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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Over heating problem

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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 10:04 PM
  #1  
pmoraldo's Avatar
pmoraldo
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Over heating problem

I have a 1981 F250 2wd 351modified that wants to over heat on me but only on days over 90deg and only if i use the A/C and drive for more then 15-20min in city traffic.
I've replaced the t-stat and water pump and have no apparent leaks in the system. The heater core is bypassed and the coolant is in good shape. the fan clutch was removed and a solid block put in its place so fan spins full speed all the time.
It doesn't blow the cap but when I stop for a few minutes then get back in my temp gauge is maxxed out and as I start driving it comes down to about 3/4.

Anybody got any thoughts?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 10:09 PM
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nolan62
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I can only think of 2 things. First, make sure your coolant is at least 50/50. Second, flush the cooling system really good. The passages may be gunked up.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 10:09 PM
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billt28
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Is this the factory gauge?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 10:20 PM
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f100jim
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As billt28 is alluding to, don't trust the factory gauge to tell you that it is overheating.

Do you have a fan shroud on the radiator? Lack of a shroud can cause this problem.
It could also be that your radiator is plugged up so flow is restricted.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 10:21 PM
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Pkupman82
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Good point billt28, the factory guages aren't necessarily the most accurate. I would install a mechanical temperature guage to see the actual operating temp. What degree t-stat did you go with?
John
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:05 PM
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pmoraldo
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Wow you guys rock I appreciate the quick replies
My mix is at least 50/50 I have done a drain and fill not a real complete flush
I am refering to the stock gauge
and yes it does have the shroud on it
and the t-stat is a 165 I live in AZ
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:23 PM
  #7  
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Pkupman82
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Sure thing bud! You may want to pick up an antifreeze/ coolant tester, check and see what your boiling point is. It is possible the ratio is off and that can cause running hot/overheating issues. The fan you are running, is it a fixed blade or a flex type? The fixed type is what you want for maximum pull through the radiator. I would definately concider hooking up a mechanical temp guage, this way you will know your actual coolant temp. I know what you mean about trying to keep it cool in traffic on a hot day. I have a helluva time trying to keep the 460 in my 79 Bronco cool (I am running mech. temp and oil pres. guages) on hot days. When I'm in traffic I try to keep some distance from the vehicle in front of me, this way I still get some air flow through the radiator. It's not uncommon for the truck to hit 210 degrees sitting in traffic, it cools right down once I get moving again.
John
 
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:37 PM
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RAY1986F150
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Take your radiator to a radiator shop and have it cleaned. Many times when vehicles sit for a little while alot of the sediment in the system accumulates in the bottom of the radiator and plugs it up. Has the truck ever sat without being started for awhile? If so, make sure that radiator is freed up.

 
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 12:08 AM
  #9  
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pmoraldo
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I got a coolant tester I'll chk that tomorrow don't know why I haven't yet.
I don't think it has sat for any long periods of time but I've only owned it for a little over a year
 
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 11:57 PM
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First try burping the radiator (if you haven't already) and if that doesn't work...
The stock radiators are garbage. I would get a QUALITY after market one and toss it in. With a 3 core I sit at 190-195 no matter what. Even in jersey turnpike traffic, even with all the other horse ***** problems my truck has.

Its also not really a good idea to have the fan running all the time. Waste of power especially at highway speeds. Also I wonder why you are running a 165 tstat if its not supped up. A 195 should be easily fine with a new radiator, 165 is not the optimal running temp.

Oh and as was stated never trust the stock gauge.

Cheers!

Dimitri
 
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 12:16 AM
  #11  
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AstroFab
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You need to put a 190* or atleast 180* thermostat in. 165* is too low of a temp for a street driven engine. Normal operating temperature should be between 180-215*.

Make sure the lower radiator hose has a spring in it, and is not collapsing under accelleration.

Put a mechanical gauge in so you can keep tabs on the temperature accurately.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 04:51 AM
  #12  
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Greyf100
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make sure you get a MOTORCRAFT 180-192* tstat.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 10:01 PM
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I recently asked a question about having a radiator cleaned and several suggested I can get a new one for what I'd spend cleaning one. A check w/O'Reilly's shows a 3-row for $115.

RAY1986F150 - Do you know of a radiator shop 'round here that you'd recommend? I'm still cogitating new vs used.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 07:03 AM
  #14  
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RAY1986F150
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From: Vine Grove KY
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
I recently asked a question about having a radiator cleaned and several suggested I can get a new one for what I'd spend cleaning one. A check w/O'Reilly's shows a 3-row for $115.

RAY1986F150 - Do you know of a radiator shop 'round here that you'd recommend? I'm still cogitating new vs used.
Not really. I moved down here from kentucky about two years ago and haven't had to mess with a radiator shop. Anymore its just worth it to go buy a new one. I bought a new one for my truck when I rebuilt the motor from Autozone. Keeps mine cool no problems. $115 isn't bad, and its an upgrade! Thats what I did.

 
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 10:27 AM
  #15  
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A new radiator in mine did the trick as well. Easy job and fix.
 
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