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Old Jan 26, 2016 | 09:57 AM
  #16  
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Thanks All!!!!


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Old Jan 26, 2016 | 12:43 PM
  #17  
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Have another question..........If my OEM hubs are in the lock position when I remove them, should I install the new MM hubs in the lock position as well?


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Old Jan 26, 2016 | 02:02 PM
  #18  
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It doesn't matter what position the old hub was in.
Install the new hub in the free position.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2016 | 02:03 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
It doesn't matter what position the old hub was in.
Install the new hub in the free position.
Thank you!!


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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 09:52 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by WE3ZS
I'm not sure about the exact size, I would just take one out and match it up at the hardware store.
When I used my Snowseeker grease fitting I used Mobil 1 red synthetic grease and did both sides with a single tube, about 22/24 pumps per side in my case. Be very careful taking the ABS sensor out as they are plastic and can break if forced too much, little wiggles are the best bet.
We3zs:


What was your clue that 22-24 pumps of grease was enough per side?


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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 12:08 PM
  #21  
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That's when the unit bearing became full, you will see a little grease start to ooze out of the seams and the resistance may increase a little. Following my bearing greasing I had very little flung grease from the slight ooze out. be sure to keep spinning the hub around as you pump the grease in.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 12:34 PM
  #22  
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where to cap off
 
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 09:35 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by The2003Excursion

Based on the photo, will I only need to block off one port for both hubs?


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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 07:24 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by swmpbgy1
HiZ:

I can no longer manually turn the locks....they are now permanently locked.

hub is the same one that I disconnect to attach my zerk grease fitting that I purchased from Snowseeker?


Swmpbgy1
What is this???
What a great Idea see! When I replaced the hubs on my 00 I thought why isn't there a way to use this passage that would just collect water and gunk going right to the hub and Filled with Grease! So, Snoseeker it is
 
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 09:32 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by swmpbgy1
Based on the photo, will I only need to block off one port for both hubs?


Swmpbgy1
Yes, correct.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2016 | 01:31 PM
  #26  
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Greetings Gents.....and Ladies.........


After several months with the Mile Marker hubs, I have come to realize that my front end has a NASTY rattle when I hit bumps in the road.....a kind of hollow sounding rattle. I have checked everything, even replaced the front shocks twice tracking down the rattle. Sunday afternoon I was putting the passengers wheel back on after replacing the shock. I bumped the hub and reproduced the rattle that I have been hearing.


I can wiggle the entire hub by hand.....the 6 allen head screws are tight. I pulled the 6 screws out and put some grease around the o ring....helps minimally.


Any ideas?????


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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 07:40 PM
  #27  
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Greetings all......


Well I returned the mm hubs today.....I put the old oem hubs back on and the rattle is gone.....


The manager at Advance asked if I installed the conversion kit with the hubs....I said no....didn't know there was a conversion kit.


Would the conversion kit have eliminated the rattle??? Do the Warn hubs require a conversion kit as well??


Thanks.........
Swmpbgy1
 
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 08:31 PM
  #28  
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Everything I'm reading states that no conversion is required for the Excursion.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 10:51 PM
  #29  
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Sorry you went through all that trouble, but glad you found the rattle
 
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Old Jul 30, 2016 | 06:37 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by hwybee22
Sorry you went through all that trouble, but glad you found the rattle
The manager at Advance gave me a great price on the Doorman OEM style hubs.....$110 each. Cheaper than rockauto by $31. I think they listed for $229 each at Advance and they have a lifetime warranty.

Thanks all......
Swmpbgy1
 
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