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I have read several conflicting accounts of how to control the torque convertor lockup. one place said to send 12v to it to command lockup and another place said to ground the wire in the bundle, i think purple with white stripe, to command lockup as used with the engaging the exhaust back pressure valve for descending hills with a load.
so i have this switch which is lighted when on and trying to figure how to do the TC part.
so i am guessing with no response this type switch is not able to be used or the application. In reading around i seem I need to ground the purple/yellow wire in pin #6 going to trans to lock TC on command.
So was reading about installing diode as well to prevent the flashing OD light. Any thought on that and which way to install diode.
The main problem with simply wiring in a switch to close the back pressure valve and apply the torque converter clutch is that the transmission pressure absolutely needs to be increased to prevent damage. Stock or aftermarket programming commands only 60 psi during deceleration and it's not enough to reliably apply enough pressure to the friction material to prevent slipping.
yes that is true.. I have read from mark to not lock up TC with RPM below 1400 to have line pressure needed.
All i am trying to do with switch is have manual command of TC,, not TC and EBPV.. that will happen with Jodys DP decel tune on my 6 position chip in the future.
guess I will just use a dpdt switch and wire it that way with a couple of leds
QUOTE=cleatus12r;16086465]The main problem with simply wiring in a switch to close the back pressure valve and apply the torque converter clutch is that the transmission pressure absolutely needs to be increased to prevent damage. Stock or aftermarket programming commands only 60 psi during deceleration and it's not enough to reliably apply enough pressure to the friction material to prevent slipping.[/QUOTE]
It's not an RPM problem. Max-ing out the transmission pressure can be done at an idle in ANY range. However, on deceleration, regardless how high the RPM is, the line pressure doesn't exceed much more than 60 PSI. It's easy to fix that...but not cut and dry like "professional tuners" like to think.
is that what the tuger? valve body modification address? I was looking at at a John woods valve body replacement in the near future as well. Woiuld that be helpful or is both needed to address the issue.
Originally Posted by cleatus12r
It's not an RPM problem. Max-ing out the transmission pressure can be done at an idle in ANY range. However, on deceleration, regardless how high the RPM is, the line pressure doesn't exceed much more than 60 PSI. It's easy to fix that...but not cut and dry like "professional tuners" like to think.
Mark, I'm not talking about trying to keep the torque converter clutch applied below 1300 RPM although I can easily make a video of a transmission pressure gauge going well above 240 PSI with the engine at idle in all ranges (it'll pretty much do that in reverse as is). I just have to get a good day at the house to do it. I realize that there's a huge difference between volume and pressure and in no way am I trying to say that a load on the transmission is a good thing at that RPM. I'm simply saying that using the exhaust backpressure valve and having the torque converter clutch applied (especially in 3rd gear as 4th isn't really a problem) on deceleration without making concessions to transmission pressure is a HORRIBLE idea. I know first hand which is why I fixed the problem.
