2007 hot no start
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2007 hot no start
good day everyone!
so here is my issue today. lol. jump in my warm truck head out anywhere and go inside after shuting the truck off. come back 15 min later and ya she wont start. crank all day long don't make any difference. wait till the oil temp comes down to 60 deg celcius and boom she starts like nothing is wrong. from everything I have read and that's a lot since this has been going on for 2-3 weeks, seems possible to start with the stc fitting. seems to have only become an issue since I did an engine oil flush and oil change. the truck was new to me in early august. truck has 310000 km. the oil change was done mid oct. my issue started once the temps started dropping to -0 deg cel over night. I don't cold start now that its -10 or colder always plugged in for 3-4 hours before heading to work. any suggestions would b appreciated. thanks
so here is my issue today. lol. jump in my warm truck head out anywhere and go inside after shuting the truck off. come back 15 min later and ya she wont start. crank all day long don't make any difference. wait till the oil temp comes down to 60 deg celcius and boom she starts like nothing is wrong. from everything I have read and that's a lot since this has been going on for 2-3 weeks, seems possible to start with the stc fitting. seems to have only become an issue since I did an engine oil flush and oil change. the truck was new to me in early august. truck has 310000 km. the oil change was done mid oct. my issue started once the temps started dropping to -0 deg cel over night. I don't cold start now that its -10 or colder always plugged in for 3-4 hours before heading to work. any suggestions would b appreciated. thanks
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Joined: Aug 2015
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From: NW IA
Read up on the air test for the 6.0, might be stand pipes or dummy plugs.......might be no need to take the HPOP cover off just yet. With that many miles the STC might have been done already without your prior knowledge
Never assume anything on a 6.0 would be my suggestion
I would also suggest not cranking more than 20 seconds at a crack, and then 10 min cool down period unless you have access to cheap starters and injectors. Need to keep oil and fuel at the injectors on these engines or they get cranky.
I'm sure the guys with later builds can add some things.
Do you have a way to read live data? Like a Scangauge or TorquePro for android? Pretty important you are able to do this.
Never assume anything on a 6.0 would be my suggestion
I would also suggest not cranking more than 20 seconds at a crack, and then 10 min cool down period unless you have access to cheap starters and injectors. Need to keep oil and fuel at the injectors on these engines or they get cranky.
I'm sure the guys with later builds can add some things.
Do you have a way to read live data? Like a Scangauge or TorquePro for android? Pretty important you are able to do this.
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yes I can read live data. I am using a sct programmer monitor with a live sync where I can c things in real time on my laptop as well as the display. I was thinking of picking up the auto enginuity software soon. I only cranked crazy the first time it happened. now if she don start I wait till the oil cools and like magic she starts fine. lol
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From: NW IA
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lol changed out the ipr valve a week ago. helped a bit but still have the issue when she is hot. the old one looked fine no issue with the screen being damaged. that's why I was leaning towards the stc fitting even though 2007 was supposed to have the updated one already.
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is there any chance a bad cluster could b causing this issue. when I first got this ruck I had a dome light issue caused by the cluster. put in a used one and all seemed well. about two weeks later his hot no start problem came about. for the last week the cluster just looses power for no apparent reason. so today I changed out the cluster for the original just for ****s and giggles and it has not had a issue all day. puzzling that's for sure. any thoughts would b helpfull thanks
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From: Virginia Beach VA
What are the live readings for ICP when cranking? IPR % and ICP voltage?
Needs 500+ICP, needs .9+ ICP volts and IPR is what it is. You replaced the IPR and that didn't work, $200 you didn't need to spend.
The cluster is not the issue, it's low pressure. Oil builds pressure easier when cold. Dummy plugs, stand pipes, injector o-rings.....
Get on with an air test before you spend another dime.
Watch a video by Diesel Tech Ron on you tube for hot no Start or air test.
Needs 500+ICP, needs .9+ ICP volts and IPR is what it is. You replaced the IPR and that didn't work, $200 you didn't need to spend.
The cluster is not the issue, it's low pressure. Oil builds pressure easier when cold. Dummy plugs, stand pipes, injector o-rings.....
Get on with an air test before you spend another dime.
Watch a video by Diesel Tech Ron on you tube for hot no Start or air test.
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when the symptoms present themselves the voltage is 10 volts. icp pressure hits 340-350psi. cant remember the ipr off the top of my head. and the ipr valve up here in Canada was almost 500$ with the stupid special socket. from the videos I watched the air test doesn't tell u anything but if the ipr is leakin or not functioning. I didn't see one that came up with a stand pipe issue or dummy plug.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
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From: Virginia Beach VA
that ICP is to low.
There is also an air test fitting that goes into the IPR location... any air you hear is a leak if using that location to inject the shop air.
The air test is to find a leak, not a BAD IPR, although it will do that as well. You can also pull the ICP and look in the hole, it should be full of oil... if not, its draining back to the pan.... that's a leak.
Leaks happen at the dummy plugs, stand pipes, injector o-rings or STC fitting. Once the IPR is commanded closed, if air is passing by a sealing location, you should be able to hear it easily as long as the IPR is good and the valve closed. The air test is useless with a bad IPR valve.
There is also an air test fitting that goes into the IPR location... any air you hear is a leak if using that location to inject the shop air.
The air test is to find a leak, not a BAD IPR, although it will do that as well. You can also pull the ICP and look in the hole, it should be full of oil... if not, its draining back to the pan.... that's a leak.
Leaks happen at the dummy plugs, stand pipes, injector o-rings or STC fitting. Once the IPR is commanded closed, if air is passing by a sealing location, you should be able to hear it easily as long as the IPR is good and the valve closed. The air test is useless with a bad IPR valve.
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thanks. I realize its too low. getting frustrated with people saying my truck is junk. I realize this truck wasn't maintained well but that's in the past. I take good care of my vehicles. my 98 suburban has 350000 km and runs like new, but I am the only person that works on it. I just watched a video on rons page about the dummy plugs and stand pipes. looks like I will be heading to the local dealer for some parts and spending some more quality time under the hood in the cold. lol going to pull the icp sensor and go grab a fitting to do the air test. sounds like another 500$ to go. thanks for the advice I wil post my findings later after I do the test. oh by the way HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!
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