When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just make sure you use an inch pound rated torque wrench that is rated for 300 inch pounds or less instead of a foot pound torque wrench. If you use a ft/lb rated one you risk snapping bolts and that is not fun.
In other words you could use a 300 in/lb rated wrench for all of those specs but not a 100 ft/lb wrench.
Several of the guys on here will hot torque the injector hold down bolts after the initial torque while the engine is cold. Some will go to 125 in/lbs on the hot torque.
Is it common to torque things like valve cover bolts? I generally only torque things like internal bolts. The others I just apply what feels right for the size bolt based on my years as a shade tree mechanic.
Thanks Guys,Good tip on inch lb torque wrench,just bought one for this job,I normally hand torque valve covers,since these having wires running through them,so I will use caution
I wouldn't worry too much about over torquing the valve cover bolts. The bolt holes in the gaskets have steel bushings in them to prevent crushing. The bolts do tend to stick pretty good if they're over torqued, though.
I have a variable-torque 18V impact gun. I set it on minimum torque and spin 'em on 'til she stops. Not very scientific, but it's consistent - and fast.
I wouldn't worry too much about over torquing the valve cover bolts. The bolt holes in the gaskets have steel bushings in them to prevent crushing. The bolts do tend to stick pretty good if they're over torqued, though.
Exactly! I tried to be conservative at 30 ft/lbs....
I wouldn't worry too much about over torquing the valve cover bolts. The bolt holes in the gaskets have steel bushings in them to prevent crushing. The bolts do tend to stick pretty good if they're over torqued, though.
The gasket won't crush, but the valve cover will warp and bend at the bolt holes. I just did my injectors and noticed how bent and warped mine were. No wonder they leaked. Never could figure out why until I spent an hour on each hammering out the bolt holes and leveling the plain. No more leak. I torque them now.
Well, you aren't supposed to use a 36" breaker bar either . . .
Yep, what he said. I use my 3/8 drive on that because that's what I need to get that back bolt so I use it all 'round. I hold my hand ooo two or three inches from the ratchet head and twist 'til they snug up, then I start in the middle of the V/C and work my way out towards the end of the V/C giving them a little more, not much. This is not a situation where they are going to vibrate loose or like an injector or piston rod where precise torque is going to be critical. So far it works fine.