At what point are Studs needed?
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2014
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At what point are Studs needed?
My first post in the 6.0 forum 
. Considering a 07 6.0, with under 100,000 miles, and only warranty Oasis shows is a new cooling fan at 24,600 miles.
I have been trying to educate myself about the 6.0 as much as possible. Have owned both Dodge and Duramax trucks in the past. This truck, I assume, has NOT been deleted (have not laid eyes on it yet). If I buy it, I will delete it, and possibly do a preventative Oil Cooler change out along with auxiliary coolant filter install. This will be my everyday vehicle (60+ miles round trip to work and back) and tow vehicle (boats and equipment, never over 9,000#'s). I am rather lite on the throttle. Short of the HG's failing on their own, when should Studding the heads be considered? Thanks.
. Considering a 07 6.0, with under 100,000 miles, and only warranty Oasis shows is a new cooling fan at 24,600 miles.I have been trying to educate myself about the 6.0 as much as possible. Have owned both Dodge and Duramax trucks in the past. This truck, I assume, has NOT been deleted (have not laid eyes on it yet). If I buy it, I will delete it, and possibly do a preventative Oil Cooler change out along with auxiliary coolant filter install. This will be my everyday vehicle (60+ miles round trip to work and back) and tow vehicle (boats and equipment, never over 9,000#'s). I am rather lite on the throttle. Short of the HG's failing on their own, when should Studding the heads be considered? Thanks.
Strokin Okie
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,883
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From: Oklahoma
When they fail will likely be the consensus. If you don't plan on running a tuner you may never have a HG issue. If it were me I would invest in some OBDII gauges to use on the test drive. You maybe able to just drive it and enjoy it for a long time before any repairs are necessary.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: NW IA
^^^^^
What Shane said.......there are a lot of 6.0's running around that have never been or never will need to be studded. If you don't plan to tow over 9k lbs then that is to your advantage as well. With that said, don't be lite on the throttle too much or you might end up with a cranky turbo. The saying among 6.0 owners is "drive it like you stole it", within reason of course. Keeps the vanes/unison rings moving more freely.
What Shane said.......there are a lot of 6.0's running around that have never been or never will need to be studded. If you don't plan to tow over 9k lbs then that is to your advantage as well. With that said, don't be lite on the throttle too much or you might end up with a cranky turbo. The saying among 6.0 owners is "drive it like you stole it", within reason of course. Keeps the vanes/unison rings moving more freely.
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Thank you for the input Shaneb75 and navistarnut. Kinda what I had thought concerning this truck. I do have a scan gauge II, and am currently reading to see how to set it up to check the EOT and ECT on a test drive. My main reason for having a 3/4 ton truck is strictly for when I rent equipment for my side job. Most rental places require a 3/4 ton truck when you rent their equipment and trailer. I use their trailer because it just works better for my purposes.
Still waiting on some info on the truck before deciding, but it is looking good so far. Thanks again!
Still waiting on some info on the truck before deciding, but it is looking good so far. Thanks again!
Hotshot
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From: Here in No. Calif
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Manteca,Ca
Non studded, and dragging anywhere from 900 to 14k on a weekly basis , the biggest gauge set up for me is EOT/ ECT and BST/FMP , like the guys have mentioned keep a close eye on coolant , it will fluctuate so don't over fill thinking your low. And if you do need to topper use distilled water with 50/50 mix Coolant.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Lakeland, Fl
185,000 no studs and mild street and tow tunes. I have been looking for proof that studs provide more clamping force than tty bolts and have yet to find any in over 2 years searching. The advantage with tty bolts is torque accuracy, and with the bolt pattern setup on the 6.0 this is important. With studs the torque is dependent on the accuracy of the torque wrench. Both will stretch and lose clamping force when over temped. Monitor and maintenance is the key.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
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Navistarnut........Just curious why you use the 9000 lbs.? Are you saying the increased load is the key or increased EGT or what? I will soon be upping my horse trailer size to a point where I will see that weight or close to it on a fairly regular basis.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2006
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If you are going to use insane tunes and beat on your truck, ARP studs are the answer to not blowing HGs as many 6.0 owners on this forum have found out. If you install TTY bolts when you replace the HGs, keeping all things equal, you will be replacing HGs again. People have replaced HGs with studs installed and have had problems. Why, because they installed the ARP studs with warped heads.
If you are not going to exceed Fords recommended towing capacity, use no tunes and drive it like a little old lady, then the OEM TTY bolts will probably hold up. The TTY bolts are marginal at best and cannot take the constant pounding and turbo pressures that ARP studs can.
I installed ARP studs as a preventative measure before my HGs blew. I have a SCT street tune and a FICM Atlas 80 tune with all of the other stuff in my sig. My X is awesome and I drive it like I stole it, sometimes, and have had no problems.
Ed
If you are not going to exceed Fords recommended towing capacity, use no tunes and drive it like a little old lady, then the OEM TTY bolts will probably hold up. The TTY bolts are marginal at best and cannot take the constant pounding and turbo pressures that ARP studs can.
I installed ARP studs as a preventative measure before my HGs blew. I have a SCT street tune and a FICM Atlas 80 tune with all of the other stuff in my sig. My X is awesome and I drive it like I stole it, sometimes, and have had no problems.
Ed
Postmaster
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From: NW IA
Good luck with your purchase. Now for the hijack..................
Navistarnut........Just curious why you use the 9000 lbs.? Are you saying the increased load is the key or increased EGT or what? I will soon be upping my horse trailer size to a point where I will see that weight or close to it on a fairly regular basis.
Navistarnut........Just curious why you use the 9000 lbs.? Are you saying the increased load is the key or increased EGT or what? I will soon be upping my horse trailer size to a point where I will see that weight or close to it on a fairly regular basis.
He has only ever replaced the EGR and cleaned the turbo..........nothing else period, bone stock and he is not afraid to put his foot into it.
I would be more concerned about EGT's with a hotter tune since the truck won't be down shifting as often, resulting in higher EGT's
Edit, read Ed's comment above mine for more info^^^^^^^^^^^
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 240
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From: Asheville, NC
If it ain't broke, don't "fix" it! There are many people who might suggest that you have to "bulletproof" (terminology) your truck.
I think about 85% of the reason that these engines need to be studded is because of EGR cooler leakage. If you live in a state without emissions testing on diesels, delete the EGR cooler and drive it! If you have testing, replace the stock cooler with a Bullet Proof EGR cooler from Bullet Proof Diesel in Phoenix, AZ.
Someday if you must remove the heads, then stud them when you do the repair.
I think about 85% of the reason that these engines need to be studded is because of EGR cooler leakage. If you live in a state without emissions testing on diesels, delete the EGR cooler and drive it! If you have testing, replace the stock cooler with a Bullet Proof EGR cooler from Bullet Proof Diesel in Phoenix, AZ.
Someday if you must remove the heads, then stud them when you do the repair.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
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From: Millersville, MD
I bought my 05 brand new. No tuner. Only towed with it (Stock)..a fiver RV that maxed at about 10,500#. Within 25,000 miles my TTY bolts stretched and blew coolant out the bottle. Lucky for me it was under the Ford ESP warranty. Ford replaced the Eng Oil cooler, EGR valve and head gaskets. At my request, they installed studs (at extra cost). Ran it for another few thousand miles and installed an SCT tuner and use mild tunes. That was in 2009. Have never had another problem as far as the engine goes..... My suggestion is if you have to replace the TTY bolts and are thinking of a tuner, put in studs!