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Header Install EGR Delete

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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 03:27 PM
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Header Install EGR Delete

Whats up guys. I got some Hedman Headers going on my truck (1994 Ford F150 4x4 302). I've removed the original exahust manifolds as well as the cat, but I'm having trouble removing the existing Y pipe that's on there now because of the EGR stuff. Is there anything I can do with the EGR? I've tried removing whatever is going into the Y pipe but it is metal on metal and in there pretty good. Any ideas would be suggested as this is holding me back from bringing the truck to the muffler shop to get a custom Y pipe made for the long tube headers and getting back on the road
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 04:14 PM
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That is not the EGR going to the converter, it's part of the air injection system. The air (smog) pump is pumping air into the converter to shorten the warm up cycle. All of the associated metal and rubber tubes as well as check valves can be removed. Plug the holes on the back of the heads and leave the TAB and TAB solenoid electrically connected to keep the Check Engine Light (CEL aka MIL) light happy.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by rla2005
That is not the EGR going to the converter, it's part of the air injection system. The air (smog) pump is pumping air into the converter to shorten the warm up cycle. All of the associated metal and rubber tubes as well as check valves can be removed. Plug the holes on the back of the heads and leave the TAB and TAB solenoid electrically connected to keep the Check Engine Light (CEL aka MIL) light happy.
X2 I also installed a smog pump pulley delete pulley from summit. I think they aroung $50. Unneeded and if you have a visual inspection I would love the smog pump on there and just remove the tubes.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 04:29 PM
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I have tried taking a look back near the firewall but it's hard to get back there. As as removing everything, can I just remove EVERYTHING and leave the air pump open or something? Not sure what I'm looking for with the TAB and TAB solenoid.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 04:31 PM
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You can leave the air pump in place and let it exhaust into the atmosphere should not hurt anything. You definitely need the bolts in the back of your heads.

Ill take a pic of my TAB and TAD.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 04:33 PM
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Here is the tab and tad you need to leave hooked up.


Here is the smog pump delete pulley.

 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 04:36 PM
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Thanks for the pics. In between my last reply and yours I've been reading up on it. What I'm going to do for now is just remove everything I can without removing bolts (cutting hoses, etc) and not touch anything electrical. Once I get around to it I'll take care of the pulley. Wll this be okay?

A bit off topic but what is that can that looks like a large bean can for?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 04:42 PM
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What large bean can looking thing? The fuel pressure regulator or the coil???

So they don't have the air injection holes but does the one that goes on the passenger side have the EGR tube? What headers did you buy?

This thing:
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 04:48 PM
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My headers certainly don't have O2 bungs or a bung for the EGR tube. I got the Hedman 89350 long tube headers.

The bean can is on the passenger side - certainly not the coil.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 04:52 PM
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Oh that bean can. Mine is a 94 so its a plastic one and not the metal bean can ones pre-94. You will want to leave it hooked up as long as its not leaking. I can't remember the function I think has carbon in it to clean the air in the vacuum or something? but everyone said to run one.

Yeah if you don't want a CEL and you don't want your engine to run like crap. You need to leave all the electrical in place and still leave a vacuum hose to the EGR but you can put a penny in the bottom of it or in between it and the intake to effectively shut it off I believe. I am not sure as I left mine in place since my headers had the tube but I did do a smog pump delete and put the bolts in the back of my heads.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 04:56 PM
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Also since your going long tubes and getting a custom exhaust anyways just have them weld an O2 bung into the exhaust.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 05:05 PM
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EGR tube hooks up to the lower intake msnifold on a 5L truck engine. 5.8L engines hook up to the passenger side exhaust maifold.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 05:09 PM
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Learned something new today!
 
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 11:54 AM
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So I got the old Y pipe out and the headers installed! The truck sounds mean with open headers. What I ended up doing with the air/smog stuff was just cut the rubber hose that attaches the Y pipe to whatever assembly is behind the intake manifold. I left everything else in place, so all I see happening is what would have been going into the exhaust is just going between the motor and the firewall.

What type of sound and torque can I expect running the LT headers into a single pipe going to my existing flowmaster super 50 muffler without a cat? This 5.0 is in need of any torque I can get so that's what I'm going for. If you guys have any suggestions as to what size piping etc I should run please chime in.

Only problem I ended up having after the install was taking it for a ride (a long one, I was excited) and the paint burned right off the headers. Pretty disappointed about that. I got back home and was doing an oil change on the Ms. car and the oil filter is stuck, so she had to take the truck with open headers to work today, she wasn't too happy about that.
 
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