I would like to add this. To check a mechanical fuel pump. You need a vacuum/pressure gauge, very reasonable to buy at an auto parts store. With the pump on the engine, both the inlet and out let lines disconnected. 1st attach gauge to the outlet port(to carb) crank the engine and observe the gauge PRESSURE until it peaks, stop cranking. It should be between 4 and 7 lbs, depending on what your pump is suppose to max at. The gauge should HOLD STEADY with a slight slow drop after awhile. If yes, this tells you the outlet valve is good, the diaphragm is good, and the camshaft is operating the pump properly. Next remove the gauge and hook it to the inlet port (to gas tank). Crank the engine over till the gauge gives you the max VACUUM reading, stop cranking. It could be 7 to 15 inches. What you want to see is the Vacuum reading hold steady, if yes the INLET valve is good. If neither valve holds its vacuum or pressure you probably have a bad diaphragm.

You can do this test with any pump off the engine, hook up the gauge and operate the pump with your hands.

Also most vehicles don't have a filter before the pump, so any debris in the tank has to go thru the valves in the pump and could get stuck in or cause wear to the valves and seats.

 

The piston - once the intake rocker/valve closes the piston is already on its way back up so it only takes ~1/4 turn of the crank to bring the piston to TDC.

 

Ok I have done that and it's still not starting and I'm getting backfire out the exhaust and I checked it with timing light and noticed that the more it cranked the more the timing mark wasn't lining up

 

I don't know about six bangers, but it's common over time for V8 vibration damper rings to slip off their clock due to rubber rot, so that the timing marks are no longer even close to accurate. Not saying that's the issue here but verify #1 piston @TDC on compression stroke and check damper indication for TDC.

Then double check everything from this point forward - wires, firing order, distributor, etc. Mistakes are common, happens to everyone.

 

Yea I have checked all that been messing with this for almost a month any other comments will really help

 

You know, you only said you rebuilt your inline 6. What year and engine are we talking about here? A 61 thru 64, 223. A 65-66 240 or 300?

Did you remove the front cover and inspect or replace the timing gears/chain? If so did you align the crank and the cam to be in time as per repair manual instruction?

223, solid valve lifters, did you set clearances as per the manual? 240-300 hydraulic valve lifters, did you adjust the rockers to position the lifter bodies correctly?

 

Yeah well, sounds like you got 'er all figured out then?

 

Is there anyway to lineup the timing marks on the cam shaft gear and crank shaft with out taking it apart

 

NO you have to remove the cover.

And.................... the questions I just previously asked

 

Ok I finally got it to start now I got a flame and backfire out the carburetor

 

You have A TIMING ISSUE. And you refuse to answer questions posed to you. We can't help you if you won't help yourself. Good Luck.

 

Ok I answered the timing question and it's a 81 f250 with the 300

 

Backfire out the carb could also be a lean condition. Check for vacuum leaks. I forgot to clean the intake flanges and had massive leaks at the gasket face around #1 & 2 and it was backfiring out the carb. Will the engine rev and hold rpm once it starts?