Nice looking setup. It looks like it is a 1 pass deal as hot air goes in the top header, down all the fin pipes to the bottom header to the filter.
Mine is a multi pass as it has to go thru each fin tube so keeps getting cooler as it moves.


You can use a house box fan, they are cheap, or 2 in front to that cooler and it will help a lot. You can have them wired so when the compressor starts they start or when the main power to the compressor is turned on the fans run.
I was plugging the fans in when I turned the main power on to the compressor.


Is that setup in a compressor shed and if so how hot does it get? Maybe a vent on 1 side wall and a fan on another to run off a stat. When the room gets too hot the the fan starts and pulls cool air across the compressor & cooler.
Dave ----
Dave ----

 

I want a compact fan setup on it, will be wired either direct in pressure switch or off a relay to run when pump is turning. It is single pass, but a pretty big cooler (24"x12") with large tubes so no restriction. Located in corner of an approx 20x27 garage, not enclosed.

After one cycle from empty with everything at 64* my temps are:
Head out: 310*
Cooler in: 292*
Cooler out: 88*
Tank in: 84*

After long continuous use it seems to max out with the water separator at 130*. Way better than no cooler pumping 300* saturated air into the tank, but too hot for the separator to be as effective as possible. Once I get a some airflow it should drop significantly under sustained use. I expect the tank itself will remain near ambient temp then out of that through a flex hose to a large pipe/riser and to filter/separator/regulator setup.

 

I did some planning, cutting and threading on my pipe today. I forget my phone so I dont have any progress pics. I had a big hoard stash of 1/2" NPT fittings. There were plenty of 90's, T's and street 90's. I didnt have any close nipples, but had every other size on Earth besides that. I had no couplers either. I ended up spending around $20 on parts. A plumber buddy of mine suggested that since I was using NPT on air that I use teflon tape with a coat of dope on top of that. I was using Rector Seal T +2 that has the teflon in it.I set it up with a long drain tube right where the line is going to come out of the condenser. That should catch the water before it enters the system.

Hopefully pics soon.

Ok, so here is a question. My reservoir is going to be about ten foot down stream from the condenser. I was considering using only one of it's ports to tie it into the system. However, it dawned on me that it would act as a big moisture separator if I used both. Does that make sense or am I looking at it wrong?

 

Sounds like a good start. And the dope plus tape is the way to go as it'll seal well.

 

Any replies would be appreciated.

 

I can't imagine using anything but Rectorseal #5 on black iron (unless it's gas, and then Block)


Condensation is going to happen when the air drops below the dew point.
That's why refrigerated dryers work so well.
Plumbing the second tank as a trap will get the last of it, except what's going to form when the pressure and temp drop at the tool..

 

Brandon - I missed your question. Yes, I think using both ports on the tank would be a good approach. But, you will have to drain the tank frequently to get the water out.

 

Rector Seal #5 is probably the go to sealant for anything petroleum related. It is good for up to 2600 psi of gases. However, it is a mess to work with. I have clothing that still has that stuff on it.
RectorSeal® No. 5® Number 5 - RectorSeal
The Rectorseal T+2 is good for 2000 psi of gases. It is nowhere near as messy to deal with and it is supplemented with PTFE.
RectorSeal® T Plus 2® - RectorSeal

RectorSeal® T Plus 2® Product Datasheet

They are both good products. I just like the T+2 because it isnt a mess to deal with.

 

Yes it is 'messy'
I guess I'm not only set in my ways (if something works, don't mess with it) but I'm a bit of a mess myself.

Maybe I should try the teflon fortified stuff if I ever have call for threaded pipe other than steam..

 

I have a Loctite product I am going to use on my haudraulic lines for my log splitter. It was recommended to me by a boiler maker.

 

Anerobics are a good answer for high pressure hydraulics.
I can see going broke if you used them for all the tapered threads in a plumbing system.
Besides, you would have to throughly clean every nipple and threaded fitting.

 

I need to go buy another stick of 1/2" schedule 40 steel pipe. I probably have enough to finish , but I would have more joints than I want. So far I havent spent hardly anything on it. The electric is the expensive part. I have to run close to 75' of 6/2 MC from the load center over to where I need power. The compressor only needs #12 AWG , but a buddy of mine had a lot of #10 AWG MC he gave me. So the compressor will get the 10 gauge, but my welder needs something that will handle 45 amps and 240 volts. That is where the #6 comes in.

The electric plan is this:

I am wiring up the compressor and a stick welder. The compressor has no on and off switch now. Also, keep in mind the load center is not on my side of the shop. My buddy would give me a key to his side, but the issue with that is he has already had two theft attempts by his terminated employees. Although he would give me a key to his side I dont want it in case something ever does come up missing. I just dont want to be a suspect for any reason. To remedy the switch on the compressor I am using a fusible disconnect with a switch on it. I am using a fusible disconnect with a switch on it for the welder too. I am going to use a 50 amp breaker in the panel. The compressor is using a 30 amp disconnect with 20 amp Edison Base fuses . However, the welder has to have a 60 amp disconnect that has 45 amp R type fuses in it. According to code the wire has to be sized for the maximum amp rating of the disconnect. So #8 wouldnt do that. It would be fine for what I am doing , but not code. I dont want to be shut down from a tripped breaker on the other side of the shop I have no access to in a pinch. So this is why I went 45 amp fuses. I want the weakest link that will be more than suitable for what I am doing on my side so I can deal with the resetting of the of the circuit. The compressor socket is rated for 20 amps and fused at 20 amps , but the compressor only requires 15 amp. The welder socket is good for 50 amps , fused at 45 and the welder will probably only spike to 43 or 44 amps when lighting the arc . According to what I read the 43 or 44 amp spike should only occur if the welder is turned all the way up which will probably never happen.

 

You have a well thought out plan. And, doing things to code is absolutely the way to go. Otherwise, if you ever have a fire they'll say the wiring was the problem.

Sounds like you are getting there.

 

I just hit alt 248 and somehow just lost a lengthy paragraph. Maybe some other time guys.

 

Been there, done that. And that's a good time to quit. Night.