from the video I'm working on today, the L-N with the small pulley. I was just writing the script for why you need a high output alt if you drive short distances about an hour ago.

The first is amps during cranking, you can tell from the cranking voltage. The motor hasn't fired over yet and it's putting out 55 amps at cranking rpm! Thats what the stock 110a puts out at idle.

 

The second. The voltage tells you the glow plugs are still operating, the motor has just started.
200 friggin' amps! At idle!!!!

 

Holy crips Jack!!!!

 

I found a remanufactured Leece Neville for $239 with one year warranty. Will I be taking a chance with a reman?

 

Depends on the rebuilder. With a little searching you can get new for a few more dollars. I'll let those who found good sources tell where they got them.

 

thanks,eh?

 

Type in Leece Neville A160202

10 available on Amazon around $298 with free shipping.

5 on eBay, one out of NY at $239 with free shipping, the same price as the rebuild.

You'll also need for example from Amazon:

 

Why the Leece - Neville 230 alts are the shizit!

Got mine off Amazon, $268.
Google Prestolite 230 amp alternator, should be a few more options to buy from. Could try the part number as well, normally numbers followed by -2 or -3 means an improvement was made to the original design. They may also be listed as VT365, the International motor or as F450/F550 alternators.

 

No Randy, the -2, -3 alters the kit parts with the unit. Worst case you need new bolts.

-2 is what I got.

 

Mine was -2, but seller also told me they're were -3 availible and claimed they were updated units.

Thanks Jack

 

Jack, what's a decent current clamp for a DIY guy, DC and AC? $50-100 or less (if they aren't garbage at that price point). Something the check alt output on the cars, maybe check the current draw of a welder on a cutoff.

 

I have no trouble switching the alternators, but I don't know where the cable and the fuse/terminal goes.

Between the alt and the drivers side battery,perhaps? Or..?

I did get the one off of Ebay for 239

Thanks once again.