Here are the specs via:JLA FORUMS - REQUEST DENIED!

Sanborn Manufacturing Company - MAGNUM FORCE 5 HP Vertical Air Compressor

PROFESSIONAL CLASS - MODEL G500BPL60V



WHAT A DEAL $450 For an ABSOLUTELY LIKE NEW Compressor !!!!



Specifications:

Tank Size - 60 Gallons Vertical ASME

Air Delivery - 12.7 CFM @ 40 PSI

10.6 CFM @ 90 PSI

Maximum Pressure: 120 PSI

Voltage/Amps: 208-230/15



Operates These & Other Tools 'Intermittently' for EASY & Efficient USE

* Spray Guns * Sandblasters * 3/8" Ratchet * Nail Gun * Texture Pistol * Cut Off Tool * Impact Wrenches * Sanders * Air Hammer * 3/8" Drill * Mini Grinder * Airbrush Kit and many others.



Featuring:

* Meets ASME, SCA, UR Requirements

* Heavy Duty Dual Capacitor Spread Voltage motor with manual reset switch

* Manual Thermal Overload Protection

* Single Stage Twin Cylinder Pump with Precision bored CAST IRON Sleeves

* Industry Quality all metal belt guard

 

Keep in mind I only paid $125 for this compressor.

 

There's a guy who goes by 'fixinair' or something.
If you post this in the garage & workshop forum he will tell you more than you need to know.

 

i had that same compressor

so is the 3/4" copper pipe really able to handle the pressure of a shop compressor?

 

This design really interests me, and hearing the results, I'm going to check around for some of this finned tubing. One thing I found out is when building a drier, is you need a pressure drop (starting with smaller line, going to larger line, then back to a smaller one). This really helps a lot for getting the moisture out of the air (makes it condense). What is the pressure rating for the copper tubing?

 

I am sure it is way more. Copper and aluminum tubing handles the over 300 psi of head pressure generated from AC units. Your compressor is a bad motor scooter if it puts out more than that.

 

Haha, nope, it's set at 120 psi. It's not gonna be too long before it needs to be replaced, but for now, it's a trooper and just keeps on running. Thanks.

 

Alright, then yes, you are golden

 

Great read!

 

To get the water out of the air you HAVE to cool it.
I do it by taking the heat out of the air running it thru the fin tube piping. It also works better if I have air blowing across it to pull the heat away and why I have box fans.


This was proved when I lived in CT and the compressor & dryer where at the back of my small garage with vary little air flow. When I was getting water out the hose, I was working at garage door end, and walked back to see what was going on I was hit with the heat trapped back there. Set the fans up and all was good.


As for the pressure drop for removing water it works like A/C and the gases going thru an expantion valve.
Do a search for franzinator air dryer birth of a franzinator - Shop Floor Talk
This work that way and you can find plans to make one. Think is it take a lot of math and is hit or miss it works and why I went with the fin tube.
If you have the room you could run the fin tube down the wall. Again this was made for my small CT garage and moved to my large NC one.
Any way you can remove the heat from the compressed air you are going to remove water. Thing is you have to trap that water after the air cools.

As for the tubing holding the PSI I did not fear the tubing but my solder joints! I don't remember what it can hold, do a internet search, but I knew it would hold the 175psi my compressor puts out.
I also worked in a few shops that used copper tubing, think 1/2" so I knew the tubing could hold it.


BTW I was doing body work, sanders, air grinders & paint gun spraying restoring a car and why I built the system I have. You gat spoiled after working in shops that have good air systems.


The compressor was an Ebay buy used. With some parts (check valve & starter contacts, head gaskets & reed valves) it needed I am into for about $1000, new goes for over $5000
Dave ----

 

Oh hell. MY 34cfm is rated at 150psi

 

is that one of them tow behind IR to run jack hammers

Link to specs of mine
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
Dave ----

 

No I have one of those too. Ingersoll 175. It has a 3 cylinder Deutz diesel 175cfm at 100psi (that is what I use for sandblasting)

My electric compressor is a Quincy QT-10 10HP(electric) 2 stage 4 cylinder 34cf @ 150psi

 

Brandon - 11 CFM at 90 PSI is adequate for a lot of things. I ran my blast cabinet for years with essentially the same Craftsman compressor you have, and it only gives about 1/2 that. Yes, I had to wait for it to build up frequently, but it worked. So I think you'll be fine with it. And, with the extra tank you'll have a head start when you have both tanks full at 140 PSI.

 

Got sick of my compressor making more water than air. I used a Hayden 1260 trans cooler and Norgren water separator. Works very well but does get heat soaked with enough continuous use. Have a 12v power supply and either a 12" radiator fan or an array of 60mm fans I plan to use. Also have upsized wiring and will mount OSB on wall and putting additional water separators mounted to wall. Maybe plumb intake outside with some additional muffling.



I thought about using air conditioner coils but was worried about restriction. The baseboard heaters no doubt work well. Definitely put a water separator after whatever cooler type you use. Mine has an auto drain and dumps water after each cycle.