I would point all of the take-off tees up, and the last one down with a ball valve.

 

That's why a drop ear ell and a street tee work so nicely.

You can thread your couplers right into it.

I had one drip leg at the beginning of the loop around the shop and one at the end.
Pitch takes care of everything in between.

 

The fin tube was bought at a scrap metal yard it was all he had on hand the day before he cut up & scraped a bunch.
Close up of my fin tube dryer, bottom is close to you in the picture. Air from compressor comes in on the left side elbo and goes up the fin and across the top down the next fin. At the bottom you can see I added a drip leg before going up the 2nd fin to the top and across again and down the last fin. I also pulled the hose off in the middle of this last drip leg.


In CT on a 90*f day with 99%rh (it was raining) using 2 fans blowing across this dryer it worked great.
Dave ----

 

Here is the compressor. I thought the psi was higher , but I guess not:

 

Here is the 30 gallon unit I am going to strip and use as a reservoir:

 

This is a shot of the OD measurement of the "A" coil's line I am planning on using:




The calipers in the pic sat .409", but when I got them squared up it was more like .394".
So, perhaps the ID is .375"?

 

Bruno2 What is the CFM@PSI rating of that compressor? The only thing that first picture is showing is max psi of tank (140) and what I think is the on/off psi (120/90) of the factory switch. Neither one tells us what the out put is of the unit.


Now the other shows a rating of 8.6cfm@40psi and 6.4cfm@ (guessing)90psi.
The 11.9 I guess is with out any psi that means nothing. Most do the cfm@90psi.


For the coil it looks like you are also measuring the insulation when getting the OD. I am thinking with the readings you gave the ID is about 1/4". Could this be a restriction? Maybe but not knowing the rating of the compressor and what you plan to be doing with it it is hard to say but a guess would be YES.


Also you said you want to go Compressor> Coil> Tank> Hose. As someone said how you going to drain the water from what the coil is taking out before the tank?
I also don't see this working the way you want it to, to keep the compressor from turning on/off a lot. All it will do is run longer to fill the 2nd tank and maybe a little longer before it starts back up. I don't see you gaining anything with the 2nd tank.


Again not knowing what you want to do with the compressor I would say it is a good home owners unit to run a impac gun and blowing up tires that is about it.
To know what you need for a compressor check all your air tools for the CFM@PSI rating. Find the one the uses the most CFM@PSI and that is the min. compressor rating you need to keep that tool running and the compressor would NEVER shut off.
If you want the compressor to shut off when using the tool the compressor has to have a higher CFM@PSI rating than the tool.


You know what they say......CFM cost money!
Dave ----

 

Yes SCFM @90 is what you're looking for.
It's single stage so don't expect high pressures or many feet delivered.

This is not going to keep up with sanders or a blast cabinet.

 

Actually, single stage compressors give more CFM than similarly-sized 2-stage compressors. That's because both pistons are used to provide air to the output, where 2-stage compressors have one piston pumping to the other cylinder and that one to the output.

When I bought my compressor the tech I spoke to at Eagle explained that to me and, after asking what type of tools I use, pointed out that I need CFM and not PSI. Nothing I use needs more than 100 PSI, and certainly not the 175 PSI the 2-stage compressors usually give.

 

"Similar sized"
But how do you compare a two stage (which has one large and one small cylinder)?

Higher pressures are nice with tools like impact wrenches.

I don't know if I could do with less that 13scfm @90
My IR is rated at 19.x and it seems not enough at times.

 

Eagle sells compressors with basically the same sized cylinders in two configurations:

• Parallel: Both cylinders pump into the tank
• Series: One cylinder pumps into the other, which then raises the pressure.

I say "basically" since sometimes the 2nd cylinder is smaller. But, I could have gotten a compressor with ~20 SCFM or one with 30 SCFM at the same price. Yes, the first one puts out 175 PSI, but the 2nd one puts out 125 PSI - which is more than any of my tools needs.

 

And by the time 175 is regulated down to 90psi shop air you are right back at the higher cfm...

They make one cylinder smaller because the second stage cylinder would take too much torque to compress given the pressure it is starting at.
You don't get compounding if one cylinder is displacing into a cylinder of the same volume.

 

I'm lost. CFM is the equivalent of amps, and PSI is the equivalent of volts. Placing a regulator on a high voltage system doesn't give any more current. The same is true of regulating PSI down.

In other words, a 2-stage compressor that puts out 20 CFM @ 100 PSI, but will pump up to 175 PSI, will only put out 20 CFM @ 100 PSI. I don't need anything above 100 PSI, but do need the CFM. So, instead of buying a 2-stage compressor I bought a single-stage for the same money, and I get 30 CFM @ 100 PSI.

 

If you are saying rated at xx scfm@100 psi for both compressors, then yes you're right.

If you are saying 30@100 & 20@175 then I am.

But I guess I am not thinking straight because of this sinus pressure.

 

Both were rated at either 90 or 100 PSI. Probably 90. It was an easy choice.