How long does the Copper anti seize work on the exhaust side of the turbo before needing to be applied again?

Thanks - P

 

I'm not sure, but I think you are supposed to use nickle based anti seize.

 

Yeah, I saw that a lot of people use nickel based rated at 2400 degrees and some use Copper based. I know the copper is rated to 1800 degrees. I'm not worried about that.

 

I assemble them dry and clean

 

I always use copper. Have never had a truck returned, and my personal truck has been going for quite awhile on a coat I put on it. I used to use nickel based AS, but it seems to dry out in the housing and cause the unison ring to stick.

 

Me also, and I've never had an issue.

 

Any anti seize exposed to exhaust flow will be gone in a few hours running time and the burnt residue may cause problems down the road.

 

If that's the case, then whats the point to the 1800 degree rating?

 

I think my issue is that I used the same unison ring that had etching where the vanes are, and it is making the turbo stick, again.

I ran it dry the first time, but then I ordered my new unison ring, and thought that it couldn't hurt to put some copper anti seize in there too. Between knowing the unison ring has ecthing, and my EBP senor being bad (ordered) I will soon get this figured out.

Its all so confusing, everybody does it different, and watching Diesel Tech Ron, he is pretty liberal with the anti seize.

 

My personal truck has a powermax I put on about 460k mi ago,, cleaned it 250k ago and assembled it dry. Never had a problem.

 

One has to ask, Is the reason that they spec nickel is compatibly with the
turbine wheel. Also there should be some dry metal left behind after the
exhaust burns away the grease carrier that the anti-size is made with.
Who knows it could be a small change that you would only see with an
electron microscope. So really just pick you poison.



Sean <BR>

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