Duraspark or Pertronix
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 68
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From: tacoma
Duraspark or Pertronix
So I finally set the timing on my 390 in my '69 f250 camper special ranger. That was a task in itself considering the distributor wouldn't budge. After putting the new vacuum advance on the distributor and resetting the points I took it for a spin. The problem seems to be every time I step on it the points lose their gap. Im somewhat familiar with Duraspark I used to drive a '83 f150 302. That seems to be the question Duraspark or Pertronix. I don't mind doing the work to assemble the Duraspark but would I gain much over Pertronix?
The points are goin away. Thanks, Corey.
The points are goin away. Thanks, Corey.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
cjohn, I think both are good choices. I have heartburn with your points loosing setting. I believe you will experience the same should you add the Petronix without replacing the dist.
Getting the dist to move is a must, so weigh it out, you will make a good choice either way.
John
Getting the dist to move is a must, so weigh it out, you will make a good choice either way.
John
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: tacoma
I was able to get the distributor freed up. Just not sure why my points seem to be moving and losing gap. So if my distributor does need to be replaced, whats a good replacement? Something from a newer ford?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
The advantage with a DS system is parts availability in the event a component goes out. Pertonix is supposed to be bulletproof (other opinions may vary but I've run one since 1990 n my 65 'Stang) but you do have the option of keeping the points/parts in a baggie in the glovebox.
Either way going electronic with a simplified system results in a smoother starts, idle, and ignition timing.
Either way going electronic with a simplified system results in a smoother starts, idle, and ignition timing.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 54
From: Antelope Valley ,CA
check the screws that hold the points down , some are shorter than others . if you have them in the wrong place they will hit the advance plate and cause it to not move or jack up your gap setting when vacuum kicks in .
been there done that .
been there done that .
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 884
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From: Bassett Virginia
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Joined: Sep 2012
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Just wondering, when did you install it? I've wanted to try one, but I've been afraid to as you hear all kinds of horror stories about their stuff....the only thing I've ever used of theirs' is the set of solid flat tappet lifters in my cleveland, and that's only because I really trust the individual who suggested them to me.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: tacoma
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 884
Likes: 13
From: Bassett Virginia
Ditch the points! I got my HEI dizzy off of eBay for around $139 WITH already cut to length 8mm wires. Just pull out your old dizzy, slid the HEI in and find a switchable 12V source. Regap plugs to .045, then put on your new wires. Reset timing and your done. Mine is right at a year old now and no problems. Start right up as soon as I turn the key.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: tacoma
Ditch the points! I got my HEI dizzy off of eBay for around $139 WITH already cut to length 8mm wires. Just pull out your old dizzy, slid the HEI in and find a switchable 12V source. Regap plugs to .045, then put on your new wires. Reset timing and your done. Mine is right at a year old now and no problems. Start right up as soon as I turn the key.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 884
Likes: 13
From: Bassett Virginia
You don't need your factory coil.....everything is built into the dizzy under the cap, so you will also end up with a clean look as well. All you have to do is find the wire that supplies 12V as soon as you turn the key on the back of your ignition switch. You then run a wire from that 12V wire you just found to the back of the HEI dizzy cap. Its labeled battery I think???? the other is labeled tach. Simple.
The only downfall is you can't use a factory air cleaner unless you install a 2 inch spacer under the carb because the dizzy cap is a lot bigger than a stock Ford cap. I would install a spacer under the carb on all these trucks anyway....
The only downfall is you can't use a factory air cleaner unless you install a 2 inch spacer under the carb because the dizzy cap is a lot bigger than a stock Ford cap. I would install a spacer under the carb on all these trucks anyway....
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 54
From: Antelope Valley ,CA
I've had mine just over a year too . $140 off ebay with wires
for the 12v i removed my instrument cluster and found the PINK resistor wire .
i found were it ended and went to a regular wire . i tapped in the other ignition controlled wire ( red /green i think) ran a wire from there to were pink ends . 12v to coil.
for the 12v i removed my instrument cluster and found the PINK resistor wire .
i found were it ended and went to a regular wire . i tapped in the other ignition controlled wire ( red /green i think) ran a wire from there to were pink ends . 12v to coil.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: tacoma
Since it is now the weekend again I started looking into a HEI distributor on Ebay for the '69. Im fairly sure its a 390FE (5stud valve covers) . My only question now is, How do I know if I have a 1/4" drive oil pump? Thanks, Corey.