Greetings all.......


Ordered my MM 449SS hubs today and was looking over the install thread:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...b-install.html


I have the same OEM hubs that High Intentions is replacing in my 2000 Excursion 7.3l Limited. I am confused at this point.....I know easily done.....but I digress...In his last photo he suggests capping off the vaccum line so you don't have a vaccum leak. If I have to go out and turn my hubs clockwise to lock them and ccw to unlock them, do I have auto locking hubs?

I have the **** on the dash that goes from 4x2, 4x4 high and 4x4 low. Am I to assume if I leave the hubs turned ccw unlocked, when I rotate the dial on the dash to 4x4 high, the hub will rotate cw and lock?


If I do have to cap off the vaccum lines, how is this easily done?


Swmpbgy1

 

The **** on the dash engages the transfer case and the factory ESOF (electronic shift on the fly) By installing the MM you are transitioning the hubs into a true manual set up, making the vac lines to the hubs useless.Capping them off is the best route to eliminate leaks since they are no longer needed at the hubs With the MM hubs if they are in the FREE position and you turn the **** on the dash to 4H, you will still only have 2wd even with the transfer case engaged. You must manually turn the hubs to LOCK position to have 4wd

 

NO , you will have to lock them manually(outside). The best is to remove the old vac lines up to the T on the pass fender & cap off there.

 

The factory Ford hubs have auto and manual operation by design. The auto mode use of the hubs pull a rubber bladder inside the activates the hubs automatically when the system is operating properly, the other option is you can also engage them manually by getting out of the truck and turning the hub at the wheel, then they are constantly fully engaged.

Why the switch tutu the mm manual only hubs?

 

HiZ:

I can no longer manually turn the locks....they are now permanently locked.


HarleyJcs:


When I remove the vaccum line up to the t in the fenderwell, what is best to use to cap it off with? Also, I have to assume the vaccum line to the hub is the same one that I disconnect to attach my zerk grease fitting that I purchased from Snowseeker? If so, what should I use to cap off there?


Swmpbgy1

 

From memory ,

A 3mm vacuum cap and a 1/8 pipe plug.

 

No, the fabricated hub grease fitting gets used in the ABS sensor hole not the vacuum port. The ABS hole gives access to the sealed unit bearing you are trying to grease while the vacuum port only goes into the auto hub area.

 

If I remove the vaccum tube up to the t in the fender well, how do I cap off the vaccum port that goes into the auto hub area??

 

Well you could either pull that hose fitting out completely and replace it with a pipe plug of the same size from the local hardware store or just simply use a rubber vacuum port cover from the auto parts store. Either way is only a couple of bucks (or less).

 

The 1/8 plug that Pirate mentions is the correct size? I guess the front wheels will have to be removed to remove the vaccum tube and is the tube connected in a different location than the ABS port? I guess while I have the tires off, I might as well grease the ABS port. How many tubes of grease will I need to lube both sides? What grade/type of grease?


Thanks all.....


Swmpbgy1

 

I'm not sure about the exact size, I would just take one out and match it up at the hardware store.
When I used my Snowseeker grease fitting I used Mobil 1 red synthetic grease and did both sides with a single tube, about 22/24 pumps per side in my case. Be very careful taking the ABS sensor out as they are plastic and can break if forced too much, little wiggles are the best bet.

 

Yes the fitting is 1/8 pipe plug.

 

Thanks!! Lastly....for clarification purposes.....the ABS port is in a different location than the vaccum port for the hubs? Correct?


Swmpbgy1

 

Same general area but I don't have a picture handy of them. I'm sure in the hub zerk thread there must be a few shots that would show them.

 

Correct, you are removing the barbed hose fitting and replacing it with a pipe plug.

The vacuum cap goes on the plastic fitting in the engine bay.