68 F250 with 360cid 2bbl. I have replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator, hoses, fan and fan shroud. The truck still gets hot at idle. What could be causing the overheating.


Any suggestions appreciated,


Randy

 

Sitting and idling. These ol boys will not sit and idle like the new vehicles.

Is it boiling the coolant or just running the gauge up?


John

 

X2^^
If the coolant is boiling then it probably isn't under pressure. Is the gauge reading high, then going back to normal once you get going down the road?

 

It does not boil. The temp goes up when Idling but goes down when driving. If I shut it off it makes it hard to start again

 

FYI
I have owned this 67 F250 for 40 years and that was an issue no matter what I did

UNTIL


I found out that these FE motors REALLY don't like the retarded timing at idle. I also found out how to WAKE the engine up, give it a ton more power at low RPM's and STOP the cooling problem.

Are you listening?

I was setting the old boy about 4 degrees initial timing. I had a Crane Adjustable vacuum advance unit to allow me to set the advance just so it wouldn't knock..

What I found out was a goldmine to me.

Here you go...I bet it'll work for you too but if you aren't a gearhead you will need help.

These motors will give you much better low end and more manifold vacuum at idle when they are set to about 12-14 degrees initial timing. The problem is that the Motorcraft and Autolite distributors are sent from the factory at 30 degrees MECHANICAL timing. Remember back then we used REAL Gas (106 octane leaded fuel) so the engines ran much cooler in the combustion chamber. Less heat. Less Ping or Knock.

Ok...take 30 degrees mechanical plus the 6 we put in by twisting the distributor while using a timing light and that gives us 30+6=36. (at 36 mine would knock under WOT)
If we tried 30+14=44, the engine would knock upon the hit. 44 degrees would quickly KILL the motor.

My 465 CID Cobra is set RIGHT NOW at 14 degrees initial advance.
But 20 + 14 = 34...BINGO.

Engine has MUCH more response and runs cooler and enjoys higher idle vacuum. NICE

So...Ford engineers were smart.

We can change the placement of the weights inside the distributor to allow 20 degrees mechanical advance instead of the stock 30 degrees.
We then add the needed advance with the timing light.

Got it?

Look up the modification with an internet search.

Enjoy.

P.S. You'll awaken the beast.

Bill

 

Are you setting your initial timing to 6 deg ATDC? If so when you add 30 deg of advance you end up at 24 deg BTDC.

Setting the timing after TDC will reduce the amount time that the hot gasses will stay in the cylinder.