I have done alignments on trucks that were longer than the lift. The rear tires sat on the ramps which would throw off the caster readings a little, but as long as they are even it doesnt matter that much.

 

The dealer might not have wanted to accept the liability for something like that. I'm sure it can be done safely, but they probably went into CYA mode.

 

It's got a 9ft utility bed but actually has 1ft of c channel welded to the rear of the frame. The Vin is w35 which I believe is crew cab f350.

The ford dealer got it up on the lift with 8 inches of flat area behind the rear wheels but the service manager said they need to drive it forward and stop to check it correctly and said that wasn't enough room. I read something about that procedure so I figured they weren't full of it but can't believe they can't accept cc/lb trucks. Winner ford is the largest ford dealer in the state as far as I know.

I dont think the wheelbase is off from normal. Every part I have ordered even 38gal rear tank has fit based on f350. The arms on my dad's 9k lift even reach and safely lift it.

 

I guess I could measure the wheel base tomorrow too. I know the front Axle was over 4200lb or whatever and needed different tie rod ends than anyone stocked

 

Ha, gotta hand it to Ford. W35 indeed means it was born as a 2WD CCLB pickup. Ford in its infinite wisdom CHANGED the meaning of W35 in '99 to mean a 4x4 cab & chassis. http://vehicleidentificationnumber.c...ord-truck.html . So it's indeed the same 168" wheelbase that the dealer claims they saw plenty of. Oh well, probably better you found a small-time guy willing to take it on.

That cash register is the shizzzz. Probably weighs half as much as a Fiat, eh?

 

Theyre being lazy... you can just as easily jack it up and spin the tires. Its to measure the camber, of you which you have waaaayyy too much.

Was an alignment tech as Les Schwab for a while...those guys ought to try doing a 4 wheel on a limo

 

Haha yeah that's why its on a pallet, it gets moved with the bobcat it's definitely over 200lbs. That's the factory installed anti-theft measure.

What would have caused my truck to have so much camber? Could i have installed the center pivot or radius arm bushings wrong? Or could the rear springs be worn causing it to be off? I didnt lift it, just replaced the springs with the 844S ones i think they are a little heavier rate, they were the same height as the one i installed, but that truck is also 8700lbs as it sits and i carry another 1500lbs in the bed up against the cab at times.

 

The ultimate "mobile" point-of-sale station....

Had you just backed up before taking those first pics, by any chance? I don't know if this applies to the 2WD trucks, but the Dana 50 / TTB 4x4 trucks (stock F250s) have a front suspension similar to a 2WD TIB (except they have leaves), and they're famous for exhibiting extreme camber when parked after reversing. I read somewhere that that indicates possible wear somewhere in the suspension, but of course, I killed the brain cells containing the detail information about it. Might not apply to the 2WD trucks at all.

 

I suggested earlier that you have the allignment checked before installing bushings. You may have beenn in spec. You created more work for the alighnment tech.

 

I didnt read the whole thread. Looks like the springs are too tall. Didi you only do bushings? I dont see how bushings could do that, but havent messed with the twin I.

 

I have the old bushing but they had no markings on them, they were really old and rusted. so i figured they would do them no good and i wanted to make sure they would come out and not charged me for 2 hours of labor. I put the new ones in at 0 caster and 0 camber so they can get a true correction and ill help tech find the correct position with the new bushings. There was definietely alot of camber with them.

I did replace the shocks and springs, they were within 1/4" of the heigh of the old springs i removed but they are heavier duty, i believe the ones i removed were equivalent to the moog 844, and the ones i put in are the 844s which has a heavier spring rate.


I also replaced the swap bar end links, sway bar bushings, trailing arm bushings, and the center pivot bushings - boy was that fun by myself haha and im amazed how strong the brake hoses are. I used some creative ractchet strapping, and bolted the wheel on backwards to roll it forward and back etc. I had springs and shocks all removed so everything came out when i did the trailing arm bushings. I didnt replace the ball joints, i couldnt get them to move, and i had already replaced one of the tie rod ends, the other one i couldnt get to move at all so i left it.

Those pictures were taken when i backed into the driveway, i pulled forward and parked and it doesnt look as bad but is still off. It goes in tomorrow at 7:30, i'll let you guys know how far out it is. I've driven in about 300 miles with 0/0 bushings, it seems to wander a tiny bit, pulls a little to the right, but doenst at all feel horrible.

 

A wire wheel on the old bushings will show the markings. They are on the top and in degrees and minutes.

 

In the pictures I posted above the one is wire wheeled I could make out a 3 and a 1 but not in a legible order.

Been here almost 2 hours now they've taken it on 2 test drives so far and just started it a 3rd time. Hopefully they'll get it right and not cost me $500. They laughed in my face when I tried to explain the adjustable bushings in it, and said they do them all the time and just asked me for the sheet I had.

 

Looks like they got it all figured out, $125

 

That looks pretty good. I would have tried to get the camber a little higher so it would be just right when the springs sag though.