No start. I'm lost.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 543
Likes: 3
From: Gilmer, TX.
No start. I'm lost.
Finally got everything buttoned up, and truck was going for it's first drive today. Started cranking, and it just barely tries to start, and then nothing until I cycle the key again. Doesn't even give me a full Vroom, Just like a Vro- and then back to cranking.
I've had it started and running a few times, so something has changed.
And to add to the fun, something between my tablet, my torque pro app, and my dongle isn't playing nice. Tablet just won't see the dongle. So I get to figure that out too.
I've had it started and running a few times, so something has changed.
And to add to the fun, something between my tablet, my torque pro app, and my dongle isn't playing nice. Tablet just won't see the dongle. So I get to figure that out too.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 543
Likes: 3
From: Gilmer, TX.
It was running great. No secondary filter. Fuel pressure at 50 PSI.
Today, I buttoned up some exhaust leaks, and wired in the extra gauges. Dropped the fuse box out, and plugged in my constant and switched power wires.
Could I have possibly messed something up?
Today, I buttoned up some exhaust leaks, and wired in the extra gauges. Dropped the fuse box out, and plugged in my constant and switched power wires.
Could I have possibly messed something up?
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 543
Likes: 3
From: Gilmer, TX.
I don't know what vref is. I needed a constant power source, a switched power source, a ground, and a switched lead off the lights.
I dropped the fuse box, and on the back side of the box was a rectangular area with 6 tabs in it. It looked like a plug would go in there, but there was no plug. My tuck is an XL, so it's entirely possible that this hole is meant for an option my truck doesn't have. The plastic around this box was purple.
The tabs were in 3 pairs, 2 pairs hot all the time, and 1 pair switched.
This is where I connected my constant and switched leads.
I dropped the fuse box, and on the back side of the box was a rectangular area with 6 tabs in it. It looked like a plug would go in there, but there was no plug. My tuck is an XL, so it's entirely possible that this hole is meant for an option my truck doesn't have. The plastic around this box was purple.
The tabs were in 3 pairs, 2 pairs hot all the time, and 1 pair switched.
This is where I connected my constant and switched leads.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 0
Hey Jeff,
I don't have a direct answer to your problem, but I would unplug the gauges you wired and check the wires going into the fuse box to make sure one didn't get pulled loose during all your work. In other words try to get everything back as close to how it was when it was running. Minus the fixed exhaust as that should've had no bearing on the crank/no crank situation. On a side thought unplug the dongle it may have failed in some freak way, long shot at best but you never know with electronic gremlins.
I don't have a direct answer to your problem, but I would unplug the gauges you wired and check the wires going into the fuse box to make sure one didn't get pulled loose during all your work. In other words try to get everything back as close to how it was when it was running. Minus the fixed exhaust as that should've had no bearing on the crank/no crank situation. On a side thought unplug the dongle it may have failed in some freak way, long shot at best but you never know with electronic gremlins.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 20
Finally got everything buttoned up, and truck was going for it's first drive today. Started cranking, and it just barely tries to start, and then nothing until I cycle the key again. Doesn't even give me a full Vroom, Just like a Vro- and then back to cranking.
I've had it started and running a few times, so something has changed.
And to add to the fun, something between my tablet, my torque pro app, and my dongle isn't playing nice. Tablet just won't see the dongle. So I get to figure that out too.
I've had it started and running a few times, so something has changed.
And to add to the fun, something between my tablet, my torque pro app, and my dongle isn't playing nice. Tablet just won't see the dongle. So I get to figure that out too.
or if you have access to another 6.0 swap the relays. Sounds like the contacts are burnt and or pitted. That is why when you cycle the key it starts. I had the same problem. Would cycle the key several times and the relay would finally make enough contact to start.
Ed
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Strokin Okie
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,883
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From: Oklahoma
Did you get it going Jeff? Sorry other than figuring out the gauge connectivity first to know what is going on, I've got nothing... My Dashboss FP transducer requires a 5v ref source. I was hoping that would be a simple fix for you...
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 543
Likes: 3
From: Gilmer, TX.
Nope. I had to go to work. I work a rotating hitch, so it'll be a couple weeks before I'm home again. I'm going to drop the fuse box, and see if I didn't loosen something going to the OBDII plug.
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 5
Before you go too far in all of this, I'd check the FICM output voltage. You can either do this with gauges or with a digital volt meter. More information is at:
17. Can I test my FICM to ensure that it is the culprit?
Hope this helps!
17. Can I test my FICM to ensure that it is the culprit?
Hope this helps!
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 543
Likes: 3
From: Gilmer, TX.
Before you go too far in all of this, I'd check the FICM output voltage. You can either do this with gauges or with a digital volt meter. More information is at:
17. Can I test my FICM to ensure that it is the culprit?
Hope this helps!
17. Can I test my FICM to ensure that it is the culprit?
Hope this helps!
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 5
Once I get my tablet to talk to the dongle, I will. However, y'all just did the FICM, the batteries are brand new, as is the alternator. Also, I always charge the batteries before starting. (Because it tends to sit for a couple weeks at a time while I'm at work.) I'm thinking I jostled something when I dropped the fuse box.
Did the truck ever start after you got the FICM back from us? The reason I ask is that it is INCREDIBLY common for us to get a call following a rebuild with an indication of a no start. Invariably, it is caused by those silly connectors not being plugged in all the way (despite sure LOOKING like they are in...). So...if it has never started since our rebuild, consider unplugging the module fully and plugging it back in. Every single module that leaves our shop gets physically installed in at least one of our 6.0's to ensure functionality in addition to the quite significant stress testing we do on the bench.
Let us know what you find!
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