No start condition
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,862
Likes: 44
From: Tooele, UT
No start condition
ok guys need some help. yesterday when i started my truck up for the first time it started but did a lot of loping and the idle would go up then down so i kicked on my high idle and it ran up and held for a sec then went down and up and eventually cleared out and ran fine the rest of the day.
this morning when i went out to start it all it would do was crank and not even try to start. i checked the fuel pump fuse and pulled my secondary fuel filter and turned the key on to make sure i was getting fuel. the bowl filled up but i am still unsure as to how much pressure i have.
i am not at home and don't have all my tools so i am very limited as to how much in depth troubleshooting i can do. any ideas on what steps i need to take next? i am scheduled to go home on wednesday so i need to try and get this taken care of quickly so i can get home.
this morning when i went out to start it all it would do was crank and not even try to start. i checked the fuel pump fuse and pulled my secondary fuel filter and turned the key on to make sure i was getting fuel. the bowl filled up but i am still unsure as to how much pressure i have.
i am not at home and don't have all my tools so i am very limited as to how much in depth troubleshooting i can do. any ideas on what steps i need to take next? i am scheduled to go home on wednesday so i need to try and get this taken care of quickly so i can get home.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 3
From: SW Ohio
If you do not have a monitoring system go to autozone and get a ScanGauge2! Program the X Gauges for the FICM and ICP(IIRC) . These 2 things will tell you if you have enough voltage at the FICM and enough HPOP pressure to start the truck.
The FICM needs more than 45 volts and the HPOP pressure needs to be no less than 500 PSI to start.
The FICM needs more than 45 volts and the HPOP pressure needs to be no less than 500 PSI to start.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 334
Likes: 0
From: McFarland, WI
FICM!FICM!FICM!FICM!FICM!FICM!
Same issue. Same details.
Getting a scan gauge would work great for you but if you are in the middle of nowhere, a sc might not be avail. Or you will ask for one and they will look at you like some Harvard grad student requesting a gin martini at a biker bar. Trust me. Been there and I didn't even go to college! If that's the case ask for a multimeter and lookup FICM test procedure on here. That will get you the same results. Good luck. Hope you get home on time
Same issue. Same details.
Getting a scan gauge would work great for you but if you are in the middle of nowhere, a sc might not be avail. Or you will ask for one and they will look at you like some Harvard grad student requesting a gin martini at a biker bar. Trust me. Been there and I didn't even go to college! If that's the case ask for a multimeter and lookup FICM test procedure on here. That will get you the same results. Good luck. Hope you get home on time
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,862
Likes: 44
From: Tooele, UT
ok so i checked my voltages. key on: 11.8, 11.8, 0, 0 and during crank it's 8, 8, 0, 0.
i pulled the FICM and the solder joints don't look to be cracked around the caps that the tech manual says. everything looks normal to me and i worked on electronics for 4 years. does it matter if there are visual cracks or not?
i pulled the FICM and the solder joints don't look to be cracked around the caps that the tech manual says. everything looks normal to me and i worked on electronics for 4 years. does it matter if there are visual cracks or not?
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
I also had a bad ficm- smoked when cold start and then cel came on followed by a complete no start. R&R w/ a BPD 4-phase unit and engine fired right up. Looked closely at the bad P/S and also found no visible cracks at solder joints. But, the low voltage pointed to a failing unit (perhaps failed components and not solder joints).
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Kinda looks like Bad Batterys to me (In Addition to whatever else might be bad) they shure droped Low Volts during the crank
When you checked the FICM didnt one of the pins Yeild more than 12volts one of them should be around 48Volts maybe Less if the FICM is Bad but definatly more than 12volts
When you checked the FICM didnt one of the pins Yeild more than 12volts one of them should be around 48Volts maybe Less if the FICM is Bad but definatly more than 12volts
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,263
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
i'd agree with benny too. could be bad batteries. if one of them is on low charge, the truck would take longer to crank. no kidding. i just replaced one of my batteries cos it was leaking. now she's back to firing straight up.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,862
Likes: 44
From: Tooele, UT
My batteries tested fine! I did the repair procedures outlined in the tech folder to the best of my abilities! That lead free solder sucks donkey *****! I know you have to get it hotter but I was afraid of melting my PCB! I did what I could and it helped a lot! I still wasn't able to get the correct voltages but they were high enough to start the truck and get it home! Problem is it has done it again and I'm afraid its bad components this time! I'm just gonna have to send it in again and get it repaired and upgraded! Its gotta be ready to go before Friday! Lol
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,263
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Do u have a scan gauge and did u check ur ficm voltage? Maybe u can check on icp and ipr values? Sorry if I'm out of the loop. Work and kinky thoughts of redheads and blondes have gotten me hot and bothered.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,950
Likes: 510
From: Foothills, CA
Check into FICMrepair.com. He'll do an exchange unit with you and you'd just have to pay for whatever shipping that gets it there the quickest. You should also get set up with some form of monitoring as there's other potential snakes in the grass, so to speak. If you have an Android phone or tablet go with Torque pro by far the best bang for the buck; if you have Apple phone or pad, go with DashBoss, and last on my list would be Scangauge, only because it's the obvious older technology: text based, 4 PIDs per screen and I haven't heard anyone talk about it having any data logging capabilities (it also sounds harder to get set up).
Good luck!
Good luck!
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,862
Likes: 44
From: Tooele, UT
well my voltages are never drop below 48 and KOEO is 48.6 so i'm golden. i do believe i am going to be sending it to FICMrepair.com though so i can get some better solder joints and upgraded components.