Hello...I have been working through ignition system problems on my '68 f250. I thought I had it worked out by replacing the points & condenser, however, after a couple drives it starts having the same surging/loss-of-power/dying problems. I would reset the gap on the points, and it fires right back up, but would be back to having the same issues within a few blocks. One thing I noticed was that the plate in the distributor that the points & condenser mount to has a bit of wiggle to it, while the cam in the middle does not, so I supposed this was changing the ignition gap as it wiggled causing my ignition issues. It was recommended that I replace the whole distributor.

I have a new one, but am having difficulty removing the old one. I have the electrical wire and the collar that holds it in place removed, and it lifts up and disengages easily, but about half way out catches and I can't seem to wiggle it past. I don't see any other bolts or pins that could be holding it in. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I may be missing?

Thank you for any pointers or advice you may have!

Eric

 

Which type of engine do you have? Try asking down on the appropriate forum for more help.
john

 

It is a 390. Sorry if this is in the wrong forum; I thought I had it in the right place...

 

You'll get 'er, one thing to keep in mind, it's easier (when installing the new distributor) to have the engine with the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke. Maybe you know this already. It's also wise to verify "true" TDC with a piston stop and see that the TDC mark on the balancer and pointer agrees. All ignition and valve timing is based on this. If careful with distributor installation it should fire up and idle first time, and then set the initial timing.

 

That sounds like a defective condenser. You sure you didn't accidentally put the old one back in?
While lifting rotate the rotor wiggle it.
TDC for sure!!!

 

I was gonna mention that. Even a new one is suspect if it's not a brand name, good quality unit. Condensers are a critical part. The el-cheapos are junk.

To check for distributor shaft wobble, on most Ford distributors the advance assembly has to be removed. Can usually tell with a dwell meter too, because it won't set/ hold. Ignition scope will show distributor wobble real clearly.

If it has a lot of miles on it, as a practical matter it's probably pooched. I would check any remanufactured unit carefully, the rebulders don't always do a good job. Points will not tolerate much sideplay, basically zero is the spec. Even electronic modules will be affected if excessive wear is evident, though not to the degree mechanical points will.

 

I actually had that same thought, and already bought a second new one to try...same results. Runs great for a little bit then starts the same problems.

 

Where did you buy it, and/or what brand name is on it?

 

Next I would suspect a cracked distributor cap. It may be invisible.
Then plug wires. If you can get it running in the dark you might see errant spark.
oh yeah. Spark in the dark! I think I would try putting my timing light clamp on every wire.

Next: does it act like it's running out of gas? It kinda sounds like it from your description. Check for good fuel delivery. All the way to the tank if necessary.

 

There is a small chance that the oil pump driveshaft is stuck in the bottom of the distributor - the ring on the shaft could stop you as you pull the distributor out. If it is stuck you have to be sure you haven't pulled the shaft out of the oil pump. You should be able to see the shaft if you look down the hole. If it happens to pull the driveshaft all the way out, you will probably be able to get it to re-seat in the pump. If it pulls up and then falls out of the distributor, it may fall to the bottom of the pan.

The upper bearing in my 390 distributor was shot - even moved to much for the Pertronix to work well. A victim of sitting too long. Since you are dropping in a new distributor it would be worth the effort to also dump the points and condenser and install a Pertronix.

I had one FE that the distributor would always stick - poor alignment of the intake manifold. If the engine was warm it would barely lift but if it was cold it would eventually wiggle free.

 

I had checked the fuel supply all the way back to the tank, and it was good (has new fuel lines from the tank to a new fuel pump, as well as a new filter). Also had new distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil, and plug wires. I was able to get the old distributor out, and got the new one dropped in. With my neighbor's digital timing light, we found that it likes 28 degrees. This was my first time timing an engine, but he said that that was an oddly high number, but there was no doubt that's where it ran best. Wondering if the harmonic balancer was incorrectly marked ages ago (the two marks were done by hand at some point in time), or if it may have slipped. Maybe that will be the next project for me to learn.

Once again, thank you all for your help and input; definitely makes learning this stuff for the first time a lot less intimidating. Hopefully I can add some insight at some point in time!

Eric