Best block for a build?
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2014
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Best block for a build?
Ok, so I am looking around for an engine to start a build on (I'm aiming for reliability and as good of power as I can get with that) to eventually go into my 86 F250, and I'm trying to figure out what the best base is. I've read all sorts of opinions from:
late 6.9 for the thicker walls
7.3 for later parts
7.3 turbo for some beefier construction
On the down side for each I've read:
6.9 is bad for smaller headbolt/stud size
7.3 is bad for thinner walls
7.3 turbo is bad for thinner walls and harder to source pistons
I'm looking at putting quite a bit of money (maybe 10K total) into the engine and I want to start with the best basis, so what is the current consensus regarding the best block to start with?
Or am I better off getting a 96 or 97 powerstroke and dealing with adding in a computer? (I want the bullnose body style and interior no matter what)
late 6.9 for the thicker walls
7.3 for later parts
7.3 turbo for some beefier construction
On the down side for each I've read:
6.9 is bad for smaller headbolt/stud size
7.3 is bad for thinner walls
7.3 turbo is bad for thinner walls and harder to source pistons
I'm looking at putting quite a bit of money (maybe 10K total) into the engine and I want to start with the best basis, so what is the current consensus regarding the best block to start with?
Or am I better off getting a 96 or 97 powerstroke and dealing with adding in a computer? (I want the bullnose body style and interior no matter what)
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 445
Likes: 6
From: western Oregon
You want a 7.3 ... you didn't say how much power you are looking for... I looked into several Engines before going with the 7.3.. I found a wrecked 94 truck that some one had already got the turbo Parts off and the cluster was gone so I'm not sure the miles but the cylinders were in good shape and there was green coolant in it when pulled it. just cut the tiny ridge and honed it. Just look for a beat up 93 or 94 and buy it for the engine and parts. I looked for 2wd beaters because they usually had no turbo and all the Engines in 93 and later where the good blocks. you don't need the Turbo rotating assembly to make power.. I'm of the opinion the heavier rods and rist pins just stress the Rod bearings. If you are going for monster power you can go with modified 7.3 power stroke rods and bearings.
Turbo pistons with the upgraded ring type.. If you do all that it would be a waste not to go with the full R&D treatment. you will have the best IDI money can Buy.. If I had your budget that's what I would do.. my 2 cents..
Turbo pistons with the upgraded ring type.. If you do all that it would be a waste not to go with the full R&D treatment. you will have the best IDI money can Buy.. If I had your budget that's what I would do.. my 2 cents..
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,264
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i love my IDI's but for power, its hard to beat a powerstroke.
if you dont mind wiring and computers, id say PSD.
i put 7k into my 93 IDIT
and im building a PSD currently.
im 5k into it, and have a complete lowerend
new rods, ceramic coated pistons and tool steel head studs.
i suspect another 5-6k and it will be done.
heads are at the shop now.
when its done the PSD will be superior to my IDI, for the simple fact that
at the flip of a switch i can go from getting decent fuel economy, to throwin close to 700 ft lbs out of it.
the biggest downfall for the PSD is the computer and the price of things.
and when the EMP hits, well the IDI may still run?
if you dont mind wiring and computers, id say PSD.
i put 7k into my 93 IDIT
and im building a PSD currently.
im 5k into it, and have a complete lowerend
new rods, ceramic coated pistons and tool steel head studs.
i suspect another 5-6k and it will be done.
heads are at the shop now.
when its done the PSD will be superior to my IDI, for the simple fact that
at the flip of a switch i can go from getting decent fuel economy, to throwin close to 700 ft lbs out of it.
the biggest downfall for the PSD is the computer and the price of things.
and when the EMP hits, well the IDI may still run?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 884
Likes: 7
With your budget if you want added security you could sleeve a 7.3 and have the best of both worlds. The button that controls fuel economy and power for the idi is the "gas" pedal! Yes the PSD has an advantage in the aftermarket but both are decent platforms. 10k could probably get 500hp with either motor.
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Senior User
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From what I'm seeing, it looks like the powerstrokes can get a little more power safely, but they also seem to have quite a few more failure modes. Right now I am leaning more towards a IDIT block to start with, but I keep having second thoughts.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,014
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,554
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From: Northern Arizona
The latest "best" 7.3L block casting number is 10809000C3. This is the one people are calling the "turbo" block... but it was not specific to the factory turbo engine. It is just the block used in 93/94. I pulled a 7.3 NA block from a 94 U-haul van and it is a C3 block. The 1992 and down 7.3 blocks are 10809000C1. While the C3 blocks are said to be heavier, there is nothing you can physically measure to substantiate this. If you find one, great. If not, any of the 7.3L blocks should be just fine. Justin pretzled up some NA rods inside of a 1988 C1 block with 400/800 dyno'd and was pushing far more than that when the rods went. The older 7.3 blocks are NOT weak. The main thing is to check the condition of the cylinder walls. Have it sonic tested and sleeve it if there are problems.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 884
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Sleeve it and it's better than the 6.9 in every way, from head bolt size to oil squirters.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,554
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From: Northern Arizona
If you want you can sleeve that 7.3 block down to a 6.9 bore. I did some research on the thicker sleeves to do it and called some shops and they said they can do it. Just be aware that the precombustion chambers in the 7.3 heads are proportionate to the 7.3L displacement, so reducing it to 6.9 liters lowers the static compression ratio slightly. Just something to think about.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,944
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Wichever one doesnt have headbolts broke off in it... But honestly. If the machine shop isnt able to save my uber low miles block. I will be talking to them about re-drilling the block on a 6.9 to 1/2", and punching it .030" over. What sucks about that, is you have to run the small wrist pin, which requires bushing the rods.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 597
Likes: 2
From: Prague Czech Republic
Well Mike if u are patient, I think I might be able to take care of you problem
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