When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Guess I haven't had to many older 4x4 trucks. I'll write what happened then someone clue me in why it didn't work.
I was leaving a parking lot and I saw all the snow at the exit. So I flipped the switch in my late 1999 to 4x4 high. The light came on in the dash so I figured I am in 4x4. I got stuck, the reall wheels turning but not the front. Talk about embarrassing. Here I am in this big 4x4 truck and I got stuck in this puny amount of snow. I was finally able to back out and go a different way. So why did my 4x4 not work?
My truck does seem to have these manual "hubs" on the front. What are they for/do? Is this something I have to turn every time I want 4x4? Can I leave them turned on all winter as I will intermittently need 4x4 in town. I've never had to mess with hubs so have no clue if what I am asking is even correct. I just want my 44 to work when I need it.
Sounds like you probably have a vacuum leak on the auto hubs. Here is a link about servicing them. First I would suggest turning them in manually and verifying your 4x4 works as expected. Then you can diagnose your vacuum system.
A little more information needs to be had here. I'm going to guess that you are not the first owner of the truck and that is a new to you truck? Regardless of what you have you can manually activate your hubs at the wheels. About a 1/4 turn in the clockwise direction (clockwise to lock, "lock" in common in a good way to remember that) should do the trick. It is possible that they are frozen and won't turn at all. That should get you out of that parking lot with all of those Dodge and Chevy truck owners watching. Then you need to find out if you have manual hubs installed or failing vacuum operated hubs. If they are manual then you have to activate them manually. If they are failed vacuum then you need to chase that problem. And, yes you can leave them locked in for the season, many drivers do that.
From what I can make out, those are the original "auto locking" hubs. The one pictured is in the auto position, if you rotate it about 1/4 turn clockwise (as mentioned above) that will lock this hub in. Same with the other side.
Looks like it is time to put manual hubs in or go through and R&R your autolock system. Some people prefer to go the manual route, as then you know whether they are locked or unlocked. Myself I went with R&R'ing the autolock system, I like the feature and it works good when maintained.
I remember this way "lock is like a clock". So, turning the dial in the direction of a clock will lock the hub. I took my hubs out to clean and lube them when I first bought the truck. They didn't have a problem before that, but I am sure the service didn't hurt either.
There are quite a few "how to" instructions out there, including one on Guzzles page if I remember correctly.
Well I will switch them to lock and hope they work. It's too cold for me to mess with now so it's on my Spring "to do" list now. After work today I'll turn them and test them out.
I rotated those hubs clockwise and engaged the 4x4 and it worked correctly. So this means the vacuum line or seal is possibly bad? If so it's something I will attempt to fix in the spring. My spring list is starting to get rather long...
You have another issue. If there is a vacuum leak, you likely don't have floor or vent heat - just defrost. A temporary fix is to go to the auto parts store and pick up some vacuum caps. Separate the vacuum line at the wheel well (upper part of the tube) and cap the plastic tip. I used a machine screw to plug the hose and made sure the tube was zip-tied to prevent hitting/rubbing other moving parts.
When it warms up and you have time, you can use a Mity Vac with a gauge to test each hub - or just replace the hoses as a first step to troubleshoot.
You have another issue. If there is a vacuum leak, you likely don't have floor or vent heat - just defrost. A temporary fix is to go to the auto parts store and pick up some vacuum caps. Separate the vacuum line at the wheel well (upper part of the tube) and cap the plastic tip. I used a machine screw to plug the hose and made sure the tube was zip-tied to prevent hitting/rubbing other moving parts.
When it warms up and you have time, you can use a Mity Vac with a gauge to test each hub - or just replace the hoses as a first step to troubleshoot.
I hadn't noticed that since I have only been using defrost in this truck so far. I haven't had to drive the truck far enough or long enough to try a different heat option.
I hadn't noticed that since I have only been using defrost in this truck so far. I haven't had to drive the truck far enough or long enough to try a different heat option.
Your feets will get cold running solely on defrost. The vacuum pump works off of the battery so if you turn your key on, let it sit about 30 seconds for the vacuum pump to work and switch your dash **** from defrost to feet, to dash and back to defrost or feet you should hear the flapper in the heater box working and deflecting the air flow to it's respective outlets. If it stays on defrost your leak is more than your pump can keep up with. My pump is bad, never shuts off but it makes enough vacuum to work the flapper. New pump seems to be about $140 for the OEM.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.