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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Shop Compressor Installation Design

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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 08:05 AM
  #61  
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Ok, using both ports on the reservoir tank was an after thought. I had already installed just a T where the reservoir will be located. Now I suppose I am going to cut it with my porta band (band saw) shortly after the T. There is no way I can get my pipe cutter in there and rotate it. Hopefully I can cut it straight enough that my ratcheting threading tool will go right on it and work. I will install a 90 degree elbow where the T was and add another elbow opposite of it. I also have two of these in my possession:




(not exactly the exact units but similair)

I am not sure where to put them yet though.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 08:16 AM
  #62  
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As long as those units are just regulator/filters and don't have oilers then put one of them at the outlet of the A-coil to trap water. But, crank the regulator up so it doesn't drop the pressure - or take it off completely so there's no flow restriction. And, put the other at the outlet you use most so you can control pressure there.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 08:24 AM
  #63  
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You definitely want a water separator after your coil/cooling and before the tank. Keeps a huge amount of water out of the tank. Additional water sep/filtration at regulator off tank.

What do you guys like for water separators, filters, and regulators? I am impressed with the quality of the massive Norgran water sep I have so considering Norgren for additional filtration but also considering Parker and others.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 09:03 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by cadunkle
You definitely want a water separator after your coil/cooling and before the tank. Keeps a huge amount of water out of the tank. Additional water sep/filtration at regulator off tank.

What do you guys like for water separators, filters, and regulators? I am impressed with the quality of the massive Norgran water sep I have so considering Norgren for additional filtration but also considering Parker and others.
I have to say I am a LOT lax in that department.
The only water separator(s) I have is the fin tube cooler after the tank with drip legs and the Rapid Air piping around the top of the shop and drip legs at the air outlets.
When I get to laying on finish coats of paint on the body or if I am getting water out of the tools I am using I will them pick something up.


I know some guys use water separator on their system and when they go to lay down finish paint job have filters they plug in like an air hose between system & hose. This way they are not using up the filter to do body work when good filtered air is not needed.
Dave ----
 
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 03:07 PM
  #65  
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That would likely be dessicant filters, which the media absorbs water and must be heated or replaced to continue to work after it has absorbed enough water. I'm referring to standard filter/seaparator or coalescing filters that never wear out, just drain the water and keep going. Those types are good enough for general shop air. The real fancy stuff so far as drying and really fine filtration is for paint.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 12:00 PM
  #66  
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More plumbing and planning being done. I am 90% finished. I am going to have some lines made from HD air hose to connect the compressor to the condenser and the reservoir onto the manifold. Also at the end by the door I am going to add a self retracting air hose.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 12:48 PM
  #67  
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Sounds like it is coming together.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 07:35 PM
  #68  
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I am currently trying to organize and straighten the shop up so I can take some pics when I get it finished.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 07:44 PM
  #69  
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Sometimes that is a Herculean task. But, when it is done it is sooooo much easier to work in the shop.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 10:07 AM
  #70  
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i dont think shops are ever straightened except for the day after you build it.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 10:19 AM
  #71  
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Mine goes through phases. And, those phases seem to be magically aligned with visitors coming to the shop.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 05:08 PM
  #72  
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Mine too. A pain when one project you want to do starts another that needs to be done before the initial project can be completed as you wanted. Then of course halfway through the first two shop projects you need to do some vehicle maintenance projects... Gotta get messier before it gets cleaner, right?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 05:15 PM
  #73  
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That is where I am at Cadunkle. Both trucks are ready for an oil change and the little girls car needs pads on the rear.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 05:47 PM
  #74  
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In a way I'm blessed that I have a kid's coming every Wednesday, so I need to have the shop ready for them. Plus, I'm helping a friend put a lift kit on a Cheby later this week. Can't mess it up too much or I can't get it back in shape.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2016 | 09:10 PM
  #75  
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I got the disconnects mounted, the receps attached, terminated and all of the MC wire run.
All that remains is fishing the wall to tie the run into load center and install the breaker.





50 amp 220 V recep for the welder. This one is mounted at the front so I can weld outside if need be.

I looked all over town for a brown 20 amp switch , but I couldnt find one. They are 35ft apart so I suppose it doesnt matter.



20 amp 220 volt recep for the compressor. This one is at the rear of the shop. The compressor doesnt have any kind of on/off switch. This is why I went with the fusible disconnect with switch.
 
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