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Ok so I'm doing plug, wires, rotor and cap. Labeled the new cap with where the previous wires went... But decided to check my Haynes manual to make sure they were right.
I have never touched a distributor before in my life.
The black dot is Cyl 1 according to Haynes, my finger is touching where the PO had the Cyl 1 wire it appears it is two studs clockwise in the wrong direction.
Can anyone confirm? Will restoring the wires to the correct locations cause any issues now that it has been running in this order?
The #1 plug wire terminal at the distributor cap can be any one of them, provided the plug wires are installed in proper firing order from that point. The distributor doesn't care. If you want to set it up according to Hoyle though, roll the engine over till the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Then stab the distributor in the engine, the distributor rotor needs to point to the #1 terminal when distributor housing is fully seated.
Check first to see that the damper pointer and "0" mark on the inertia ring coincide when #1 piston is at TDC, this is a common defect as the rubber "sandwich" inside the damper tends to dry rot, the heavy steel outer ring will move off index and along with it, the timing marks. Causes much head scratching when trying to set initial ignition timing.
Check first to see that the damper pointer and "0" mark on the inertia ring coincide when #1 piston is at TDC, this is a common defect as the rubber "sandwich" inside the damper tends to dry rot, the heavy steel outer ring will move off index and along with it, the timing marks. Causes much head scratching when trying to set initial ignition timing.
Spinning her I get a big puff of air out the first cyl spark plug hole right about here. That mark though is long gone though. It must have been set up right by the PO then. This is close to that stud he had 1 on.
Usually the best way is with a tool called a piston stop. But if you're confident that the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, and confident all is well with the damper then the timing pointer should line up exactly on the "0" TDC mark. Stab the distributor with the engine at TDC on the #1 piston, the air rushing out is proof you're on the compression stroke and not exhaust stroke. Since the distributor gear and cam are helical cut teeth, you'll have to lead it a bit ahead of the #1 cap terminal when installing. It helps to hold your tongue just right. Don't force it, but sometimes it takes a little finagling and some choice words. Make sure the housing is seated all the way, and the rotor should be pointing right where the #1 terminal lives when the cap is put back on.
Edit: I'll let the sixers chime in on that, I just gave very generalized information. If you don't have accurate timing marks it's tough to set the initial timing. One issue that can arise with using a different cap terminal as the #1, the distributor housing will not have enough clearance to set the timing, that's why people move the wires around on the cap in the first place, because they didn't initially stab the distributor while the engine was at #1 piston TDC, compression stroke.
Edit: I'll let the sixers chime in on that, I just gave very generalized information. If you don't have accurate timing marks it's tough to set the initial timing. One issue that can arise with using a different cap terminal as the #1, the distributor housing will not have enough clearance to set the timing, that's why people move the wires around on the cap in the first place, because they didn't initially stab the distributor while the engine was at #1 piston TDC, compression stroke.
A 4cly, 6cly or a v8 - setting them on TDC is the same. Pull #1 plug, turn the motor over with finger over the plug hole till it gets pushed off.
You can then put something soft in the plug hole and turn the motor over by hand till the piston pushes it all the way out and just starts to drop.
You can then look at the timing marks to see if they line up to TDC.
I have not seen one that has moved so I would say you would be ok. If it did move I would think the motor would shake as the balance would be off.
Now being on TDC you can see where the rotor is pointing and if not pointing to where you want it to point to you will need to pull the dist. turn the rotor and drop it back in.
Just know that when you drop it in the rotor will turn a little till seated.
Dave ----
Before I stepped away to take care of the family what I had done was I put my finger over the plug hole for the first cylinder and I turned her by hand until I had are rushing out and then I continued to turn her until I hit resistance figuring that would be where piston number one was at the top and I stopped and then I looked at the indicator and there was no marks, but the distributor rotor had stopped where the previous owner had cylinder number one.
Before parked the engine did give a good shake now and again but it wasn't like it was rattling out of the truck the entire time.
I have not seen one that has moved so I would say you would be ok. If it did move I would think the motor would shake as the balance would be off.
Dave ----
It's very common for old dampers to slip on V8. Now even if the ring hasn't moved off index, the elastomeric (rubber) has hardened to stone over the years and can no longer do its job. It can cause problems, at least in theory, cracked or even broken crankshaft. I would suspect oil leaks would be another problem (crankshaft seal), and probably beats the hell out of bearings. There is a specific RPM where a crankshaft reaches what's called resonance, this is what the damper is designed to attenuate, by the weight leading and lagging, an engine crankshaft actually twists a couple degrees back and forth under load and deceleration. Pretty cool huh?
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