Air in the system, do any WOT blasts yet? Could be a bad ICP, unplug it and drive a bit, clear the code when done.

 

Well, on my way home from work today I had no surges on my 30mile drive..... It seems like it's going away the more I drive it???

 

the air in the HPO system is slowly being worked out.

A couple heavy blasts will do it faster.

 

Define "Heavy Blasts" please

I assume WOT runs? I had no surges driving home today

 

Injectors don't like air, either in the fuel or the oil, WOT would be a heavy blast.... moving a large volume of oil through the system will clear the air quicker than normal driving.

 

Today, I had no surges and the truck ran as normal as it ever has

 

Time to follow up on my truck issues for me and fellow search users....

Truck is still having surge issues. It starts fine, but I have noticed since I have owned it, when I start it after she sits.. I see white smoke at start up if I've not started her for a week or so. She runs fine, till recently. I have noticed an occasional surge type issue that started aprox 2 years ago when it was cold. I changed my oil from T5 to T6 and the issue went away. Until my IPR got plugged. Since I changed my oil, repaired my IPR, my truck has had this strange surge at aprox 52 mph @ 1500 rpm. Seems my start up white smoke has become a little more noticable. NOW, I get a code p0264 .....cyl 2 low voltage. I read a thread ....about p0264 and what a nightmere! I am concerned. I can tell my truck is missing and it is especially bad @ 52mph @ 1500 rpm.

My FICM voltage is 48.5 consistantly
My batteries will crap out if I let the truck sit for a month.
Voltage once my truck is running ( start her every other day) is 13.8-14.x
ICP = 650 at idle and no issues there as far as my torque can see.

I had an issue where my truck just plain died, turned out my FICM was not plugged in all the way

My plans are to check my FICM plugs and hit them with some electrical contact cleaner
Check battery voltage
Rev X or archiol?
How do I do a bubble test?

Thanks everyone for the help!

 

Do a buzz test for the injectors. If #2 is failing, you can check it with a meter. You could have someone do a contribution test and then determine if it needs replaced.

13.8-14.x is good, FICM voltage looks good.

 

What is a buzz test and what tools will I need to preform this procedure?


Thank You!

 

I think he means a buz test with a scan tool, but when you turn the key to run the injectors will buz or clatter. If you listen close you can hear if one is not working or low.

.

 

So, this buzz test will kind of give me an idea if my voltage to my injector is working correctly? I currently have torque with a ELM 327 device. Torque is kind of on and off with my phone all of the sudden??? Gonna uninstall it and then install it to see if that is my problem. Thinking of purchasing a new program that does the buzz test.

So far, I really think it is my injector no. 2 by the way it drives. I have noticed that I get a white smoke upon start up, no fluid loss.

I did an egr delete, Ed's FICM, coolant filtration system and VC9 flush, blue spring upgrade, new oil cooler and recently repaired the IPR. I used to get this shuttering when it was cold a few years ago. Changed my oil from T5 to T6 and the problem seemed to go away. Last oil change I added the ford hot shot oil treatment and fuel treatment and now it's shaking @ 1500 rpm. If I pull my foot out of the throttle, then back on,the problem goes away for a short while....but then returns with a code p0264

 

Do you have access to another 6.0 by chance? Your singular 264 code could be indicative of a damaged logic board on the FICM. If you do have access to another truck, I'd suggest pulling out this FICM and trying it in that truck (but not vice versa).

Let us know! If you don't have another 6.0 available, we have full bench capabilities and could test it out for you. Just send it on over.

 

Hi Ed, I actually had you do the work on my FICM a few years ago with the Atlas 40 tune, I'm guessing 2/5-3 years ago.


I don't have access to another FICM


Anything else I can do to test the FICM?


From everything I can see, sounds like an injector. Sounds like a duck...not sure, but I'm digging to see if it is a duck


I"m gonna get the gauge pro to buzz test all injectors. Not sure exactly what that will tell me other than there is a signal getting to the injectors.


My truck idles a little rough and at low rpm around 50 mph @ 1500 rpms, it shakes like mad. I can blip the throttle and it goes a way for a little bit, but then comes back I'm not sure, but since I have ran the HOT SHOT oil tx and fuel additive, the shake has seemed to become worse. The symptoms I've been having had started aprox 1 1/2 yrs ago on a cold day. Changed the oil from T5 to T6 and the problem seemed to resolve. Then it came back and has slowly become worse. I figure if I have to change one injector, I'll rebuild the other 7 injectors and do the nipple cups and O rings too. close to 140K miles on her, I got her with 112.


any help is greatly appreciated!

 

Because your injector code is voltage related, you could check #2 pretty easy with a multimeter. Heres my notes:

Testing the electrical side of the fuel injectors:
ok try this=set up the scanner to do a injector buzz test, make sure there is as littel noise as posiable around the shop so you can hear the injector solenoids click. run the buzz test and listen for the injector solenoids to click.
the test will buzz all 8 then one at a time, numbers 1-8 then it will repeat.
you should here all of them click if so the injector solenoids and wire harness from the ficm is ok. if all click except #2 disconnect the suspect fuel injector connector and test the injector pins for resistance. measure the resistance between the suspected fuel injector pins,component side.
pins 1 and 2 =0.2 to 3.0 ohms
pins 3 and 4= 0.2 to 3.0 ohms
pins 1 and 3=greater than 10,000 ohms
pins 1 and 4=greater than 10,000 ohms
pins 2 and 3=greater than 10,000 ohms
pins 2 and 4=greater than 10,000 ohms
if the resistances are not within specs the fuel injector solenoid is bad and the injector will need replaced.
if the resistances are good you need to check the injector harness and ficm.

BUBBLE TEST
crank the truck over with the upper fuel filter and cap removed. Leave the fuel in the bottom of the filter bowl. Remove the fuel pump and FICM relays or use the starter jumper wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment so the fuel pump and FICM won't be energized. Watch for bubbles in the filter housing while cranking. It may take a few second for them to appear. The idea is compression from the cylinder during cranking is forced back through a mechanically failed injector through the supply line and pops up in the fuel in the filter housing.

My experience is that RevX worked best on cold start injector stiction. The Archoil worked well to quieten down much of the diesel rattle sound and made the truck sound happy. Both are expensive Band-Aids.

 

Thank you for the help! My plan for tomorrow is to do a buzz test with the gauge pro app for my droid. I wish I could do it with the torque app Anyway, if number 2 does not buzz, I may just move the injector clip from number 2 to number 4 to see if it activates number 4. If the buzz test activates number 4 when number 2 should be buzzing, that could lead me to a bad #2 injector. In addition to checking the ohms, that is. Now if number 4 does not buzz with the number 2 injector wring, I'm going to be more suspicious of a wiring or FICM problem.


Now, will the buzz test work if I have one injector unplugged? I figure my number 4 wiring harness will not reach the number 2 injector?


Thank you all for the help!