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Hello guys, my 1975 f100 is getting real loose in the steering. I'very checked the suspension and everything seems up to par...what are some of you guys using to fix the problem? It's 2wd, 302, automatic by the way...
Hello guys, my 1975 f100 is getting real loose in the steering. I'very checked the suspension and everything seems up to par...what are some of you guys using to fix the problem? It's 2wd, 302, automatic by the way...
My 77 2wd is a little lose in the steering also, the most likely culprit is the rag joint. I haven't gotten around to replacing mine yet. You can look under the hood and rotate the steering shaft by hand and you can usually see if there is any slippage going on. Double check the 2 nuts on the joint to make sure that they are tight.
I am not sure how the 2wd front suspension and steering is set up, but another culprit could be the trac bar mounts. I agree the rag joint should be replaced first and see if that solves the problem.
My Bronco steering was all over the place for years. When I decided to do a frame off restoration I found that the trac bar mounting hole on the frame was well worn allowing the bolt to move 1/16" to 3/32". That is a huge amount when it comes to having tight steering.
Long time reader, but first post, so be gentle here.
I went the RedHead steering route with my 74 F-100. I have to say that the box I finally got was really nice, made a dramatic difference for the better. But, just as a word or warning I do not think I would recommend buying from them.
The first box they sent me had what appeared to be an issue with the control valve. When installed and driven, the steering had no return to center in fact the wheel would just stay where ever you left it when you let go. More spectacularly, if one turned the wheel and let go, it would continue to the opposite lock by itself.
Had to call them 4 times over two weeks, the first three they brushed me off with the "air in the system" line. Finally on the 4th they agreed to send me a new box, postage paid both ways. The only stipulation is they insisted on hitting me with another 150 dollar core charge to make sure the defective unit was returned. OK, now I am into them for 300 bucks in cores and 300ish for the box - seems a little excessive, but Redhead has a sterling rep on here, so no complaints here yet.
So I get the new box, get it installed and it works great, just as described on many posts here. I am happy as a clam, this thing works great. But now the issues start, I sent them back the core for the defective unit, but got no credit for the extra 150 they charged me. So I wait almost a month, call and ask. The guy on the phone is really nice, tells me they need another week or two to "inspect the unit" before they credit me. So I wait.
Finally I get the invoice in the mail, and they only credit me 50 bucks back as the claimed that I had removed the top cover bolts and adjusted the steering lash. So, I call them and explain that on my truck the brake combination valve bracket mounts to those bolts on top of the steering gear so they had to be R&Red to install the box. I also indicated that I would have had no reason at all to adjust the lash and had not touched it. The guy this time was pretty much a jerk and told me in no uncertain terms that I was SOL as he did not care what it took to install unit and he was certain that I had adjusted the lash. I had good communication up to that point, literally this guy was a foul mouth jerk.
So, to make a long story short, the 300 dollar box turned into a 400 dollar box. On top of that I got to install it twice.
So your mileage may vary, but just my two cents - the steering box from RedHead is quality wise is one of, if not the best I have ever gotten. But from a customer service perspective, well you may wind up paying more than you think. By the time I got done, I had paid enough to buy 4 of these from the parts house - honestly I think if I had to do it again I would go that route, as I am sure one of those 4 would be good with far less hassle then buying from Redhead.
+1 on the rag joint. I really thought mine was OK, but I replaced it anyway as a last ditch effort to avoid the $$$ of a redhead and because I had the power brake booster out anyway. Wow, major improvement I was not expecting. I am pretty sure if I just tighten up the bearing preload on the box a bit, I can live with it this way and save the money for a new box. It actually holds the road now!
Suggest you go very easy on tightening up the pre-load on the box. If you can tighten just a little and get some slop out great. If you go too far, it can wear the box - basically kill it - and cause binding. T
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