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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Sanderson ff427 starter issues

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Old Dec 16, 2015 | 08:13 AM
  #16  
yetiman38237's Avatar
yetiman38237
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 891
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From: Mayfield, KY
Originally Posted by CougarJohn
I don't understand how a toggle switch in the cab combats hard hot starting.
The ignition switch bypasses the pink wire and puts a full 12v to the coil on starting.
Can you explain?
Not really, was trick old guy taught me at the drap strip. If your timing is way high and have lots of compression the motor wants to drag, especially when engine gets hot. If the ignition isn't trying to fire the motor will spin freely, so if you install a break between hot wire and distributor, you can get motor spinning and flip switch and motor will start right up with no drag.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2015 | 08:46 AM
  #17  
orich's Avatar
orich
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Originally Posted by yetiman38237
Not really, was trick old guy taught me at the drap strip. If your timing is way high and have lots of compression the motor wants to drag, especially when engine gets hot. If the ignition isn't trying to fire the motor will spin freely, so if you install a break between hot wire and distributor, you can get motor spinning and flip switch and motor will start right up with no drag.
Aw yeah that should work. Had that problem back in the day with my 55 2d cp with a built 61 gt390 eng. could not run any more then about 8* degrees with 12+ comp ratio. To young then to think of it.
Orich
 
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Old Dec 16, 2015 | 08:50 AM
  #18  
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chiefsfootball
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Originally Posted by GaryKip
That mini starter looks like the way to go. Where did you get that one?
I agree! It looks nice! Where'd ya get that one?
 
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Old Dec 16, 2015 | 09:08 AM
  #19  
orich's Avatar
orich
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Got this mini starter pretty sure form at speed way motors off ebay store. I think it was like $129 with free shipping back in 07 that is. I even warp it with a heat blanket that, I got for the oem starter. But it would not even go between the rear starter bearing plate and the header pipes that's how closes the Header pipes were to my oem starter. And it can be removed with out dropping the header.
Orich


When running a H pipe you'll will find dealing with a welded together system is a B I T C H if not split from the other pipe.
Here's my fix for that.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2015 | 10:30 AM
  #20  
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DLW-70-F100
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 215
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From: Union City, CA
This is what I went with Powermaster XS Torque Starters 9506 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing.
Looks similar to the one orich is using too.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2015 | 10:35 AM
  #21  
yetiman38237's Avatar
yetiman38237
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From: Mayfield, KY
I guess when mine goes out I will have to get one on those. I did manage to finagle the full size starter on when I put headers on. Had to balance both the header and the starter to get them in position where I could get it bolted on. Scratched the tubes up pretty good and was hard to balance with only one hand on it. Easiest way is to unbolt engine mount and lift motor up a little........but who can do that on the side of the road?
 
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