Hello everyone, I own a 2001 Ford F-250 superduty supercab long bed XLT. The problem that I have is that my power mirrors don't work properly. The driver side mirror goes up and down but no side to side and the passenger mirror goes side to side but no up or down. I have replaced the mirrors as well as the fuse and the switch. My mirrors use the old connection which has three wires blue, red, yellow for the driver side and purple, gree, yellow for the passenger side. I have asked many mechanics and they have no clue as to why is doing that since I have replaced pretty much all of the components that normally go bad. I just ordered a new switch just to make sure that is not the switch that I got that maybe was defective. Anybody has any tips? Ideas? Please help. Thank you and happy new year.

 

I had the same problem with my 2001 f250, I took the switch out of the panel and unplugged it then sprayed it with electronic cleaner, plugged it back in and worked great till I sold it. Hope this it helpful.

 

I will try it tomorrow I really hope that it works. Will let you know how it works. Thank you for the quick reply.

 

+1 for cleaning the terminals. If all else fails, the switch is super common and should be cake to find in a salvage yard. Any 2000 Thunderbird/Escort/Windstar shares the same switch as our trucks, part number from Ford is F65Z-17-B67-6AB. Or if you prefer, a new one is $15 from Rock Auto

 

I tried putting the electric spray as well as replacing the switch for my power mirrors and I still have the problem lol I really don't know what else to do. Help please? Thank you beforehand.

 

Try connecting power directly to the mirror wires, jumping the switch and see if that rules out the switch.

 

Tried switch on another car and works so far I have, bought 2 switches the mirrors are brand new(old ones did the same thing) I'm thinking maybe there is a problem with the wires. I find it rare that I only have three wires on each mirror and not four. If I could know which wire does what I could know what color of wire is bad or missing. Thank you

 

Yes it is rather odd on two Reversing motor circuits to have the grounds tied together. Since each direction on the switch is a momentary button, it works fine though. Here are the wire colors along with their pin numbers at the switch from my 1997 FSM. It should be the same for 2001:

Driver's side: Dark Blue (7), Red (4), Yellow (6)
Passenger Side: Pink (8), Dark Green (3), Yellow (6)

On the switch, Pin 1 is power from the 5A Fuse (Orange/Light Green), Pin 2 is illumination from the rheostat (Light Blue/Red), and Pin 5 is Ground (Black). Since vertical control is working in one mirror and horizontal is working in the other one, it is getting power and the switch is working.

Have you noticed any other circuits misbehaving, such as the Driver's window's One-touch system, the Main Light Switch (specifically, the fog lights) or the Lock/Unlock system? The ground point for all of these is shared, along with a BUNCH of other things. It is #G200 in the passenger side kick panel and has two ring terminals. Might not be the exact root of the problem, but corroded grounds make circuits get funky. It would explain why my driver's lock actuator isn't moving sufficiently far in either direction, how vertical control on my mirrors isn't working, and how my truck is kind of iffy with its 4wd (Transfer Case Shift Relay). All of these systems and a bunch more are grounded here. I compiled a ground chart last night to help pin down my truck's electrical maladies and each of the affected circuits share a ground.

For example, my headlights & fog lights were dead when I got the truck. So I cleaned G103 and all of these items started working better:
TD P { margin-bottom: 0in; }P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; } Washer Fluid Level Switch, Left Front Park/Turn Signal Light, Left Fog Light, Right Fog Light, Right Headlight, Right Front Park/Turn Signal Light,Hybrid Cooling Fan, Air Compressor Motor and Vent Solenoid (Pin 2), Front Air Fill Solenoid, Front Gate Solenoid, Air Suspension Compressor Relay (Pin C), Compressor Motor & Vent Solenoid [LG/R]


Repeat for G104 (Both ring terminal) and these things improved too:

4WABS Relay, PCM Power Relay, Brake Fluid Level Indicator Switch, Left Headlight, Fuel Pump Assembly, Left Rear Air Suspension Solenoid, Right Rear Air Suspension Solenoid, Rear Air Fill Solenoid
TD P { margin-bottom: 0in; }P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; } Right Front Running Board Light, Right Rear Running Board Light, Left Front Running Board Light, Left Rear Running Board Light
TD P { margin-bottom: 0in; }P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; } Washer Pump Relay (Pin 4), Rear Washer Pump Relay (Pin 4), Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay (Pin 85), Trailer Tow Right Turn Relay (Pin 2), Trailer Tow Left Turn Relay (Pin 2), Trailer Tow Running Light Relay (Pin 2), Trailer Tow Back-Up Light Relay (Pin 2), Cooling Fan Relay (Pin 2), Overhead Trip Computer (OTC) Module (Pin 12), 4-Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) Module
G200 has the greatest number of items running through it, seems logical that it would be the first to display odd behavior due to corrosion.

Clean it up, make it shiny and rule it out of the whole equation. Plus, it's free