When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I relate mine a couple months ago and once it started and I drove it, I still had a few starts for the next couple days that took as long as 6-8 seconds. I think it just took the nipple cups a little while to get seated and sealed up good. Now it fires off in a second or so. I didn't start it with the valve covers off though.
I dunno, Sounds like its either the bullet proof nipple cups or they just haven't seated. The only other thing I can think of is the orings in the injectors not being placed between that spacer thing and the c clip, but you said you did it correctly. Wish I could think of something else for you. When you find out, please let us know what it was.
Do you have a way to read live data?
Curious what your ICP and IPR are saying once it's warmed up, also curious how you ruled out the HPOP. This would also cause a no hot start.
The nipple cup seals in the rail can take a little time to seal and any air won't help matters any.
Did you do an air leak test to rule anything else out?
Do you have a way to read live data?
Curious what your ICP and IPR are saying once it's warmed up, also curious how you ruled out the HPOP. This would also cause a no hot start.
The nipple cup seals in the rail can take a little time to seal and any air won't help matters any.
Did you do an air leak test to rule anything else out?
Live data I don't have then again I can't totally warm up I did run for about 10 minutes oil rail did get warm to touch to get nipple cups to seal and prime oil rail.
only reason I changed nipple cups is because I thought maybe they were damaged. All Injectors bleed before I changed nipples same issue before and after nipple change.
As far as hpop and no hot start can't even get to that point yet valve cover off till I can get oil bleed to stop.
Live data I don't have then again I can't totally warm up I did run for about 10 minutes oil rail did get warm to touch to get nipple cups to seal and prime oil rail.
only reason I changed nipple cups is because I thought maybe they were damaged. All Injectors bleed before I changed nipples same issue before and after nipple change.
As far as hpop and no hot start can't even get to that point yet valve cover off till I can get oil bleed to stop.
Can you be more specific? When you say bleed do you mean it's losing prime or is there oil bleeding off during engine running? If so, it's coming from the oil rail or the tops of the injectors? It might be hard to tell which at that point unless it's obviously just blowing out a steady stream and you can pinpoint with certainty where it's coming from.
at any rate, you need a scangauge or something to read live data.
Without that, for the most part the whole thing is a crapshoot. Doesn't matter if the engine is 0*, still need live data to diagnose things.
That is the oil coming out of the top of the injectors not a leak
That is the oil coming out of the top of the injectors not a leak. Air test it.
We get a call about once a month from someone that thinks they can see a leak by running with the valve covers off. Oil is ejected out of the top of the injectors from the two holes on top each and every time the spool valve opens. It is not a leak. Air test it
That is the oil coming out of the top of the injectors not a leak. Air test it.
We get a call about once a month from someone that thinks they can see a leak by running with the valve covers off. Oil is ejected out of the top of the injectors from the two holes on top each and every time the spool valve opens. It is not a leak. Air test it
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Great point I forgot about that .
I would also add that if you have air on it long enough you might get a leak there as well, even though it's not a leak rather simply the oil being displaced by air once the rail is dry and there is no oil to displace.
I digress........Get a way to read data. We can sit and speculate until the cows come home but without some data while it's cranking, engine running cold and engine warmed up it's hard to nail anything down.
Can you be more specific? When you say bleed do you mean it's losing prime or is there oil bleeding off during engine running? If so, it's coming from the oil rail or the tops of the injectors? It might be hard to tell which at that point unless it's obviously just blowing out a steady stream and you can pinpoint with certainty where it's coming from.
at any rate, you need a scangauge or something to read live data.
Without that, for the most part the whole thing is a crapshoot. Doesn't matter if the engine is 0*, still need live data to diagnose things.
No prime loss but Before I replaced orings I ran truck engine the driver side without valve cover to try to find bad injector oring, there was a tiny splash of oil I'm guessing for spring lubrication after oring replacement each injector pukes a steady stream about a 1/8 diameter of oil from where nipple cup goes in each injector. I'll try looking into a live scan.
That is the oil coming out of the top of the injectors not a leak. Air test it.
We get a call about once a month from someone that thinks they can see a leak by running with the valve covers off. Oil is ejected out of the top of the injectors from the two holes on top each and every time the spool valve opens. It is not a leak. Air test it
I know exactly what your talking about before I replaced orings I ran truck and saw the minimum spatter.
Now each injector pukes 1/8 diameter of continuous oil I'll give air test a shot thou.
Shoot a good clear video ow what your seeing and post it on Youtube and place
the link to that video in your post. Just be sure to set the video as public and not
private. Also try to get more than a 15 sec shot.
I know exactly what your talking about before I replaced orings I ran truck and saw the minimum spatter.
Now each injector pukes 1/8 diameter of continuous oil I'll give air test a shot thou.
You can't diagnose a high pressure oil leak without an air test. Live data that includes the ICP_Desired PID can help, but air test is still what you need to be doing.
Running the engine with the valve covers off not only makes a huge mess(because the injectors are constantly shooting oil out the top of them), but it is nearly impossible to even see the top of the injector with the oil rail torqued down. There just isn't enough room. Believe me, we have walked a Ford master tech through this exact same process. They air tested and sure enough... This mysterious oil streaming from the area on top of the injector is in fact coming from the injector itself, by design.
An air test is the only way to truly tell if you have an hpo leak.
If the truck is running, chances are, you don't have a leak.
If you have had the nipple cups out multiple times we should probably send you a new set of O-rings. Send me a PM with your full name and address and I'll send you a new set. I don't want a compromised set of our o-rings on the road. The nipples are lifetime warranty also.
I can send you the links to the parts for the air test setup if you want? You can make it for under $20
creator, what am I missing here? Do you make the top o-rings for the rail, injector or both?
Only asking as you refer to his o-rings as yours.
I'm assuming your concerns at this point is an o-ring(s) that might be cut from repeated install/removal. That is a job that takes patience to go in at the right angle.
creator, what am I missing here? Do you make the top o-rings for the rail, injector or both?
Only asking as you refer to his o-rings as yours.
I'm assuming your concerns at this point is an o-ring(s) that might be cut from repeated install/removal. That is a job that takes patience to go in at the right angle.
Yes the orings and nipple cups are theirs. HHC diesel is them,, Corey is creator, and Mark is robbinthahood. I'm assuming the op purchased their parts. They have a new design of nipple cup. You should check it out.
creator, what am I missing here? Do you make the top o-rings for the rail, injector or both?
Only asking as you refer to his o-rings as yours.
I'm assuming your concerns at this point is an o-ring(s) that might be cut from repeated install/removal. That is a job that takes patience to go in at the right angle.
Yep I'm the co-owner of HHC Diesel.
We aren't sponsors yet so we can't push our products.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
Happy New Year 2016 is almost here 
